General Questions Place to post your questions that don't fit into one of the specific forums below.

Rear spring help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old December 29th, 2017, 01:19 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
Rear spring help

Hi guys, I’m in the middle of going through troubleshooting my rear suspension noises on my 67 Cutlass. So far I’ve changed out dead air shocks and replaced all the body mounts. I also temporarily removed a sway bar that was missing a bolt. A random banging noise has been eliminated but there is a TON of annoying squeaking! You literally cannot drive the car over 25 mph without going insane. I bought an original chassis manual but the section is not showing me everything. I see that the springs have NO rubber isolater top or bottom. I want to address this, but can someone please tell me WTF is going on in my trunk? What is up with the spring mounting and how is it supposed to be? I can take pics from underneath if needed. Thanks
1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old December 29th, 2017, 01:21 PM
  #2  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
Cutting torch hole?

Factory? Looks like a hack, but why?
1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old December 29th, 2017, 01:39 PM
  #3  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
There are rubber isolators that go on top of the springs.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m.../model/cutlass

Been a while since I did my body mounts, what does the bolt in the trunk holes attach to?
oldcutlass is offline  
Old December 29th, 2017, 02:47 PM
  #4  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
Originally Posted by oldcutlass
There are rubber isolators that go on top of the springs.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m.../model/cutlass

Been a while since I did my body mounts, what does the bolt in the trunk holes attach to?
It looks like the bolt in each hole is holding the top of each coil spring to the car. I think there was a large nut and washer, but I didn’t see any rubber pad. When I did the shocks, the rear end lowered down with the shock bolts removed. The springs stayed attached at the top. I did every body mount, not a single one gave me any trouble. The car used the entire kit PLUS the extra 2 “supplement” ones and I did not have to remove these 2 large bolts. All bolts I removed were from underneath the car, except the ones by the radiator. The chassis is incredibly dry, and I don’t see any signs of accident. There looks to be the “type O” 12 bolt cover rear end and and normal control arm setup. Were there studs that snapped off and someone replaced with bolts? You can see these bolts are next to the wheel wells where, at least I think, the coils are supposed to sit on top of the axle.

Last edited by 1967Supreeeme; December 29th, 2017 at 02:51 PM.
1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old December 29th, 2017, 02:54 PM
  #5  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
There should be no bolts that attach the springs to the body. On a 66 there was a clamp on the diff perch. Post some pics when you get it apart.
oldcutlass is offline  
Old December 29th, 2017, 03:40 PM
  #6  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
Are you sure the rear suspension bushings are in good shape? Worn bushings can also cause squeaks.
joe_padavano is offline  
Old December 29th, 2017, 04:08 PM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Are you sure the rear suspension bushings are in good shape? Worn bushings can also cause squeaks.
Hey Joe, I am going to tackle them next. I just wanted to go after obvious hacks and missing rubber isolators first. It’s nice having the manual now before I tear stuff apart.
1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old December 29th, 2017, 07:08 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
steverw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,584
Like Eric said there are no bolts or clamps that hold the springs in in a 67. You have to set the springs in, raise the rearend up, attach the shocks, and this usually is enough to hold the springs until it is lowered to the ground. The springs need to be clocked properly while up and easy to turn. I think its so the end of the pigtail is parallel with the axle if I remember correctly.
Good luck
steverw is offline  
Old January 2nd, 2018, 03:03 PM
  #9  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
Originally Posted by steverw
Like Eric said there are no bolts or clamps that hold the springs in in a 67. You have to set the springs in, raise the rearend up, attach the shocks, and this usually is enough to hold the springs until it is lowered to the ground. The springs need to be clocked properly while up and easy to turn. I think its so the end of the pigtail is parallel with the axle if I remember correctly.
Good luck
Ok, this makes sense. When I removed the old air shocks, I compared them to the new stock replacements. The air shocks were several inches longer at extended length. Maybe someone was going for that super raked look and with the *** end way in the air, this was the “fix” to keep the springs from falling out. Once I got the new shocks in place, there was hardly any slop where the springs sit on the axle.I’m picking up new isolators tomorrow, I’ll report back once I unbolt the springs and get some rubber back up there.
1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old January 7th, 2018, 11:04 AM
  #10  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159



1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old January 7th, 2018, 11:11 AM
  #11  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
So, once I removed the nuts and bolts, I was able to pull the springs out with the shocks still attached. I took pics showing the lower mount too, just a cup that the spring sits on. Looks to be correct for a 67?

Both springs were the same length, about 12 5/8”. Seems pretty short. Are these the wrong springs? Or have they been heated to lower the car?
1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old January 7th, 2018, 12:47 PM
  #12  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
If you could pull the springs with the shocks attached you have shocks that are too long or springs that are too short. Bets are on the springs.
oldcutlass is offline  
Old January 7th, 2018, 12:57 PM
  #13  
Registered User
 
nicks1966's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: elkhart indiana
Posts: 487
those look like Moog cargo coils, the ones listed for a 67 cutlass are CC501
I ordered a set of those for my 66 by mistake and they look just like the ones you have.

12.63 inch free height
8 inch compressed height
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...il_springs.asp
nicks1966 is offline  
Old January 7th, 2018, 01:18 PM
  #14  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
This is a great reference chart of all Moog coil springs. You can do some quick measurements to determine which spring you have. You'll find that a lot of the repro places reference the Moog pn's.
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...il_springs.asp
oldcutlass is offline  
Old January 7th, 2018, 01:37 PM
  #15  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gab-81514

Here’s the shocks I’m running, seems to fit like I would expect. They only need to be compressed a little to line up the lower bolt to the mounting hole.

1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old January 7th, 2018, 01:51 PM
  #16  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
Originally Posted by nicks1966
those look like Moog cargo coils, the ones listed for a 67 cutlass are CC501
I ordered a set of those for my 66 by mistake and they look just like the ones you have.

12.63 inch free height
8 inch compressed height
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...il_springs.asp
Yeah, Moog sells stock replacement at 14.29 inches free height (6321). This sounds about right. If someone has a nice used set I’d be willing to buy them, you can shoot me a message. Probably put up a want ad
1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old January 7th, 2018, 02:09 PM
  #17  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
You can get a brand new pair through rockauto for $49.79.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/moo...il+spring,7512
oldcutlass is offline  
Old January 7th, 2018, 08:43 PM
  #18  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
At that price I went ahead and ordered them. Can’t wait to see the improvement. 😀
1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old January 12th, 2018, 04:48 PM
  #19  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
Got the new springs installed and the car rides WAY better. There’s still some noise going on, but not as bad. I’ll be checking out the control arm bushings and maybe exhaust rattling at high speed when I put my foot in it. Thanks guys
1967Supreeeme is offline  
Old January 12th, 2018, 05:09 PM
  #20  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
Glad your moving in the right direction.
oldcutlass is offline  
Old January 12th, 2018, 08:31 PM
  #21  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 159
After looking it all over I think I figured out what was going on.

One owner had air shocks installed, or dealer maybe...
Someone then added a sway bar (don’t see factory boxed control arms....
Then, some asshat decided they wanted it lowered, left the dead, super long air shocks in place. Heated the springs at the axle end ( on closer inspection they look darker at the bottom and coils are too close together compared to the replacements)
Since they didn’t realize the spring length is CRITICAL to keeping the rear end on the ground, they attempted to “fix” the situation by bolting the springs in place.
Running it like this (with a loose sway bar too) probably destroyed the control arm bushings. No doubt, they are probably f**ked.
1967Supreeeme is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
johnnyjaws
Big Blocks
2
February 23rd, 2015 04:30 PM
cola
Chassis/Body/Frame
23
May 14th, 2014 08:12 PM
krauser65
Parts Wanted
0
April 29th, 2014 08:26 AM
Longhorncutlass
General Discussion
4
March 2nd, 2009 01:53 PM
Want-A-Vert
Chassis/Body/Frame
1
March 23rd, 2007 03:22 PM



Quick Reply: Rear spring help



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:48 PM.