Need some advice due to varied opinions: Do I need to lift the engine from engine bay to replace the timing chain on a Hi output 330 V-8. People say I also need to remove the oil pan. Thanks!

 

You might tell us exactly what car you are working on.

You should not have to lift the engine to replace the timing chain.

You might have to loosen the first couple of bolts in front of the oil pan, but usually not required.

 

+1. Pan has to come down a fraction of an inch in front.

"People" say all kinds of things.

- Eric

 

+2, I'll add remove the radiator to give you some room to work.

 

The timing chain is for a 1964 cutlass convert. I had a guy change the gasket on the oil pan and he told me he could stretch the timing chain an inch below the gears. Then he told me the cost to change the timing chain...YIKES!!! I said to him, all you have to do is remove the fan, water pump, and the timing chain is right there...why do you need to lift out the engine. Decided to take on the project myself! Thanks for all your replies. I was planning to remove the radiator for added work room. Thanks!!! Ken

 

Of course, the hard part of this job is getting the front cover back on after you change the chain. The trick is to trim the "ears" from the ends of the rubber seal at the bottom of the front cover. The stock seal sits in a channel at the bottom of the front cover and is compressed by the oil pan when the pan is installed. The seal also has a small "wing" on each side that is clamped between the pan and the block.

Cut off these wings, loosen the pan bolts, and force the cover into place over the two dowel pins at the front of the block. Sometimes it helps to grind the chamfer on the dowel pins to make it easier to get the cover started. Use a large dollop of RTV at the corners of the pan to replace the missing wings.

Be sure to replace the front cover to dampener seal while the cover is off. If the dampener is scored where the seal rides, you can get a repair sleeve. You don't need to remove the water pump from the front cover to take the cover off, so if it doesn't need it, you can leave the 1/4-20 fasteners in place. If you do remove it, be very careful when torquing this self-tapping fasteners. Finally, be sure to note the location of the two spacers between the PS pump bracket and the block.

 

Joe, thanks for you reply. But what is "RTV", and thanks for the hint about not taking off the water pump. By the way, do you know the torque specs for the water pump bolts? Thanks! Ken

 

It stands for Room Temperature Vuncanizing Silicone.

It's this magical goop that makes a gasket when you slather it all over a surface.

I've used it from engine repair to hole-in-floor-pan repair. Works great.

There are different temperatures. Red is the hot stuff for water neck jackets and such, Black is all purpose. They make even fancier ones for intake manifolds and 2-stroke crankcases