Stock 63 Amp alternator VS higher amp
#1
Stock 63 Amp alternator VS higher amp
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Well, have developed another issue. Hi all I know it has been a been a while since I've posted and participated. So I recently replaced my alternator with a new 63 Amp alternator that puts out 77 amps at 6000rpm and 45 amps at 2000 rpm, ripple current 12 and leakage current 0.66 mAmps at the top of the label says 12V 61A PASS. Now there is a flicker in the headlights, light low and high beam. They are sealed Sylvania Halogens, not the new stuff with Halos and resisters etc. No flicker in dash gauges or tail lights.
Now the car is a 72 Cutlass Supreme convertible with A/C and power windows. Also ( if I ever get it working ) Stereo with Amp, dash , kick panel and rear speakers in stock location, and also stealth subwoofers und the front seats. Did the convertibles with these power options ( minus the stereo ) run a higher amp Alternator ? And if so what amp should I go up to and is it possible to still get an alternator that would look stock ( due to AACA judging ) for the car. Or would I have to have the coil rewound to higher amp and use the stock 63 amp case. Any one have a stock Cutlass or 442 w/ 350 4bbl that used a higher amp alternator for the power options mentioned minus the stereo. Also should the pulley and fins be Cadmium gold or black .
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#2
I can only answer a few of your questions. In 71, three output alternators were offered during those years, 37, 55 and 63. Non A/C cars got 37, while A/C cars got 55 and electric defroster models called for the 63 amp. 72 would be the same or very little if any difference. I can't see how you would need to go higher than what you have now. I run 37 in my 71 442 with power windows and never had any issues. As far as the pulley color, it should be a silver cad color,neither black nor gold.
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dirtydynamic
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December 27th, 2011 08:34 AM