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Pilot bearing

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Old March 15th, 2013 | 01:33 PM
  #1  
Bfg's Avatar
Bfg
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Pilot bearing

Has anyone ever drilled the crank for a pilot bushing? I know Olds cranks were not machined from the factory for the pilot bushing. Wondered if it was possible to do with the crank still in the motor?
Old March 15th, 2013 | 01:34 PM
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Chesrown 67 OAI's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Bfg
Has anyone ever drilled the crank for a pilot bushing? I know Olds cranks were not machined from the factory for the pilot bushing. Wondered if it was possible to do with the crank still in the motor?
Its possible, but not easy. drawings available at wildaboutcars.com
Old March 15th, 2013 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfg
Has anyone ever drilled the crank for a pilot bushing? I know Olds cranks were not machined from the factory for the pilot bushing. Wondered if it was possible to do with the crank still in the motor?
No. The required concentricity of the pilot bearing hole can only be obtained by putting the crank on a lathe.

Do not confuse this with drilling a CLEARANCE hole when using the conversion bearing for AT cranks. In this case, the conversion bearing is centered in the existing recess in the crank for the torque converter snout. The hole is only to allow clearance for the tip of the MT input shaft where it projects through the conversion bearing and into the space where the factory pilot bearing would have been. Since this hole is only for clearance, concentricity and diameter really don't matter, so people have drilled this hole with the engine in the car. Again, you cannot do this for a factory-style pilot bearing.
Old March 15th, 2013 | 02:53 PM
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Look at the following thread:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post357582
Old March 15th, 2013 | 06:27 PM
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From: central massachusetts
pilot bearing

i have drilled two cranks while in the engine using a magnetic drill press mounted on the stick flywheel,drilling it for a chevy bushing.many miles including the dragstrip without a problem.
Old March 15th, 2013 | 09:22 PM
  #6  
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I would agree with Joe P's advice. Not only should the pilot bearing be dead center so the input of the transmission won't precess, but the bell housing should be centered, up/down and side to side, as well as in/out going around the hole for the trans. Lakewood and others make offset dowels for the block to get the bell housing aligned perfectly, or within a few thousandths at least. People have gotten away without aligning the bellhousing, and with the pilot bushing only approximately centered, but that is not the right way.
Old March 16th, 2013 | 07:00 AM
  #7  
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From: maryland
Listen to Joe P. and Joe D.--they know what they are talking about. It can be done the "flat rate" way, heck, they make a kit to cut the input shaft of the trans. to make it work, but.............that REALLY isn't the "right" way to do it. Kinda like balancing the rotating assembly in a bottom-end. Do you NEED to do it? Maybe not. Should you do it? Absolutely.
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