Need weather stripping instructions
#1
Need weather stripping instructions
Hello I have a 72 cutlass supreme and I took all the weather stripping off the car last year now I'm ready to install new stripping back on. Is there any instructions for installing the weather stripping anywhere.
#2
The Fisher Body Manual will show you where the factory recommended adhesive, but frankly, it's pretty common sense. The weatherstrip pretty much only goes on one way, and you will be able to tell where you need dabs of adhesive to keep it in place. The new weatherstrip will be a little larger than the old, so expect the doors to take a little effort to shut when the weatherstrip is new.
#3
I put on most of the seals without glue. The exception would be obviously the roof rail and a small dab as needed if somethings not cooperating per Mr. P. My theory is the glue could hold moisture. For example I install the trunk seal in a 68-69 without any glue. Reason: Where the seal groove dips down by the trunk latch is a notorious area where water pools. So left unglued I'm able to partially pull it out each time I wash the car and soak it up with a towel and let the seal air dry before reinsertion. ****...yes.
Another tip. When installing the roof rail dont go too crazy with the black strip calk between the stainless rail and body. Favor the inner side of the area so as to avoid a large amount of the calk from oozing out the front. You want just a little, so to show you have a good seal. You can use a plastic or wood scraper to clean anything thats excessive not a razor. The quarter window retention clip can be restored. If the plastic has worn off it, clean it down to the metal and dip or brush several coats of black plasti-dip on it in light even coats for that factory look & function. Obviously do this well before you intend on installing the rubber seal, let it fully cure.
I use car-brite rubber weather strip dressing to preserve the seals. The red car in my avitar has had its seals for 25 years now and they are still as soft as the day they were installed. Available at you local body/paint/detail supply house. Hope this is helpful.
Exclaimer this is just one opinion there are at least 42 ways to skin the olds cat.
Another tip. When installing the roof rail dont go too crazy with the black strip calk between the stainless rail and body. Favor the inner side of the area so as to avoid a large amount of the calk from oozing out the front. You want just a little, so to show you have a good seal. You can use a plastic or wood scraper to clean anything thats excessive not a razor. The quarter window retention clip can be restored. If the plastic has worn off it, clean it down to the metal and dip or brush several coats of black plasti-dip on it in light even coats for that factory look & function. Obviously do this well before you intend on installing the rubber seal, let it fully cure.
I use car-brite rubber weather strip dressing to preserve the seals. The red car in my avitar has had its seals for 25 years now and they are still as soft as the day they were installed. Available at you local body/paint/detail supply house. Hope this is helpful.
Exclaimer this is just one opinion there are at least 42 ways to skin the olds cat.
#4
I put a light coat of black weather strip cement on the seal and substrate, let sit about 15 minutes and then put it together. For maintenance I just use plain old silicone spray to keep them soft and pliable.
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April 1st, 2014 07:35 AM