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Oil fill: hammer/mallet. I put a thin ring of RTV around the base. Not necessary, just makes me feel better. Just hit it until it's solid. Sometimes if it's been mangled a bunch then I cut off 1/8" from the bottom.
Dipstick: It's best if you can fit a wrench on the flat near the bottom, and hammer that. The two small bumpouts are a friction fit into the block. That method is pretty hard when the engine is in the car, so just protect the top and hit it carefully with a mallet until that ring is seated to the block. You might mangle the top or bend the tube.
Wires: Some of those are hot, so if you cut them be sure to insulate each end separately. Sure, you can cut them if you'll never put A/C back in - or eve a blower. I'd recommend just coiling them up and tucking behind the right wheel well.
If that's a repro dipstick tube, expect the two retention beads to be oversized. I've had to file mine to match the outside diameter of the beads on the OEM tube by as much as 0.010". Installation is MUCH easier if you do that.
On the oil fill tube, find a pipe or socket that fits nicely (..not to snug) into the tube, tap it down into the tube and it will press that big dent out..then as stated earlier, a mallet. I use a piece of wood on top of the tube and tap it into the block hole..