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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 03:04 PM
  #1  
starfire's Avatar
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How Does This Work?

I've removed the Intermediate Steering Shaft from my 1968 Cutlass S. These are pics of my Intermediate Steering Shaft Seal Clamp. I've ordered a new ISSS from OPGI (it's on backorder of course) so I don't know if it comes with a new clamp or not. This is the first time I have ever worked on this part of a steering column and the clamp does not look like a spring clamp. I'm afraid if I go to remove it I will just bend it out of shape. Does anyone know if this is a spring clamp or do you need a special tool to remove/install the clamp? I've tried to remove this clamp, but I can't get ahold of it (there are no tabs like most spring clamps of this type would have) to work it off. I could grab it with a pair of pliers and bend the heck out of it and just rip it off, but I'm sure there must be a proper way to remove this. I can't find anything in the CSM about replacing this seal. They show disassembly of the coupling on page 9A-35, but nothing about removing the seal.


SS1.jpg

SS2.jpg

SS3.jpg

SS4.jpg

Thanks,
Old Jan 1, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #2  
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I don't know for sure, but that clamp looks suspiciously like a regular squeezy clamp (like a big version of a fuel line clamp) with the tabs snapped off......

If you can find a new one the right size, rip off the old, install the new and snap the tabs off......
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 05:26 AM
  #3  
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Indy, I agree that's what it sort of looks like, but close inspection with a magnifying glass it doesn't appear that any tabs were broken off. Also, I think it would be odd if all three tabs were broken off of the same piece all at the same time. I'm assuming that this is the original seal and the clamp is actually protected as it is up inside the coupler housing (I've got the seal flipped back to expose the clamp) so I don't see how the tabs could have been broken off. I've posted this here and on ROP and nobody seems to know anything about this.
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 06:58 AM
  #4  
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I agree, I think this is a special spring clamp with the tabs scored so that they can be snapped off after installation. If the tabs were still in place, the parts couldn't be assembled. It would not be unusual for the factory to have special parts like this made up. A simple score line at the bend would allow the clamps to be installed with normal tools then a quick twist would snap each tab off at the score line. You could replicate this by using a normal spring clamp and cutting the tabs off after installation with a cutoff wheel.
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 07:02 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by starfire
Indy, I agree that's what it sort of looks like, but close inspection with a magnifying glass it doesn't appear that any tabs were broken off. Also, I think it would be odd if all three tabs were broken off of the same piece all at the same time. I'm assuming that this is the original seal and the clamp is actually protected as it is up inside the coupler housing (I've got the seal flipped back to expose the clamp) so I don't see how the tabs could have been broken off. I've posted this here and on ROP and nobody seems to know anything about this.
Interesting...
I figured at the factory they installed with tabs and then snapped them off for clearance. But, after a little reseaerch, I now think they used some special pliers like these...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...CAT150_pg2.htm
-or-


..that handle clamps without tabs..


Last edited by Indy_68_S; Jan 2, 2011 at 07:05 AM.
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 07:37 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Indy_68_S
Interesting...
I now think they used some special pliers like these...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...CAT150_pg2.htm
-or-


..that handle clamps without tabs..

They are pretty cheap, only $20. Be worth a try and you would be able to reuse the clamp instead of trying to find a new one. Since the seal is on back order you would probably get the pliers before the seal.
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 08:26 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Indy_68_S
Interesting...
I figured at the factory they installed with tabs and then snapped them off for clearance. But, after a little reseaerch, I now think they used some special pliers like these...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...CAT150_pg2.htm
-or-


..that handle clamps without tabs..

That's what I was hoping for! Thanks Indy. I'll order some today, and also look for the flat band hose clamp (so that's what it's called) that is the correct size in case the seal from OPGI does not come with a clamp.

Joe, you overestimate my skills with the cut-off wheel. There's no way I could get in there and knock off the tabs without ripping up the new seal

Thanks again for the help guys!
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 08:59 AM
  #8  
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OK...but careful on what you order. Looks like there's a bazillion different configurations for these types of pliers.... Most look like they're for the "with tabs" type of clamps or for the round wire type....

This application seems rather specialized...

Got a friendly Snap-On/Matco/MAC/Cornwell guy in your area ?!? Might be worth a quick chat to figure out exactly what you need / what's available....
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 02:56 PM
  #9  
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Hear is a link on how to rebuild the joint, with no mention of how to remove or install the special "band clamp" for the boot seal.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...al-replace.doc

and.... some interesting reading on this very subject

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...hlight=7802919
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #10  
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Hmmm, Rocket Vapor that is some very interesting reading. Thanks.

Indy, you are right, as I look more and more into it (thanks again for pointing me in the right direction) that doesn't seem to be the correct tool. I've gone ahead and ordered these:

OTC.jpg

It looks to me like the one on the right may do the job. If not, I have a new tool that will eventually make some job easier .

I'll let everyone know how this turns out, don't know when my seal will be here though, so it may be a while.

Thanks for all of the help!
Old Jan 19, 2011 | 04:23 PM
  #11  
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OK, my seal finally arrived. It does not have a new clamp with it but I was able to remove the old clamp with the tool that I got. Now I have to track down an arbor press to remove the pin so that I can get the new seal on.

Seal removed:
IMG_2769.jpg

Got these tools in a double pack. I used the one on the right. It wasn't easy, but I finally got it.
IMG_2770.jpg

Close up of the jaws (sorry, my camera does not take good close ups)
IMG_2773.jpg
Old Jan 19, 2011 | 04:48 PM
  #12  
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all the ones I have done I just knocked the pin out with a punch and hammer. they are not usually in real tight.
Old Jan 19, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by compedgemarine
all the ones I have done I just knocked the pin out with a punch and hammer. they are not usually in real tight.
Hmm, the documentation I have from Rocket Vapor's post specifically states to not drive the pin out with a hammer. I really do not want to mess this up. I may just remove the flange from the rag joint end and slide it on from that end.
Old Jan 20, 2011 | 05:59 AM
  #14  
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Here is a link to all of Jim Shea's steering papers. He was an engineer at Saginaw.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=5
Old Jul 13, 2013 | 07:07 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by starfire
...









Thanks,
I am thinking this tool, perhaps with a little relief grinding to allow the jaws to get at the ends of the spring clamp:

Mayhew 28665 Clic Hose Clamp Pliers
$68 at amazon.com
Amazon Amazon


Then again, this is the only review:
"Sucks. These pliers should say what type if clamps they are for. These pliers are for German style clamps and they are not even that good for those clamps. Do not buy this item."
Old Jul 13, 2013 | 07:17 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Octania
I am thinking this tool, perhaps with a little relief grinding to allow the jaws to get at the ends of the spring clamp:

Mayhew 28665 Clic Hose Clamp Pliers
$68 at amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-28665-C...owViewpoints=1
While I'm hoping the OP got his steering shaft assembled (the thread is over two years old), it's always good to find the correct tool. I'm skeptical of the Amazon ad, however, since the description doesn't match the photo in the ad:

Used to loosen and remove a wide variety of automotive hose clamps
Long, flexible cable allows for use in hard-to-reach areas
Spring-loaded ratchet has multiple stops for less strain on the user
Long, flexible cable??? Spring-loaded ratchet???

Where?

Old Jul 31, 2013 | 04:35 PM
  #17  
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Joe, I ran across this thread again while I was searching for a different one. No, I never did get it rebuilt. The Stinger pliers I bought worked well for removing the clamp, but I wasn't able to get the pin out. Of course I really haven't tried recently as I just ended up buying a good condition used steering shaft.

My god! $68 for those pliers, I got mine (which worked and had a bonus pair that I might need for something someday) for around $20 (and they worked!).
Old Jul 31, 2013 | 05:19 PM
  #18  
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Starfire, I ran the new boot under hot water and used dish soap and it slipped over the pin. I ended up using a plastic hose clamp similar to this pic and it worked well. I repacked it with Mobile1 synthetic and hung it in my garage. The Mobile1 leaked and continued to leak so I repacked it with Lucas Red and Tacky and it has held up great.
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