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after comparing what I am seeing here with what I’m looking at in the service manual, it doesn’t seam to be right. Seams to be stuff missing and also notice the duct tape and big hose clamp that’s being used for something but I’m not sure what’s going on here. I’m also wondering how many bolts need to be removed on the engine side.
Last edited by Hillbilllystarfire; December 1st, 2020 at 10:28 PM.
Reason: Rephrase question.
L
ooks
like I got a job in my hands if I want to get this thing back to the way it’s supposed to be. Would love for some recommendations for a good next step. Is the heater box salvageable?
The box is shot. Time to find one. It can come from any 64 big Olds with AC. One from another factory AC 1964 GM B-body might be the same but I can't swear to that.
The big clamp goes around a rubber seal that goes from the kick panel (notice evaporator core in the fender) to the fiberglass inside box. That's probably where the duct tape was!
That two-port vacuum motor with the broken nipple on the underhood box is also used on 64-5 GTO and it's reproduced. It controls the outside air/recirc flap.
If you have a hand vacuum pump test all those vacuum motors while they're accessible.
Everything seems pretty well rusted. The motor spins pretty freely though. In the meantime, does anyone know of where to find a plate to cover the hole, or will I have to make one? Should I leave all the a/c system in the car? It looks fine, but sho knows when it was last used. Especially considering the shape of everything.
You do have some work ahead of you. You should leave all the AC parts in the car. Most anybody that wants a Starfire will want AC. I doubt anybody in Texas or any other warm state would buy a Starfire without AC.
You do have some work ahead of you. You should leave all the AC parts in the car. Most anybody that wants a Starfire will want AC. I doubt anybody in Texas or any other warm state would buy a Starfire without AC.
who says I’m going to sell it to a Texan lol. Or even sell it. So what you’re saying is that the a/c components will work, once I replace the box. My other big question concerns the gaskets, once the parts are found
I have no idea about the condition of your AC system or if all the parts are even there so I have no idea if it will work. All I am saying is if you ever sell the car it will be worth a lot more and easier to sell with working AC. I personally don't care if you ever sell your car to a Texan or anybody else.
Last edited by redoldsman; December 3rd, 2020 at 09:02 AM.
I have no idea about the condition of your AC system or if all the parts are even there so I have no idea if it will work. All I am saying is if you ever sell the car it will be worth a lot more and easier to sell with working AC. I personally don't care if you ever sell your car to a Texan or anybody else.
of course I’m just kidding around,
but I really don’t know anything about the a/c system other than what I try to figure from looking at the manual. It looks like it is all there and just needs cleaned up. I don’t know what happens to that stuff after it sets for decades
You do have a lot of work there. This the perfect time to choose whether all stock restoration of your HVAC system is a priority or if an aftermarket conversion system will meet your needs as a driver. The aftermarket system will be a LOT cheaper and the AC portion with R134A will be more efficient. If I were in your shoes I would choose aftermarket but that is just my opinion.
You do have a lot of work there. This the perfect time to choose whether all stock restoration of your HVAC system is a priority or if an aftermarket conversion system will meet your needs as a driver. The aftermarket system will be a LOT cheaper and the AC portion with R134A will be more efficient. If I were in your shoes I would choose aftermarket but that is just my opinion.
that has been on my mind. Where would be the best place to find an aftermarket conversion?
that has been on my mind. Where would be the best place to find an aftermarket conversion?
I recommend Vintage Air. There will most likely be no direct bolt-in kit but Rocketraider's 64 Chev thought may work. Use their largest capacity Air-Heat-Defrost model which should fit fine under your dash. Since your car has factory air you can reuse all your stock dash vents and possibly adapt your control panel. The entire evaporator/fan/control unit fits under the dash so the only things remaining under the hood is the condenser, compressor, drier and lines. It will use a modern lightweight Sanden compressor. One important thing to remember is that the system operates as recirculate only with no outside air blend available. I did a similar conversion on a 1963 Buick Riviera, it was actually a pretty easy job and worked very well in Texas heat.
One important thing to remember is that the system operates as recirculate only with no outside air blend available.
Which is how all underdash hang-on units worked. They would freeze you out. I imagine one with heat will cook you.
VA 64 Chev kit has an underdash duct that contours to the Chev dash (most Chev were non-air or had the dealer installed Cool-Pack hang on unit), but daresay they can configure one to work with your factory air dash vents. Flex hose is a marvelous thing! The Sanden compressor should be adaptable to your A6 compressor brackets.
My folks had a 65 Impala, white/blue interior, with a Sears hang on unit. Full recirc. Kept it cold in there. The 1974 triple black Impala that replaced it had factory air which ran off either inside or outside air, and even on MAX Mama said it didn't cool enough. It went back several times till the Chev dealer said "It's doing all it can do". My folks generally kept a car 6-10 years but Mama made up her mind she didn't like that black Chevrolet and in a couple years a white 76 Cutlass sedan replaced it. It too had factory air but it satisfied her.
December 1st, 2020, 06:20 AM
