a70oldscutlass

Ive been trying to get some parts ordered for my car but I need some help to try and figure out what I need[I need a lot of parts]and where is the cheapest place to get them.Im building a 70 rallye 350 post car from the ground up and need your help to save some time and money.Im going to put the original drivetrain in the corner so I don't tear any of it up and still have the original safe and sound.Im going to put a 455,700r-4 with 2200 stall.chevy 8.5 with 3.73 in it[im going to run 295-50-15 on the back and what would be your choice for front tire and wheels?].I think im going to go with poly grafhite bushing all the way around and what do you think on body bushings?Im going to use the factory boxed lowers and the adjustibles on top and frame support bars to the lowers.What springs should I use front and back[I would like for the back to be1-2 in. taller]?I seen somewhere that you can use s-10 back disc setup.Im going to use moog parts to rebuild the frontend.I want the ride to stay good but I want to fim it up so I don't have a bunch of body roll and I want it to come out of the hole as hard as I can get it to without comprimiseing my ride.What do I need to do to check to see what all I need to replace to get my air to work.i know I have a lot of questions but im going to have more im shure.Please any and all help would be appreciated.thanks

2blu442

If it were me I'd keep the Rallye together and find a plain jane Cutlass to build. But I have a large driveway and don't mind the excuse to pick up another project.

First let me share that most people opt for the 200R4 rather than the 700R4. There's several threads that compare the two transmissions if you have time to read through they would explain it better than I could.

I ran 295/50/15's years ago and had problems with the inside of the tire rubbing when I had body roll. I had the wheels made with the center in the very center as far as offset goes. At least one person on the site had a set built with a different offset and he said his was fine. That's another topic you could look for old posts on.

One of my favorite parts dealers is RockAuto.com Often they will list several brands with prices for a part and you can choose which one to purchase.

Keep the questions coming, but if you've not posted pictures of your car yet we'd enjoy seeing some.

John

Charlie Jones

Save your money on the Chevy 10 bolt. IMHO it isn't any stronger than the present BOP 10 bolt that's in there. 3.73 gears and a posi unit will cost about the same for either. If you plan on serious drag racing with drag tires, the best choice may be a Chevelle 12 bolt.
To me; unless you drive like a madman and live in the mountains, rear disc brakes are totally unnecessary. However, if you have front drum brakes by all means convert the fronts to discs

nsnarsk65cutlass

I second keeping it original,it's your car do as you want.i use rockauto they have great prices,just be mindfull of the shipping.

s i 442

1: the Chevy rear end is cheaper and easier to get parts for.
2: front rims and tires, 205/75/15s on a 6 inch rim would really be "bigs a littles"!

a70oldscutlass

I run 295-50 on my other car and they do good as long as I don't have much body roll.I have already got the 700 r-4 about done and I like them alright and they are cheaper to build to withstand more torque.Im taking out the original drivetrain so nothing happens to it[I feel like if you lose the original drivetrain that the car is no diff. than a plain cutlass and no need in taking any chances] and ive already bought the chevy 10 bolt for $225 but I haven't set it up yet.I do live in what you could call the mountains.On some roads in places you cant drive over 30 mph.

a70oldscutlass

I just took the gas tank out and I noticed a spacer under the back springs about 4in. long.Did any cars come out with that setup?I haven't ever seen it before.The car set level.