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drip rail removal tool

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Old March 28th, 2011, 04:20 PM
  #1  
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drip rail removal tool

i was reading through some old threads on how to remove the driprail trim. i found the part of rubber coating an old bottle opener. well that got me looking through the kitchen and i found this new plastic style opener.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...TF8&me=&seller=

no need to rubber coat it, it is plastic. you may want to order 2 of them. i ruined the first one after 3 moldings but on the last one i figured out a good way to pry with it using the rubber handle of an old window handle. it worked out great and it don't even touch the trim other than the little lip on the bottom.

these pics are just a mock up of how i did it on the other three, i need to order another one for me and another one to replace the one that my wife doesn't know is broken.

100_1298.jpg?t=1301354105

100_1299.jpg?t=1301354145

100_1300.jpg?t=1301354181

100_1297.jpg?t=1301354208
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Old February 2nd, 2014, 04:18 PM
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Tried this trick today and it worked like a champ.. After doing the passenger side I tried to rush the drivers side and ended up putting some bends in the top drip rail, but I think they will walk themselves out when I put it back on the car with the 20 lb sledge
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Old February 2nd, 2014, 04:48 PM
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Oldsmobility.com has some tricks. One was to use a wooden paint mixing stick from your local hardware store. Tap it from the bottom side. I had my drip rail off in less than a minute. No damage. I would recommend polishing it up before removing it. Very difficult to polish while it is off. Easy to bend/damage.
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Old February 2nd, 2014, 07:50 PM
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What is the best way to remove the rail cleanly if there is about 1/8" of old paint in the channel?
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 08:29 AM
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Well, I've been using one of these forever with no problems. Obviously, use the rounded end. One wrap of black electrical tape solves any scratching problem. the small tab goes under the lower lip of the drip rail and the upper part bears against the top of the drip rail It never touches the sheet metal of the roof. Slowly work your way from one end of the rail to the other. Never damaged a trim piece yet.

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Old February 3rd, 2014, 09:45 AM
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I use a pair of vise grips with tape on the jaws. Just adjust the jaw opening to fit the molding so the can grab the lower lip of the molding to work it off.

Henry
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Well, I've been using one of these forever with no problems. Obviously, use the rounded end. One wrap of black electrical tape solves any scratching problem. the small tab goes under the lower lip of the drip rail and the upper part bears against the top of the drip rail It never touches the sheet metal of the roof. Slowly work your way from one end of the rail to the other. Never damaged a trim piece yet.

Ahhh, the old Church Key has found another use!
Thanks for the info!
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