I would like to know the best route to take on my a/c,which is all original now.To convert to 134,can I use my original compressor,and if so,what needs to be done to it.Can some local business calibrate the pov ?I am just not looking to spend $500 to do this.Also,what is the original height of the front springs with a/c while out of the car?If I jack up my car in front,then let it down,i have to push the car down in front to get it level.They looked very long before they went back in after c/a bushing replacement.Anyone know where I can get an original 1972 cutlass 4 bbl carb? I have a marine carb,just not right and gets 10 mpg.Thanks!

 

Why change the Freon? I just converted my car back to R12 so the system would work right. Cost $800 to clean all the oil out of everything. That's the most expensive part of the conversion, the 2 Freons use totally different lubricants and they are not compatible. There are other parts you need to change also but they vary from year to year.

 

Did the system work before - recently? If it has the old A6 compressor, the front seal may have dried up - common leak point.. Look for oil residue on components to help find the leak. If you want to not change much, then stay with R12. However, R12 is $55 a pound vs 20 for 134...

If converting to 134, the POA would need to be calibrated off the car. Classic Auto air can do this, test, replate, and restore the valve for $100. Most local shops do not mess with POAs. System would need a total flush to get all the old oil out.

Either way it will be costly.

It is normal for the car to not settle completely when let off a jack. Suspension geometry causes the tires to be spaced inwards and want to scrub. Move the car a few feet and allow it to settle.

 

I agree with leaving it R12. Also when the control arms bushings were replaced were they tightened with the normal load on the suspension? The vehicle should be lowered to it's normal stance then the bushings tightened with normal loading.

 

GM and/or Frigidaire actually told dealers that A6 compressors normally leaked at the clutch seal to slow down warranty claims.

 

I heard somewhere that 1/2 pound per year was supposed to be considered "normal" with them...
I sure hope the newer lip seals are a big improvement over the ceramics!

 

Actually the service lit states that system may lose up to 1 lb a year in normal operation and it is not considered excessive.

'Course ya gotta remember that back then a 12 oz can of R12 was like 79 cents and nobody worried about any damn fabricated ozone hole.

 

R12 was just another consumable fluid, like motor oil, battery electrolyte, and antifreeze.

- Eric

 

134 in wisconsin is $36-50 a lb.and no one here works with r12,I checked around.I would drive almost anywhere to get this done.The heater/ac fan was installed in the box,then to the firewall,and the fenders were put on after painting,and now the fan is loud and no way do I want to take the fender off after spending 3 hours getting the front end lined up and spaces looking good..Anyone have this issue?Thanks

 

Pull the fenderwell to get at the fan. The dealer mechanics used to cut a flap in the plastic to save time..

 

Did you put the nut on the blower motor shaft to secure the cage? I knew someone whom forgot once... Makes a nasty sound when it comes off.
Yes, just pull the wheel and plastic inner fender - not too hard compared with sheetmetal.
I just bought 6 cans of R134 from Biglots last week for only 8 bucks a can - hope it's good...

 

I drove my 442 yesterday, had 30* air from the center duct, R-12 rules

 

Mac's Radiator in Boise will work on it.

 

A6 compressor and POA valve??