Ok here`s what happened and what I did afterwards ! Brought new (OLD) car home on trailer. Took it out for new tires Check! Started shake down runs to work out immediate bugs to make SAFE. Driving around go to stop brake pedal goes to floor1. Get it home find rear seal leaking on passenger side. 2. Replace both sides and bleed it out. Dirty fluid and no brake pedal.3 Replace master and vacuum booster. Still no pedal !4. Keep chasing it down replaced both front calipers bleeding is complete. STILL NO PEDAL!! What is the VERICT ?

 

Did you bench bled the new master, ensured the new calipers were on the correct side, bleaders up, bled from far to near? Can you let us know year and make of you vehicle. Oh and by the way your user name cracks me up! When, I was overseas it was slang for buyer beware!

Bill

 

Yes sir Bled the master as per include instructions and event though they look better with the bleeders facing down I forced myself to install them correctly! 70 Old Cutlass Supreme

 

How are your rear wheel cylinders looking? Have you checked them for leaks, sounds like you have a leak or air in the system. Do you have no brakes or just soft pedal?

Bill

 

Brake replacement can be a bit of a challenge.

1. If you have absolutely no pedal? Something very very wrong. Does this mean NO resistance at all? The first thing that pops into my mind is whether you installed the clevis pin in the right slot of the brake pedal.

2. If you have SOFT brakes but they do go all the way down? Discs are supposed to be somewhat soft but not to the floor. I'll go on good faith that you got the proper calipers and pads. Now, did you install DOT 3 fluid or did you install synthetic? A synthetic fluid will give a reaction like what you're describing.

3. If your system is tight and not pulling any air? It honestly sounds like the master is still has trapped air. You bench bled them 'as per whose instructions'? You probably did it right, but just checking that when they were bled the MC was completely horizontal?

Just curious - Why did you replace the OEM calipers? They are an easy rebuild for less than 10 bucks. Hardly anything to replace - piston seal and boot, bleeder valve and pin O rings.

Have you checked the center brake hose (above the differential) to see if there's a leak?

Another thing, if all others check out perfectly? On a 70 CS you may have a proportioning valve or metering valve. That may also be part of your problem. It should be located on the Left inner frame rail just by the cowl. Check it for leaks or proper operation. If you had soft brakes before the replacements and still do? There's more to this than meets the eye.

Did you by chance check to see if the Brake Booster is pulling enough vacuum or if that rubber line is good??

 

Are you getting a solid stream of fluid out of the calipers and wheel cylinders when you bled them?

 

I knew I could get you guys involved !! Getting a good stream of fluid at front calipers/got no leaks on system/plenty of vacuum at booster! So forward proportioning valve is located below the master on frame rail or close to it. The other question I have is the Master cylinder that was originally on the car had two bleeder valves on the side of it. The replacement does not. Questioned my parts guy and his response was they appear to be the same except for the bleeder valves. Could that be part of the problem!

 

I had a good pedal until the rear cylinder went out then I started replacing them then master do to rust and bad gasket so moving forward! Allen replaced them because they were originals and stuck. Blaa

 

The factory bleeder valves on the MC are nice to have but not required. That's not the problem.

If you had good pedal before replacing the rear wheel cylinders, I suspect that's where you should focus your search. Did you get the right bore on the wheel cylinders? The parts store may have sold you the wrong ones.

I tend to think the BB and MC are not your issue. The gasket between the MC and BB is new and not leaking so head towards the rear that you worked on.

 

Thanks Allan appreciate it. Will add the brakes are there just not all the way. The other this is the brake light came on when this first happened and through all the bleeding I have not seen it again!

 

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions! It turned out to be a TWO fold problem 1. Rubber hose at pumpkin apparently had collapsed on me 2. Apparently the remanufactured Master was Not putting out enough pressure to the rear once the hose was replaced So my friendly parts Guy found me a NEW NOT REMAN and it took care of the Problem ! ONTO THE GAS GUAGE !