Thinking of picking up this holiday coupe as a second project. It’s floor shift w-30 what do you all think it’s worth or a good asking price. Owner wants 15K. Puking tranny fluid everywhere.

 

Floor shift W-30?? Am I missing something??

 

guess so. It’s a cutlass S auto floor. W30 were owners words.

 

W-30 bogus claims.
The first obvious thing is no OAI hood.

 

I’ve owned my cutlass for 2 months. Forgive me for not knowing entirely what the w 30 is.

 

Have you done any research on the W-30 package? If not, we can fill you in on what it is.

 

from what I’ve gathered is it is a performance based package. Other than that I’m clueless. So clueless that when I first heard the w30 I thought 30 pistons w config.

 

It’s a high performance package with a 455 engine with a performance camshaft, special carburetor, distributor, and aluminum intake manifold. There are some other W-30 unique items as part of the package, such as the Outside Air Induction (OAI) hood and air cleaner.

 

What did you think you were buying ? From what I can see, it just looks like a Cutlass under a tarp.

 

got it. Yeah seller was quoting w30 repeatedly and saying factory stock. Good to know seller was lying through teeth or had no idea what he had, but after further investigation owner had a Chevelle motor inside it pumped up no idea why he was spouting w30

 

owner stated cutlass holiday coupe supreme with w30 on listed ad.

 

w30 clearly bullshit and I’m not an experience cutlass owner. I’m 22 first time owner of a 70 vinyl top cutlass supreme and was looking at this other one to purchase and work on aside my current one.

 

The transmission puking fluid might just be from sitting. I've had a few auto trans Olds that would start leaking trans fluid after a few weeks of sitting without running.

I don't think the W-30 option was available except on the 442 model. The lack of "Oldsmobile" script on your hood and the Cutlass S grills correlate what you said above about it being a Cutlass S. Owners don't always understand what they have - I bought my first Cutlass from someone who had owned it for over 20 years and told me it was a "Cutlass Supreme S". It took a while for me to realize there was no such thing!

As to your question of value, that's pretty hard to say without more information and photos. If the condition of the grills is indicative of the rest of the car then 15k is likely way too much. Does it run? Why the tarp? How's the body and what's the interior like? Floor shift with bucket seats?

BTW, always great to see the younger crowd enjoying these cars, congratulations on having yours!

 

And apparently a Chevy engine, so definitely not a W-30.

 

Grabbed one photo of the paint before I headed home. I’ll be grabbing more pics next week when I check it out again. Tarp was for rain.

 

From the photo, a Cutlass S sport coupe that appears to be in pretty darned good condition (from what is visible). The wheels look to be snap on center caps, which may mean they’re later model 15” wheels, so that’s a plus. Lots more tire options than the original 14” wheels.

 

It "should" be water tight, it's a hard top...so you'll want to check where or if it's been leaking water. Check for hidden rust in floors, trunk, frame. It doesn't look like 15k Cutlass paint in my opinion, and looks like the rims may be later model. Definitely not the bolt in centre caps I believe would be correct for '70.

The Chevelle engine, aka Chevy engine wouldn't be a deal breaker for me but my offer would be lower in consideration of that. You could always retrofit with a proper Olds powerplant if desired.

 

We pride ourselves as a testosterone-free friendly bunch here to help...

Need more info.
Please provide pics of the vin on the dash and cowl tag under the hood. We will tell you what it is and is not.
Snap a pic of the interior.

If this is a standard 70 Cutlass or Cutlass S which it appears to be, 8-10-15K is reasonable. 15K is the high end for a good solid rust/rot-free unmolested example that can be made to run with TLC.
.
Check the floors, frame, trunk pan, door bottoms, rockers, inner rear wheel well housings... basically all the usual A body trouble rot spots.
Pull the chrome under the wipers. Look for rot. Dash/firewall, rear window channel repairs are expensive. Pull carpets back if the seller will allow all of this.
Looks like you are in a warm climate so if it's spent all its life not in the salt/rot belt & away from the oceans, chances are it's solid???

Paperwork, POP card and a majority of number matching parts are a large plus.

 

thanks for the info I will follow up with this pic from the owner. Gonna be making some informed decisions and try to get it for lower.

 

Please take someone with you that has far more experience with cars. You need someone that can advise you on the spot. You want a car as close to original as possible.
Olds bodies with chebby motors are a bad sign. It means the value is about half. Transplanted engines are usually cobbled, hacked and hammered. The gremlins from shoddy choices will show up, sooner or later.

 

From your other post on headlights I figured you were young. Glad to see a 22 yo into cars older than he is!😎

Unless you have a ton of money and mad mechanical and restoration skills, I think one at a time is your best way to go. Concentrate on getting your first one sorted out and learn all you can about it. Then you're armed with the knowledge you need to call bullshit on a car that just isn't what someone claims it is.

Stick with us. We'll teach you. Tell us where you're located and someone may be close by enough to help you, or steer you towards someone local to you. There's an incredible amount of knowledge here if you're willing to soak it up. You'll find some crusty old bastards here but they know their stuff.

I'll say this. Anyone who says W30 and big-block Chevy in the same sentence is either woefully ignorant or a scam artist. It's our job to protect the Olds novitiate from them.😈

 

The Chevy engine summation is not necessarily true. There are a great many examples that are well built, and well taken care of. Don't ask me how I know.

 

I’d happily ride in your “ratty” car.😊

 

Young'un, how tall are you?

I ask because in the above picture you can clearly see the hood's tooth- the "fang" as most here know it.

I'm 6'2". I still have dents and scars on my head from my mama's 70 S post coupe.

You can cut a slit in a pool noodle to cover the sharp edge of the fang while you're messing about underhood. Otherwise if you're tall the damn things will draw blood!🤕

 

NO LIE!!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-tooth-158126/

 

This picture must be from many years ago. The other pictures show that the car is nowhere close to this condition anymore. Youre looking at a $2000 to $4000 car, the seller is hoping to find a fool. Dont be suckered

 

5’9 and I have been looking out for it. But yeah I’ve cracked my head once so far even then.