jeffreyalman

well I am completely stumped. sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. I always get a connection, i.e. I hear them trying. sometimes all unlock, sometimes 3 out of 4, and not always the same 3. same with locking. so I am ruling out the switch and the actuators, but don't know where to begin.

help!

radioburningchrome

I am guessing these are electric not vacuuum. Check all ground connections and make sure you have 12 volts. A test light would help out greatly.

Sounds like a loose connection or a bad ground. Grounds are the b@stards on all cars.

jeffreyalman

my mechanic says it most likely all the actuators that are in need of replacement, but I am not sure, he mentioned voltage and it seems to me they work ok when I am driving, and tend to stick when I am idling or the engine is off, though I do not seem to have any electrical problems, but then again, I may. I am hesitant to buy 4 actuators and replace them all at this point in time while it seems to be an intermittant thing, and locking and unlocking several times seems to wake up the sleepy actuator of the day. Just don't know.

Oldsmaniac

May only need some lube on any linkage or plunger on actuator. Make sure nothing is dragging on door panel etc.

jeffreyalman

I had all the door panels removed when I got the car and had everything in all the doors lubed, and it has happened to all 4 at one time or another, LR and RR are the worst (most often sticking) but LF and RF have stuck on occasion as well, usually while unlocking, but I have caught (found) LR and RR unlocked after I locked. Very puzzling.

citcapp

Not sure if the 76 uses line voltage switches for the power locks or if they work through relays. If the power lock use relays to activate then the relays could be sticking on occasion. Check your shop manual. I had this problem of a cadillac and it was caused by a sticking relay. Just a thought

Lady72nRob71

First off, I would not think of replacing the solenoids, as they are hard to find and will be costly when you do find em.
I belive 76 was the last year for the non-relay type system.

Next thing is to lube the door hinges well with WD40, to make sure you have a good ground. These solenoids take almost 10 amps each!
When engine is running at higher RPMs, voltage may be higher compensating for drop in the ground path.

If this does not help, try different lock switches. Single window switches can be had at Napa for 10 bucks and look very similar (but without the LOCK word). Current arcing in these is a big issue due to the high current draw.

If this fails, I would remove each solenoid, dissassemble, lube, and reassemble. If the rubber boots are broke, water could be getting in and causing rust. However, I have restored some of the worst rusted solenoids easily. The coils rarely go bad. If you pull them, I would install some suppression diodes at each of the connectors to reduce the arcing, along with cleaning the terminals.

jeffreyalman

thanks for the great tips guys