Hey guys,

Long Story Short, my request is: Would someone please measure their stabilizer link's spacer and through-bolt lengths, and post the data? If anyone has the correct AC-Delco and/or Energy Suspension part number(s), those would be helpful, as well.

Long Version:
I shot myself in the foot. I made the mistake of trashing my old worn out link components before ordering the replacements. I've read that the stabilizer bar should be parallel to the lower control arm, when installed and car is on the wheels on the ground. The first replacement I ordered does not come close to this description. I ordered it from Rock Auto, which had several part numbers for the same part. From the descriptions, it looked like the differences between the parts/numbers accounted only for manufacturer, quantity of links (one, or both sides) and composition of the bushing. Oh, so wrong, LOL. The initial RA part I bought was AC Delco, and was documented as the OEM replacement. The length of the retainer bolt and the spacer were far too long, and the stabilizer bar when connected was at about a 45 or 50 degree angle above the plane of parallel over the lower control arm when on the ground. I returned that unit. Since product dimensions were not documented for any of the parts; paying close attention to the pictures of the parts (looking for shorter spacer/OAL) purchased another. The next version ordered also was too long, and I've long-since returned for a refund.

Before I returned if for refund I got smart. I took out pics of the OEM units in place before the disassembly (below), and the replacement parts, digital caliper, and a calculator. With the aforementioned in hand and assuming the diameter of the spacer in hand is uniform across all replacements, then using the Miracle of Mathematics, specifically Proportioning, I calculated the correct length of the spacer as approximately 2.25". Using this data, I bought from Energy Suspensions P/N 9.8125G. These appear, still, to be too long. by about .75". If my calculations are correct, Energy Suspension PN 9.8120 should be the correct length. But I don't want to spend any more time in ordering without a Warm Fuzzy confirming my thought process.

Any assistance or guidance is greatly appreciated.

OEM before removal, and dimensions needed. (Don't worry, spring spacers removed and springs have been replaced. )


Fitment of first AC Delco unit described as OEM Replacement. The length interferes with the upper Ball Joint castle nut.

 

I use the Energy Suspension p/n 9.8118 set up front of my '72 Cutlass, had also used them on a prior 72 Skylark ragtop project with same stock suspension up front, no clearance issues. In both cases, the same stock front springs, disc brakes and 350 motors (but I'd suspect they'd be compatible with a big block as well)

Pep Boys and probably other local part stores typically have them in stock, about $20 for the set

 

Hey, Good Info, so far guys; thanks! Norm, I appreciate your offer of pictures.

In both of my pics above, the car is on jack stands with no weight on the wheels/suspension. You can see the difference between fitment of the OEM units and the Shiny New aftermarket units. I assume the OEM links are original from the factory. This is based on the fact that the right upper ball joint was still installed with factory rivets. but the left was a bolt-in unit. The car suffered a left front crash at some point. The fender shows evidence of body work, the inner fender shows some old "relaxed" wrinkles, the frame was been straightened, and the spindle and hub replaced with Buick numbered parts. Like Norm, I rebuilt the entire front end with OEM-spec parts except for the springs. This required a Buick-sized bearing on the left hub. This gave me my first inkling of the accident. Only one of my Olds outer bearings fit. When I went looking, I found the rest of the tell-tales. I like my ride a bit higher off the ground, so went with 1" longer springs front and rear. The control arms are OE, with all new bushings.

 

Good point, Norm, thanks! I'll double check.

Yep, it's correct.

 

What your seeing is normal with the car with the wheels hanging in the air up on jack stands. You can flip the bolt and put the threads down to do away with the interference.

 

Thanks for the pics, Norm, much obliged. On the Identification forming, the PIM for '68 shows PN 399924 for a '68 4-4-2:


Eric, I was thinking that at the beginning, but in the pics they sure are different.

 

Yep, will adjust and tighten everything when it is back on its shoes. Thanks, gents!