txrob779

lol, I friggin forgot that the old school drum brakes return spring mounts are well, old school. So, I cannot frigging remember how the brake tool works on this style and/or if I need a different tool/tools?

Anybody got a hint they can throw my way?

As some of you might remember, my car sat 8-9 years with a blown out right front drum brake wheel cylinder and I had a frozen/glued/cemented right front drums to the sub syndrome. I ended up having to get mid evil on it to move the car....Fast forward to last night and I tore into the front brakes and thought I would post a few shots ans ask a few questions.

The backing plate. I have some various hammers and dollies and I think I can hammer it out.
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The rotor I think is toast.
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The cylinder,,,,I chipped it getting mid evil on the removal
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Also, Having used WD40 as a penetrate 12 hours'ish. I ended up rounding the brake lines 3/8" hose nut/ferrel (the nut that screws the line to the rubber line that is clamped to the frame) and my Craftsman Line wrench to the nut....IS it easy to re-install a new ferrel line kit kinda thing cause I am gonna have to cut it off, it's jacked. I have never in 35 years done it before

Lady72nRob71

I have a spring tool but only use it to open the water meter box out front...
I usually use vice grips on the springs along with some good muscle power, or lever them off using the hub. Hard to explain but I have pulled many springs that way when changed many a shoes. I will be doing some in a week or two - need to document how I did it!

classicmuscle442

If you take off the brake shoe hold downs, located at 3 and 9 o'clock and remove the one bottom spring. The adjuster can be walked out and the top springs will come off easily. Then remove emergency brake pinch on clip. The one tool that makes it a lot easier is the hold down tool you buy any auto parts. You can re-install springs with a pair of locking needle nose channelocks or just buy spring spoon with hold down tool, good luck and its a good idea to do one side at a time. Also not that one brake shoe has more material on, I think it goes on right side, can someone confirm.

69442C

I think if the larger shoes were installed on the right side of the car and the smaller ones on the left, the car would pull to the right.

I know what you meant but couldn't help myself. The larger shoe always is installed in rearward position. B to B...Big toward Back.

Brian

txrob779

That part I do remember Brian...I remember using needle nose pliers and screw drivers to work on the drum brakes of my 69 Camaro. I just can't remember if there is a "good " tool.

I still struggle with the 2 handed, back the adjuster OFF thing....I have failed twice at that already....

Anybody ever straightened a slightly bend backing plate?
Also, I WILL SEARCH here but....is there a thread somewhere that has a tutorial for rebuilding the parking brake system? Mine is frozen solid.

69442C

Here are 3 tools for working on drum brakes if you wanted to get specific tools for your brakes. As has been mentioned, there are other ways to accomplish the task but these are the tools made for that task. I pulled these from a Sears website and I'm sure there are other places that sell them, quite possibly Harbor Freight.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-brake...8&blockType=G8

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-brake...9&blockType=G9

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-adjus...&blockType=G18

As for the backing plate, I would think you'll need to make sure it is straight so the shoes operate inside the drum correctly and you will also want the area where the shoes slide on that backing plate to be smooth. Don't forget to put a small amount of grease where the shoes ride on the backing plate so it doesn't cause wear.

Brian

txrob779

I'm an idiot I guess LOL I have all 3 of those. I guess I am drawing more of a blank in how it USE that first to pull th big spring off the W shaped flange that attaches above the cylinder. What I mean is on newer drums those spring both attach to the singe pin mount and u squeeze the to toll and twist and it pops those springs off. I am having a brain fart blank hot to take THESE off (below)


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oldcutlass

The 3 tools that Brian posted is all you need to remove, install, and adjust the brakes. I remove both wheels and drums fronts or rears, and leave one side intact to use as a guide in case I forget how it went together. This way you can compare.


Rob, those shoes look like new, just check the wheel cylinder, clean, adjust and bleed. Clean and inspect wheel bearings, replace as needed, and pack with grease. Replace the seals as required.

69442C

If you look at the brake pliers, at the bottom of one of the handles is a round section which is hollow in the center and there is a small button that sticks out. The intent is insert the hollow section on the retainer and use the button to get under the spring as you rotate the pliers. Once the button is under the spring you can maneuver the pliers to pull the spring forward and off the hook. To install the spring, the other side of the handle has a groove in it and you place that groove on the hook, slide the spring end over the handle and maneuver the tool so the spring is slid along the handle and into place on the hook. The "pliers" end of the tool is something I rarely use. If I need to bend the spring a little to close the end of the spring a little, I use a pair of pliers or wire cutters to grab it and bend it closed a little more. I hope this explanation helps.

Brian

txrob779

Thanks Eric and Brian...I swear this is test of humilty..I am a stinking gear head but at 50..I have learned there aint no shame is asking opinions and getting suggestions other than just tearing **** up LOL...


Eric,

You know I had a weird cerebellar stroke in August and some of my memory is foggy and in flux. I am thinking I re-shoed all 4 brakes in 1998...I should have about 200-400 miles on em. I mean I had to other wise I would of had to stop my car like Fred Flintson right,,,Yabba dabba DO!!!!!!!!!!!!! BTW that pick is of the driver side front.