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I will post pictures here, I took out the old sail panels from my Starfire, someone else had made them with carpet and cardboard, they also had the trim all messed up around the back window. I decided I’d take them out, and try my handing and making my own, and discovered that the courtesy light wires are still there and hot. However they are taped up. Seems like the door switches are having no effect on the current going to these. They seem to just be staying continuously hot. Would the problem be in the door switches?
I did the painting used arches watercolor paper adhered to an archival foam core. I want the courtesy lights to go in the space behind the mermaid’s hair. I want to be able to put the lights where the wires are coming out.
The orange wire is always hot. The white wire is switched to ground by the door jamb switches. Take a look at the wiring diagram in the chassis service manual.
the orange wire is always hot. The white wire is switched to ground by the door jamb switches. Take a look at the wiring diagram in the chassis service manual.
I have unequivocally no idea if this will assist you but here's a 1965 Wiring Diagram. I most likely will catch a wrath of $HIT for posting, but there may be the slightest/remotest chance this 'could' assist you. I accept no responsibility for incorrect information and this is, in fact, a disclaimer.
I most likely will catch a wrath of $HIT for posting,
Oh, yeah...
Originally Posted by Hillbilllystarfire
Took a picture with my phone and used it to zoom in.
I don't know where you got that CSM, but my original is in color and is MUCH easier to read. Your courtesy lights are at the bottom center, and you can see the always-powered orange and the switched ground white wires.
The black and white is from my service manual. Where can someone get a color version. That would be so helpful
Buy an original on ebay, not a cheezy reprint. The originals are color and don't look like a photocopy of a third generation fax. The 1964 manual is made up of five individual books. This set is currently $60 on ebay.
The electrical section is in Book 4. Here's just that volume, currently $8.99 on ebay.
Yes I have the cheesy photocopied looking one. I got into the panel where the door switch is and found that the switch only has one wire going to it and the other is disconnected. It looks
like the connection on the switch is actually broken off. Will I need to McGyver a new switch? Or is there an actual replacement on the market? A General
search on those switches doesn’t seem to give the right results unless I change the connectors in the wires etc.
Last edited by Hillbilllystarfire; Apr 3, 2021 at 05:22 AM.
Or is there an actual replacement on the market? A General
search on those switches doesn’t seem to give the right results unless I change the connectors in the wires etc.
I think the URL link w/ picture I posted above is the correct door jamb light switch for a 1964 Starfire. Out of Stock via CARID but available via American Autowire.
Depending on the coding of URL pages & rendering of results, often times "Search" URLs do not maintain static (non-changing) results as the back-end DB needs to be called up separately for each 'Search' parameter. Confusing, but it's in the coding itself.
Depending on the coding of URL pages & rendering of results, often times "Search" URLs do not maintain static (non-changing) results as the back-end DB needs to be called up separately for each 'Search' parameter. Confusing, but it's in the coding itself.
Yeah, that's exactly what it was. The search terms didn't get picked up in the URL for the page. If you go to my link then type door jamb switch into the search box, then you get the page I was hoping to link to.
Yeah, that's exactly what it was. The search terms didn't get picked up in the URL for the page. If you go to my link then type door jamb switch into the search box, then you get the page I was hoping to link to.
I completely understand. What happens is essentially the creation of a 'snapshot' Search field. The big dogs (Amazon, Google, etc., etc.) will write code to maintain the Search snapshot - which means the URL result of a Search (containing the Search parameters) will be maintained as a snapshot so the results are rendered the same each time the URL link is instantiated. If a coder does not write (encode) a snapshot URL then select Search parameters must be entered every time since the front-end (Web Page [URL]) must talk to the back-end DB for every single Search. More advanced coding also requires more overhead on front-end-to-back-end coding and that's why some perform this function well and others not so much.
Doesn’t look like any of those. I’ll get a picture of mine when I get home. Mine looks plastic. With two flat female connectors. You slide the two male wires into it.
Looking forward to a picture of your switch. Your current switch may be incorrect. Generally you have one wire as depicted in pictures above leading into door jamb switch and it is the ground wire. The hot wire would lead to the lamp. With the door closed, the door jam switch breaks (isolates) contact to ground creating an open circuit and no illumination. When the door is opened, the door jamb switch makes contact to ground and completes the circuit thus illuminating the lamp.
Take a good picture, generally the door jamb switch is a single contact switch with one wire (ground). I just find it surprising you have two wires leading to the current door jamb switch, not certain about a 1964 Starfire door jamb switch though.
The metal-body threaded pin switch will not work on 64 fullsize car. Look at the 4th switch from top in that screenshot. Even though it says 57-60 pretty sure it's same as 64 FSC. That's going by the switches on my two 64s, which snap into the doorjamb.
They also have a rubber boot which is often missing.
Last edited by rocketraider; Apr 3, 2021 at 04:11 PM.
Drivers side door switch. Has the rubber nipple or boot on the other side. One connection is broke at the switch. It has a white wire and a white wire with a black stripe. Passenger door switch. No rubber in other side Passenger button
The metal-body threaded pin switch will not work on 64 fullsize car. Look at the 4th switch from top in that screenshot. Even though it says 57-60 pretty sure it's same as 64 FSC. That's going by the switches on my two 64s, which snap into the doorjamb. They also have a rubber boot which is often missing.
Here is a picture of that switch Rocket referred to which does look like one of your switches from the pictures you provided. It's certainly a double-contact switch as opposed to a single contact switch. Hard to imagine Vendors could mislabel parts - not!
Generally, as Joe stated, the orange wire is constant hot wire source. The orange wire (we can see at the sail panel) and we can see one near one of the switches in your picture is coming from a constant hot power source. That constant power source orange wire is going to go to one side of the light assembly you're holding in your hand & the white wire to the other side of the light assembly. That same white wire (from the sail panel) will run to one side (pole) of the door jamb light switch while the other white wire (or white + black wire) will run to the other side (pole) of the door jamb switch and then to a common ground point. You just need to determine which wire (white wire or white wire + black stripe) runs to the light assembly from the door jamb switch and which wire (white wire or white wire + black stripe) runs to a common ground. Assuming there are no ground faults in the circuit, you should be good-to-go. You can use a simple test light to confirm the circuit. A wiring diagram would help, but it's a pretty simple circuit - ground + power source - you need to follow the wires. BTW, very nice art work.
Test Light
Last edited by Vintage Chief; Apr 4, 2021 at 05:08 AM.
Reason: sp
Let's review the wiring diagram again, because a test light isn't really going to help here.
There is no power at that switch. The switch simply connects the ground side of the lamps to the body ground. The white wire is the ground side of the dome and rear quarter lamps. The white with black stripe wire is the ground side from the under dash and console courtesy lamps. There is only one contact inside the switch and it connects both terminals on the back of the switch to the body when the plunger is released.
Correct, there is no power to that switch. Both white wires connect to that switch - it is a ground interrupt switch. Well, at least we now know the white wire + black stripe is the common ground point, so the white wire is the one which feeds from the other side of the door jamb light switch up to the light assembly. Simply following the wires & a simple test light would confirm this circuit. A very simple circuit.
You can use a test light to test for voltage at the switches if the switch is in the open circuit position. It will read voltage through the lamps at the switch if no ground is there.
You can use a test light to test for voltage at the switches if the switch is in the open circuit position. It will read voltage through the lamps at the switch if no ground is there.
Yes, but at a reduced voltage due to the resistance of the filament.
