Hi All,
New guy here, I am hoping for some help on the Identification of my Olds. The third picture is a tag that is on an extra set of keys that came with the car. The car has been in the family since 1992. Thank you!

 

The third picture is a Rochester Products carburetor tag. Looks like March of 1965 and it's for a 330-2BBL in a F-85 or Jetstar 88.

 

Thanks, v8al. That is good to know! Do you know anything about the cowl tag?

 

Give this a spin >>> https://www.tpocr.com/oldsbp4.html

7025058 is the Rochester carburetor model number.

 

10E= Body assembled in the fifth week of October 1963
Style 64-3267= 1964 F-85 "Cutlass" convertible
Body LA 1443 = 1443rd of that style assembled at Lansing MI.
Trim 968 = "saddle" (brown) interior
Paint E = "Jade mist " (dark green) metallic

 

Same color as mine! Jade Mist metallic

 

Thank you! There was NO ACC listed, what does that mean?

 

No called out accessories installed beyond standard equipment.

 

At least none that would affect the Fisher Body assembly process.

 

So ‘64’s only got a 10 digit VIN?
12 started in ‘65?

 

I thought the VIN number occupied thirteen 13 alphanumeric characters beginning 1965?

 

Without having to jump through a series of copy/paste diagram/drawing routines from the two (1964 & 1965) model years here is the pertinent information from each model year in the obvious pages of the assembly manuals:

1964
1965

 

13 character VINs started in 1965.

For 1964, Oldsmobile VINs were extremely simple. The first character is either a 6 or an 8, indicating the number of engine cylinders. The second character is a number indicating the series, with 0 = F-85, 1 = F-85 Deluxe, 2 = Cutlass, 3 = Jetstar 88 and on up. The third character is a 4, indicating the model year, the fourth character is a letter indicating the assembly plant, and the last six numbers are the production sequence number.

In 1965, VINs became more informative with the first digit a 3 indicating Oldsmobile division, two numbers indicating the series, two numbers indicating body style, then model year, assembly plant, and production sequence number.

 

Thanks Jaunty! That clears it up

 

Thank you all for the help, I guess I need some more, LOL. I have been reading some threads and now I am starting to question the engine if the car is an early production "64". Can anyone tell just from looking at pics what motor is in it? The timing marks are on the driver's side of the motor. (What I call left side, not sure what year that changed) The heads have a #2 on them by the spark plug on cylinder #1 & #8.
Do I need to remove the alternator (right/passenger side) or the power steering pump (left/drivers side) to see the head code? They are not on the firewall side it seems.

 

The stamped engine unit code should be visible without removing the alternator. The real question is, has the engine been changed or just the water pump? The 1964-only water pumps can be difficult to source. The far more common 1965-newer pumps bolt onto a 64 motor but require changing the timing tab and balancer. Late production 1964 330s came from the factory with #2 heads, however your car was built fifth week of October, 1963, so it would not have had the #2 heads from the factory.

 

Finally, had some more time to get some pictures to figure this car out. I am wondering if the motor is from different car. The Air Cleaner does have JETFIRE on it.

 

387491 is a 1965 2bbl intake.
The water pump is a 1964-only pump with the drive side inlet but the timing tab is 1965-up.
As we've noted above, number 2 heads were phased into production late in the 1964 model year and used through the 1965 production. They would not have been factory installed on your early-production 1964 car.

Bottom line is that all signs point to this being a 1965 motor that was swapped into your car at some time in the last 60 years. The incorrect matchup of the water pump and balancer/timing tab pretty much confirms this. All 1964 motors had the timing tab on the passenger side and a different balancer as a result.

 

Thanks Joe. Thanks Joe. Sounds like I have a mutt! LOL. What would you say the compression is? Can the water pump be rebuilt, it seems like the engine runs very hot, I don't have a temp gauge setup unless there is a suggestion.

 

There is no way of knowing the CR from the outside of the engine. Yes, water pumps can be rebuilt. Without a temp gauge you have no idea if the engine is running hot. Is it losing coolant?