dont know where to ask this question but what oil is best for my 1972 350 4bbl cutlass

 

My engine builder told me to run rotella t 15-40 for diesels is best for a flat tappet cam engine. He said it has Zink and some other additives.

 

I moved your question to your own thread.


There have been many discussions on this subject. I use Valvoline Racing oil (for street use) it has an additive package (ZDDP) suitable for flat tappet cams not found in the newer name brands due to emission regulations.


The diesel oils do not have the proper amount of ZDDP anymore.

 

Just use Joe Gibbs 5-30 it has all the Zink you need and it's formulated for gas engines. They also make a straight 30 break in oil that is super heavy with Zink.

 

I will also take that advice.

 

How do you feel about royal purple synthetic after and during break in for flat tappet?

 

zinc

 

Ok cool, I will see if it on there!

 

thank you.

 

Any time.

 

Brad Penn,it's the old Kendall oil and has the correct additive. On another note,my engine guys are telling me that adding ZDDP to regular oil is proving not to be the correct method. It seems that it's not mixing with the oil like it should on occasions. They are in constant contact with Comp Cams,so they are on top of the latest info. By the time you buy the oil and the additive,it comes out to about the same. If their info is correct and I have no doubt it is,the oil with the additive already blended in would be the way to go.

 

A Zink is where they wash dishes in Bawlmer, right? or should it be

Z was once a piece of zinc,
Tinky, Winky, Blinky, Tinky, Tinkly minky, Piece of zinc!

(Apologies to Edward Lear- a true mad genius.)

Oil is a subjective thing and I tend to subscribe to the oil is oil idea a retired Olds Zone service manager taught me. Just make sure it's appropriate for the engine's use and that it's changed according to the way the engine is run.

But, as pointed out in the other thread, Olds and Cadillac thought highly of Kendall for their factory fill oil and Kendall apparently gave them good prices. You probably wouldn't go wrong using the Bradford Pennsylvania brand it evolved into, if you can find it. I'd have to order it to get it here.

Since me local rural post office has cut back to opening only four hours a day, picking up stuff that comes in larger packages has become cumbersome. Add in new company policy that eliminated all flexibility in our schedule (meaning if I'm at work less than 8 hours, I have to take vacation time to make my scheduled hours work out to 8 each day) and I think twice about ordering anything that might come via USPS. It's gotten to where UPS and FedEx aren't any better options if it requires a signature on delivery.

I don't see the value in having to take vacation time to handle simple binness, but it's what happens when you get caught up in a merger.

 

great thank you!

 

Valvoline 30 wt. racing oil.
Great for the warmer climates too.

 

ok so i got my oil changed, they used conventional formula shell 5w30

Can i just add a zinc additive? to up the zinc, i went to napa today but all they had was "Lucas engine break in additive TB ZIC-PLUS" will this stuff F**k my engine or is it worthy

 

I use 10-30 Valvoline Race oil. No need to add zinc. But, not available where I live, so I have to order it from the big city/Albuquerque through the local NAPA store. Using NAPA/WIX filters too. But that's another topic.

 

Not sure about the Lucas. but 5-w30 is thin.
No rattling? Great stuff for the boys up in Canada.
10-30 is a little better for the warmer climates.

 

15W 40-all my diesels
Did use straight 10 in summer...now 5w30..the daily drivers year around
10w30 in the 455's

 

AMSOIL Z-Rod 10W-30 in the Cutlass

AMSOIL 5W-40 in the diesel. Starts great even at -20*.

 

yea i had alot of ticking but i took off my valve covers today and the lifter was sticking a bit and also had a loose rocker. i added some of that lucas additive in and ran for about 30 minutes, dont know if im imaging things but it seemed to smooth out. ill be sure to use a oil with more zinc the next time i get my oil changed

 

I was at NAPA today and asked the same question. Yes, throw in the Lucas with your conventional oil of choice, and that's it. That's what I have in my crank case right now.

 

Amsoil in the 2 Cummins powered trucks.


I used to run Shell Rotella 15W40 in all my cars. Once my supply of CI4 rated oils was used up I switched over to Brad Penn & Joe Gibbs oils. The CJ rated Shell Rotella does not meet the demands of our vintage engines.

 

In past years, I always used GM Engine Oil Supplement at every oil change; but I worked as a MOPAR tech for 16 years, and switched to Mopar EOS, as both provided the proper amount of ZDDP for flat tappet camshaft engines. I am not sure if either of these additives are still available, as a LOT has changed in the past 40 years!!

Today's engines utilize roller camshafts/lifters and catalytic converters not used back then, for various reasons, both environmental and emissions/fuel economy related! Also, today's fuel does not contain lead additives that were used back then to protect valve seats. To further complicate this, today's fuel has ethanol added, which is VERY detrimental to older vehicle's fuel systems, which are not designed for the corrosive properties of alcohol based fuels!!

For a very good read, go here:

http://zddplus.com/products/zddplus-oil-additive/

Although I have not used this product, at least it explains the problem with today's oils and the fact that your older cars are NOT compatible with today's engine oils.

 

x2

 

I just use Brad Penn racing oil because my builder recommended it and it says on the bottle that it is for older cars.

 

Does summit have it? How much a quart?

 

You really think we drive our precious time machines up here in the winter?? The dog sled union would have us sacked so fast it would make our blood thaw......

Amsoil Z Rod is specially formulated for flat tappet cams and fairly easy to get.

 

I just did a search online and found a dealer in my area. The bottle says "historic, Muscle, Classic, Race. Its a partial synthetic high performance oil. 20W-50

 

As Allen's example shows there are plenty of choices, many of which may be just fine. Just make sure it is formulated for your engine.

 

4-5/quart is not unusual up here. In fact synthetics are around 10-12/qt in some stores. Note: in Canada it's sold in litres - close enough to a quart. Look at the oil as the engines blood and all of a sudden it's easier to justify having a healthy running car.

 

agree definitely.

 

Even easier if you are a dealer or PC.

 

Hey guys would the later 70's still need to run with the Zinc additive, I have never run it in my 76 350 maybe I better start ?

 

Anything with a flat tappets. So yup - that's you. UNLESS on your rebuild you went with roller lifters/rockers on your rebuild?

 

Thanks Allan I had no idea no roller lifters/rockers here, I just use the Valvoline quick lube center here never even thought to ask for it. I've only use their basic 10-30 service no synthetic.
I will defiantly start using it .


I have no idea where to buy amsoil synthetic zrod .... performance improvements just stocks royal purple now , Canadian tire doesn't have it here, you guys have any idea where I could pic some up ?

 

I looked into this a lot towards the end of last summer. Responses vary soo much, and oil can change at any day. Diesel oils may have more zddp, but probably not what there was when the cars were made.

Another factor to think about is price for these Boutique oils like Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs. Is it worth $8 a quart when regular oil is only $4 a quart. Did the people who owned our cars for the last 25k miles care? Probably not. Will it even make a difference? I don't know.

I had a cracked valve cover at one point and I lost about a quart of oil on the way to a cruise night last summer. I pulled over about a mile from the show and there was a nice guy with a barracuda in the driveway. He cmae over asked what was wrong I explained it and he gave me two quarts of Accel Brand 10-40. I figured I would use it to get home and change it. It seemed like "cheap oil". I started looking into it and the specs on it are right on par with other major oils, and the ZDDP is 1100 ppm. Which is right about what the older cars "require".

I did an oil change with all the Accel oil and I noticed it seemed to stay cleaner, longer. Not sure if that has to do with the expensive filter I used or not, I think it was one of those STP good for 12k miles filter(I'll still change it at 3500). And the oil is only around $3 a quart.

I looked into trying to do an oil test for a design project in college, but the variables were too great. If I did one test in June, one in july, and one in August, temperature/idle time, etc all vary widely on a street driven car, the oil test results could be skewed. Aguust oil might be the best, but because of environmental factors it broke down quciker, etc.

I guess what I'm saying is there are a lot of opinions on this matter, and everything thinks they're right. If I had a 100k w-30, would I spend the extra $35 per oil change, yeah probably. Is it worth it, I dunno. For a 12k cutlass, with a low comp 350, ehh.. It probably doesn't matter much. Not to say I don't baby the car and change the oil frequently, I do. I just not sure it's worth jumping to a boutique oil at this point. I don't know when the motor was rebuilt, whatever damage is already done, and I feel a lot of us are in that boat, if you aren't sitting on a fresh rebuild.

Just my $.02

 

Castrol motorcycle oil is rated CG so it's zinc amount is right up there. newest oils are CN rated and that equates to lower zinc content. You can buy the motorcycle oil at Wallmart and Canadian Tire
joepenoso

 

I and others have posted this in many discussions on oil. It's a long read but very informative. From about the middle of the blog you can see the test results of a lot of different brands of oil.


http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

 

I use Chevron Delo and also use ZDDP I get my additive from Greg Rollin at Supercars unlimited He is a Olds only guy and has worked hard to supply all of us with great parts and advice for years.

 

[QUOTE=oldcutlass;659366]I and others have posted this in many discussions on oil. It's a long read but very informative. From about the middle of the blog you can see the test results of a lot of different brands of oil.


http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/


Thanks for posting that Eric !!! I had a looksie.... lots of information ther. I haven't seen the prolong additive in a long time but I had tried it in my 93 lumina Z34 back in the day. It was a little pricey if I remember $40.00 for the small bottle but came with a decal in the box.