Best quality points
#2
I've always liked Echlin points from NAPA. They seem to have a stronger spring than the AC points. I've never used points from one of the performance suppliers but then my car never even comes near the redline.
Cheers, Mike
Cheers, Mike
#5
I've always liked the Blue Streak line from Standard - they were always better constructed (I haven't seen new ones lately, though).
Whatever brand you use, it's usually best to buy NOS (American-made) if you can find them, rather than brand-new manufacture, which is probably Chinese.
- Eric
Whatever brand you use, it's usually best to buy NOS (American-made) if you can find them, rather than brand-new manufacture, which is probably Chinese.
- Eric
#8
#9
That is also good to know too Eric, (other).
For as much driving it as I do, maybe 150-200 mi
a month at the most on an average, the Vette
unit may work out well for me.
I do admit I am a fan of points and condensors
on my older, Olds iron.
You would think I would know which is best.
For as much driving it as I do, maybe 150-200 mi
a month at the most on an average, the Vette
unit may work out well for me.
I do admit I am a fan of points and condensors
on my older, Olds iron.
You would think I would know which is best.
#10
I always used Mallory 102X points and Mallory 401 condenser. Had great luck with them for both wear and stability at higher rpm's. As stated above, be sure the rubbing block is clean and well lubed with the proper Delco cam lube (if it is still available....lol!).
I have a set of these new in box NOS Mallory, if you are interested! Shoot me a PM!
Note: these parts are NEW...and probably over 30 years old....pretty sure they are not made in China!!
Last edited by R-body_mopar; January 30th, 2014 at 07:36 AM.
#12
Note that the difference between "regular" points and "Corvette" points is that the Corvette points have a stronger spring, which moves up the speed at which the points begin to float by a thousand or so RPMs.
If you are using a more-or-less stock Olds engine and transmission, which is shifting at around 4,500 RPM, you won't gain any benefit from these, but if you are pushing it to 5,000 you probably will.
If you are going above 5,000 RPM, it is probably advisable to get an electronic unit, of whatever kind, as this is where points begin to show their inherent weaknesses.
There is nothing wrong with using the stronger-spring points on other engines, except, as I mentioned, that the stronger spring pressure will cause the rubbing block to wear a bit faster.
I don't know about Delco, but the higher-quality points used to come with a tiny dab of cam grease in the package.
If you need more, Summit has Mallory cam lube grease, and Bosch cam lube grease (#5 700 002 005) can be obtained easily from various German-car aftermarket suppliers.
- Eric
If you are using a more-or-less stock Olds engine and transmission, which is shifting at around 4,500 RPM, you won't gain any benefit from these, but if you are pushing it to 5,000 you probably will.
If you are going above 5,000 RPM, it is probably advisable to get an electronic unit, of whatever kind, as this is where points begin to show their inherent weaknesses.
There is nothing wrong with using the stronger-spring points on other engines, except, as I mentioned, that the stronger spring pressure will cause the rubbing block to wear a bit faster.
If you need more, Summit has Mallory cam lube grease, and Bosch cam lube grease (#5 700 002 005) can be obtained easily from various German-car aftermarket suppliers.
- Eric
#13
Great info guys.
And yes 66 3X2, I use the
Standard cap and rotor
with the copper contacts.
These type units have worked very
well for me over the years.
No way would I spin this one up past
5K... Well, maybe once in a while, it is
an E block.
And yes 66 3X2, I use the
Standard cap and rotor
with the copper contacts.
These type units have worked very
well for me over the years.
No way would I spin this one up past
5K... Well, maybe once in a while, it is
an E block.
#14
I used to have good luck with Accel. I used the heavy springs on my 69 Corvette, because the std. spring points wouldn't let my engine rev to the 6000 rpm redline. But the rubbing block, even with grease, wore out in 2-3000 miles. Heavy spring does nothing for 0-5000 rpms. Also, the heavy spring is also harder on the distributor shaft cam that opens and closes the points. I had one break loose and needed to replace the distributor.
#15
As stated, the NAPA Echlin points and Standard Ignition Blue Streak points are (at least were) the better quality parts and therefore cost a bit more. Way, way better quality than the cheaper points.
Back in the day I worked at a NAPA store and learned that the NAPA/Echlin points were the same as the Accel points. There were "Street" points with 23 ounce springs and "Performance" points with 32 ounce springs. Don't know if that is still the case today.
Anyway, I used the Echlin 23 ounce Street points (they were cheaper than the 32 ounce Performance points) and would take the spring from my old set and add it to the sew set. With the stiffer double spring, the points would go to 6000 RPM with no bounce.
Back in the day I worked at a NAPA store and learned that the NAPA/Echlin points were the same as the Accel points. There were "Street" points with 23 ounce springs and "Performance" points with 32 ounce springs. Don't know if that is still the case today.
Anyway, I used the Echlin 23 ounce Street points (they were cheaper than the 32 ounce Performance points) and would take the spring from my old set and add it to the sew set. With the stiffer double spring, the points would go to 6000 RPM with no bounce.
#18
Speaking of 400 E blocks, what IS the top end on those?
The Rallye Pac I have for the car, which came from a different car, has no red line on the tach.
I seem to recall WOT throttle 1st into 2nd going right when my friend yelled let off on the first time we drove it.
The Rallye Pac I have for the car, which came from a different car, has no red line on the tach.
I seem to recall WOT throttle 1st into 2nd going right when my friend yelled let off on the first time we drove it.
#20
The best set of points on the planet.....
The best set of points on the planet forever has been the Standard BLUE STREAK points -- which is all copper contacts, has the screw for adjustment, and has the additional little brakcet with a "wick" -- keep it "wet" with cam lube and you'll never need to rebuild a distributor....
Standard discontinued making the BLUE STREAK line 2 years ago -- but I still have plenty...............
Give me a call -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935.... New York.....
Standard discontinued making the BLUE STREAK line 2 years ago -- but I still have plenty...............
Give me a call -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935.... New York.....
#23
#25
wow..not a mention of Borg Warner HP points...by far the best points ive ever used..as far as reliablity and durability
i have TONS of NOS points..BW Accel...GM....and a bunch of american made stuff
i have TONS of NOS points..BW Accel...GM....and a bunch of american made stuff
#26
Pulled the engine and rebuilt it....and used better parts......could crank 6500 or more......but probably should not have.......BUT...it sure was FUN!
A buddy of mine bought a 1967 442 post coupe NEW, special ordered with wide ratio 4spd, and 3.55 anti spin rear end and stripe delete.....sure surprised the crap out of many a Chevy....!! The post coupe is much more stable than the hardtop or convertible......!
tru-blue 442, PM has been sent! Thanks!
#27
I always used Mallory 102X points and Mallory 401 condenser. Had great luck with them for both wear and stability at higher rpm's. As stated above, be sure the rubbing block is clean and well lubed with the proper Delco cam lube (if it is still available....lol!).
I have a set of these new in box NOS Mallory, if you are interested! Shoot me a PM!
Note: these parts are NEW...and probably over 30 years old....pretty sure they are not made in China!!
I have a set of these new in box NOS Mallory, if you are interested! Shoot me a PM!
Note: these parts are NEW...and probably over 30 years old....pretty sure they are not made in China!!
Just a bump to the top, as I have not heard from you, Adam! Wondering if you still wanted these?
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