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455 Engine Rebuilt

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Old Apr 21, 2012 | 08:11 AM
  #1  
Freddy B's Avatar
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455 Engine Rebuilt

Hello Olds enthusiast, I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme with a 455 under the hood. When I raise the hood I want to close it instantly. I want to put a new intake manifold, carb, cylinder heads, ignition with a set of blue spark plug wires, and exhaust manifold on the 455. I'm also working with a low budget but I want quality parts. What parts do you suggest I use on this build. Also do you suggest I change the pistons and how hard would that be to do in my garage at home.
Old Apr 21, 2012 | 08:24 AM
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What do you consider to be a low budget. and what are you exceptions. Mild street build, street/strip build. Need a little more input from you. There are a number of choices and combinations using mostly stock stuff or aftermarket add ins.
Old Apr 21, 2012 | 09:05 AM
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I'm looking to build a street car that I can drive somewhat daily. I want to see what I can do for less than $2000. Not looking for high performance parts just something that is really reliable.
Old Apr 21, 2012 | 09:30 AM
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Here are some pictures of whats under the hood now. I have eldebrock valve covers, intake manifold, msd ignition optima battery, and new alternator.
455 Engine.jpg

455 Engine2.jpg

455 Engine3.jpg
Old Apr 21, 2012 | 09:56 AM
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If the engine's running good, for the kind of money you're talking, really think a good cosmetic restoration's about all you'd be looking at. I'm talking, getting an engine picker, engine stand, pulling the engine, then let the clean up begin. Talking engine strip/repaint, timing chain, water pump, maybe intake, cam, exhaust headers, ext. Underhood clean up/painting's gonna be lot's of work too. You'll really wonder where the money all went. Be honest with yourself, and keep note of every last little item purchased. I build engines in my garage quite often, so maybe know a few things. Lot's of specialty tools needed from the beginning. Built my cars 455 up from a bare block. With all the machine work, crank, rods, pistons, custom heads, ext, not sure of the total cost, but multiple times the mentioned $2K for sure.
Old Apr 21, 2012 | 12:28 PM
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247223_2127625512548_1303240060_2540607_2691872_n[1].jpg

253998_2127626072562_1303240060_2540609_8305985_n[1].jpg

2K in my opinion can get you quite far. I put something like 1100 dollars into my engine and got it looking like this. I didnt go to far but I put a new Edelbrock Intake, Carb 750 Cfm, Headers, cam and lifter, double timing chain and gear and a few toher internal components. As long as you keep trackof the money you're you should do well.
Old Jun 10, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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Thanks DeltaPace, the special tools will be an issue because I don't have any idea as to what I will need.

Hey Alex, that engine bay looks great compared to mine, did you do the work yourself? I have been repairing electrical wiring in vehicles for the military for over 18yrs. I wanted to do the work on my cutlass but this is a demanding profession and I have limited off time. Were all the parts you installed on your car merely bolt on or did you have to use special tools for anything?
Old Jun 10, 2012 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 69CutlassAlex
Attachment 44478

Attachment 44479

2K in my opinion can get you quite far. I put something like 1100 dollars into my engine and got it looking like this. I didnt go to far but I put a new Edelbrock Intake, Carb 750 Cfm, Headers, cam and lifter, double timing chain and gear and a few toher internal components. As long as you keep trackof the money you're you should do well.
Nice job I gave up on keeping track of money a long time ago. It hurts so bad!
Old Jun 10, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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Actually, most of the mentioned specialty tools like piston ring compressors, are really only needed if building an engine up from scratch. You can rent things like engine pickers and harmonic balance pullers, but engine stands really aren't expensive, and needed when working on the engine out of the car. If you do buy a picker, careful of the cheapies with 40" booms, as sometimes won't reach much of anything. Lifting plates that mount in place of the carburetor, are good to have, and not very expensive.
Old Jun 10, 2012 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Freddy B
Thanks DeltaPace, the special tools will be an issue because I don't have any idea as to what I will need.

Hey Alex, that engine bay looks great compared to mine, did you do the work yourself? I have been repairing electrical wiring in vehicles for the military for over 18yrs. I wanted to do the work on my cutlass but this is a demanding profession and I have limited off time. Were all the parts you installed on your car merely bolt on or did you have to use special tools for anything?
Here is a more updated photo of my engine compartment. The other pics were from last summer. Since then ive removed my A/C and painted my fender wells. All the work I did with my father, all home done. With anywhere from 1100-1500 I put in an Edelbrock .472 Cam and lifter set, a 455 performer intake, 750cfm Edelbrock electric choke carb, Comp double timing chain and gears, headers,2.5" Summit exhaust system, water pump, oil pump, fluids, seals and gaskets, and various dress up items. I also have plans to get some new spark plug wires soon, maybe yellow ones as well as other little dress up items.
Old Jun 10, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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Huh for some reason I cant upload the new pics, ill get on it to see if I can find why.
Old Dec 31, 2012 | 03:03 PM
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Alex, I would really like to see what it looks like under that hood now.
Old Dec 31, 2012 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Freddy B
Alex, I would really like to see what it looks like under that hood now.
Here are those update pictures, more to come this summer! Thanks for the interest!
Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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Love the a/c delete. You have a nice looking engine bay.
Old Jan 2, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Freddy B
Love the a/c delete. You have a nice looking engine bay.

Thanks friend! I appreciate it!
Old Jan 2, 2013 | 02:32 PM
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I agree that 2 k won't get you very far if starting from scratch, but it could improve an already good running machine. You can also try to pick up parts as guys often change their direction hot rod look to stock, and put the parts up on the for sale forum , eBay, Craigslist etc

If your goal is cosmetic well that is a very decent budget, just make sure the motor is sound enough before spending money on add ons, take a compression test, look under the valve covers etc etc, then start with the basics , degrease the whole thing, power wash etc, and have a plan.

If your doing the intake, then try running a parts wanted, stock 4 bbl manifolds are cheap but expensive to ship, or if you have a 4 bbl Mani consider sending the Carb for a rebuild, if required, while its getting rebuilt you can repaint the manifold etc. Taking the engine out is pretty straight forward but requires knowledge and the place to do it,

It is possible to repaint the motor in the car, but not practical if that makes sense? But you could remove the pulleys brackets etc, detail them and the front of the engine etc. This could be accomplished in a weekend or two. But if you can not install your own cam, and have to pay then it starts getting expensive, again have a plan, if doing the cam, then lifters Need to be changed, then maybe the rocker arms, while your there the timing chain. all of this is basic tool stuff, you can indeed get a manifold, Carb and find a cam. And kit, but this also requires tuning, and depending on what you picked additional required changes ie exhaust, shift kit, gears etc which will eat your 2 k rapidly.just some thoughts
Old Feb 22, 2013 | 08:48 AM
  #17  
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I have been doing some searches on the internet to get information on which cam should I use. I read that changing the cam requires changing the pushrods, lifters, valve springs, and rockers because the stock setup is not adjustable. Has anyone replaced these on a stock 455 with stock heads. Engine runs find now but I want to put a new cam setup in it for street performance. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Old Feb 22, 2013 | 11:20 AM
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Engine camshaft bore, limits how big of camshaft will fit in there. Stock camshaft grinds have a certain minimum base circle, that limits how high valve lift will be. Most high lift aftermarket camshaft grinds have a smaller base circle, to allow for proportionally taller lobe grinds. This is usually taken up with longer pushrod length. You can either use a combination of longer pushrods and rocker arm pedistal shims on an Olds non adjustible valvetrain, or better yet, get an aftermarket performance adjustible valvetrain kit. My last 455 build uses a Dave Smith Olds adjustible valvetrain kit. Has longer pushrods and poly-lock rocker nuts that set up just like a small block Chevy. Really the only way to go.
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