What is the difference between the 2 pans? I was looking at my 350 pan the other day and it has a massive big wallop on the front edge (where it came from I would have to ask my brother). I also have a 73 oil pan from a 455 sitting outside that is in excellent condition other than being dirty. Is there a difference in bolt holes, or is it something to do with the seals?
Don't know if when I take off the 350 oil pan I can bang it back into shape without damaging it.

 

the 455 mounts the same but has an extra hump, so to speak, by the crossmember.

 

Does the 'hump' create any clearance issues with the car body or crossmember?

 

NO it does not. Also, the sump on a 455 oil pan has a trianlge shaped sheet metal "windage tray" welded to the front of the sump to keep oil in the sump from going to the front of the pan on hard breaking. This allowed some oil to stay in the sump to keep the oil pump from straving of oil.

BTW: I have a Toro pan with the oil pump windage tray and a Dick Miller scraper attached to the rear mail cap to keep oil from climbing up the rear of the pan "when I dump the clutch at 5,000 rpm" on my W-31 SBO!

 

Sooo, what I'm hearing is that it's perfectly ok to clean up the 455 oil pan and paint it Gold for my engine. It should work better than the stock 350 one? The 350 oil pump will not be an issue for the 455 pan will it?

 

At least now I know I'm not the only one who "DUMPS" the clutch at 5,000rpm in a W-31 SBO!!!!! Mine carries the front wheels (with 9'' M&H slicks) about 8 inches! I have a Milodon pan. I really gotta stop doing that or something is gonna break. That Muncie and 12 bolt w/ stock axles (C-clip elim.) can't live long if I keep it up, but it SURE IS FUN!!!!!

 

......sigh.........are you and Rob brothers who were separated at birth???

 

The only problem I've ever encountered, is using a SBO pan on a BBO - the rod bolts MAY lightly contact the pan in a few places, which makes a noise that sounds like your motor is coming apart. Then you pull your motor and can't find any problems with the bearings or clearances, and you get driven to near insanity - until you notice the witness marks on the pan....

 

Lee, Lee, Lee
It's the other way around. I want to use the BBO pan on my SBO.

 

Should be NO problem using a BB pan on a SB.

I just put out my experience in case somebody sees this thread later on.

Lee

 

Thx Joe,
Yup, I was following that too. Offered to let him come up and help me. On the + side he did offer the use of his alignment jig, just it would cost as much just to ship it back and forth. Yes, I'm replacing the entire front linkages and sleeves. Still have the alignment shims and documented them before they came out. They are taped, labled and waiting in my baggy box. Should make the alignment guy happier that it will be reasonably close ....

 

As others have correctly noted, the pans will interchange. For a visual, click HERE

 

Thx Super,
Been a while since I was over at Supercars. Great pic showing the difference.

 

this really helps me a lot to distinguished the oil pan that i should use in my car. actually i've been bothered that if i used the wrong oil pan something worst might had to happened in my toy. but following the replies here, i got some information that helps me so much.

 

Allan,

Did you Yank the engine to remove the pan?? I have a single exhaust but would like to change to correct factory duals from inline tube.. Am thinking to pull/paint and re-seal my pan...

Anything specific I should know about changing an oil pan? Rtv on both sides of the gasket? Do kits still have a rope seal at the back? Or am I way off??

 

Yup, the guys here are pretty helpful. Just had a thought though. Does the 455 oil pan hold more or the same amount of oil as the one for the 350? I will replace my 350 one with the 455 based on the input I've recieved. The one on the car has a pretty good sized dent in it; probably from when my brother was driving it. He has no patience for anything....

 

CSM says all except toronado --> 5 quarts with filter, 4 without.

Account an extra quart if it's a toronado pan I guess because the toro has the final drive And all that jazz around that area.

 

The Toro sump is deeper by about an inch. For a rear wheel drive car, you can flatten the hump designed for FWD axle cleearance, and add baffles. These mods will make the Toro pan good for performance applications. Note also that the 7x9" Toro sump is front to rear, offset slightly for transmission clearance, while RWD pans have their 7x9" sump crosswise at the very rear.