I want to Replace/Rebuild EVERYTHING on my car, starting with my engine and transmission, but I have no proper troubleshooting skills when it comes to big projects like this. I was told by a gentleman earlier today that I would need to replace my valves and valve (seats?) due to my '64 was made to run on Lead gas and not Unleaded Gas. Then he mentioned to look on Mallory.com and get a new ignition system to help heat up the coils in the distributer? Something like that. He also recommended that I take out the AFB Carter 4bbl Carb. and replace it with a EDLEBROCK. Sounds Good but I would like to go back with the Original 2GC Carb. and stay original as possible. My main goal is to keep the Engine and transmission original like it was back in 1964 and get her back to being a daily driver. So here is what I have... 394 V8, Air Conditioner, AFB CARTER 4bbl Carb., Hydramatic transmission, Universal INline Electronic Fuel Pump, Looks like "glass packs" on the exhaust and Previous owner before my grand father routed them wrong. Then the ... Steering (arm?) rubs the exhaust and rubbed a hole in it when turning right. ANY and ALL ADVISE/ Suggestions are appreciated. Thank you for your time. I have posted Picks of the car and some of the Engine just incase that helps out more.

 

How does the car run now? Does it smoke, miss,...? How does the transmission perform, does it shift properly, the fluid a nice pink/ purpleish color???

 

Determine how the engine/tranny run, because if they don't need to be fully rebuilt, it's a waste.
With the engine: Getting hardened valve seats would be good, as well as replacing the gaskets/seals, oil pump, water pump, and fitting an O.E. fuel pump. Timing chain should be replaced, especially if it's a nylon-gear. Get a compression check done to see if you're going to need major engine work done.
Are you sure the carb is an AFB? It could be the optional 4GC four-barrel. If not, a 4GC would make a good upgrade from the two-barrel, while still being "original".
I'd have the transmission checked out...Roto-hydramatics have a lot of issues. It might be possible to put an earlier four-speed hydramatic in, which in my opinion would be correcting a bonehead GM decision.
An original air cleaner and black spark plug wires, plus a good dusting, should help your engine bay (I did take a look at your pics). Overall, though, it looks like you bought a heck of a nice car. Same color combo mine was originally, I just couldn't stand the refrigerator white paint (wasn't original)!
Of course, for a daily driver, some ignition/carburetion upgrades would help. I have good luck with the pertronix ignition units, and as carbs go, i'm still running a 2GC. I may go to a quadrajet, but I don't think that can be achieved with a 394. Maybe an autolite 2100/Holley two-barrel, they have a better reputation than the 2GC and can be had in 500cfm form.
One of the most important things you can do for a driver is replace ALL of the hoses/vacuum tubing, it will pay for itself over and over. Rebuilt brakes, new tires, a new battery, etc. will also help.

 

Sorry I forgot to write the issues I was having also.

Now, The Car Starts up and will drive for about 6-8mins then die and will not start until it has sat for couple hours. when started and when in motion black smoke comes out. I was having a fuel problem but the old fuel pump went out so I replaced it. Sometimes it will turn over but will not crank up. Idle is high and don't know if the air fuel ratio is correct since it smells like gas good portion of the time. Thank you for your help.

 

Hey sounds like that gentleman was saying the same thing so must be right. From the Part number I pulled up off of the Carb. it showed that it was the AFB Carter. So for better Gas Mileage, which would be better, 2GC or 4GC Carb. I'll take pics of the 2GC I have. Thank you for your help and Knowledge.

 

The old AFB might theoretically be better, but in reality, the 2GC would be, since you wouldn't be opening the secondaries every chance you get. As far as I know, the 4GC is a pig. Rebuild the 2GC, and you'll have a plenty-powerful engine that might not break the bank.
Of course, there are some very exotic manifolds out there for 394s, but they don't come up for sale often, and are pricey. I'm talking hilborn fuel injection and the like.

 

At first I thought I was looking at my car!!!!! Same white!! When I first got mine after
it sat for a year I replaced all the typical stuff...wires, plugs, oil, filters, drained tank,
battery, starter, Points, ignition coil and gave the engine compartment a scrub. I drained tranny fluid and put some mystery oil in crank and engine. Took it for a long 100 mile easy drive.. it huffed and puffed but eventually smoothed out and came alive.
In the past year I finally have it running good. The 2GC carb can give the 394 a heck of a good ride and lots of power. I have tweaked the carb as far as I can..next year I will rebuild it. Concidering the condition of my carb...it should just haul a#* when I rebuild it.

 

So I have been Checking out the threads on here, boy are there tons... but the main one i have seen is the whole LEAD or UNLEADED Debate. Now My whole purpose for my '64 Dynamic 88 is to Keep it as Original as possible BUT Return it back to a Daily Driver and be able to take me cross country if I wanted to. SOME say UNleaded is fine for weekend warriors, Others Say Unleaded is fine just add additive. So my Next Question is, To make her a daily and Everyday Driver, Do I need to change the Headers, Pistons or whatever for Unleaded Fuel? If so what ALL will be needed? If no Change is necessary will I need to insert Additives? This is very Vital to me because I am trying to get a game plan together to get her rebuilt and would like to avoid major headaches. OH and NO I AM NOT PUTTING A DARN 350 CHEVY TO REPLACE THE 394. If I wanted a Chevy I would have bought a CHEVY. Thank you for your time.

 

Here's a few thing's you might want to know about leaded fuel. Adding lead to fuel was a very inexpensive way to raise octane rating. A side benifit, was it also lubricated valve seats. If you dont drive many miles, then wouldn't worry about it. If driving a lot and maybe doing a head rebuild anyway, then good putting in hardened valve seats. Todays premium fuel is expensive to make, as done by further refining the crude, yielding less net product than 87 octane. While just making numbers up. Say you get 1 gallon of 87 octane from 3 gallons of crude. It may take 3-1/2 gallons of crude to produce 1 gallon of 93 octane. Think you get the idea.

 

Hey thanks for that info. At the moment I'm am trying to locate some one in Oklahoma that is able to rebuild the transmission correctly.... Seems like many shops know how to Rebuild the engine and replace headers, but not many of these "specialty" shops for transmissions have a clue about older transmissions..... then the mech's that know how to rebuild the engine just don't have the time or know how for the transmission...... I guess I should be glad they didn't say Yea and then mess it all up.... LMAO!!! Guess the process will be longer than I thought.... Now I see why it takes some 10 years to finish

 

After reading your first post carefully,I see that a electric in-line fuel pump was installed....Food for thought on this; in relation to what you posted on the car smoking black smoke and dying.....You will need to add a fuel pressure regulator so that the fuel pressure can be adj. to 6-8 psi somewhere there about, because the carb is not made to accept the high fuel pressures that a electric/electronic fuel pump is capable of generating, thus pushing the excess fuel by the needle seats of your carburetor...Please! If you do not have a pressure regulator in conjunction with that electric fuel pump,put one on it ,adj. the presure down below 10 psi.and see how your Olds. runs before you do anything major.....carb. replacement,overhaul etc....PS, assuming that it does not smoke (blue) and compression is good...May save you a bundle of cash to spend on other fixer upper areas...

 

You know what...... I don't. So that would go between the carb and the electronic fuel pump right? Does it matter if it is before or after the inline fuel filter? Thanks for that information.

 

You are correct....The fuel pressure regulator needs to be between the carb.and the electric fuel pump...

 

Well I bought and put a fuel Pressure Regulator on the line and it did help. Of course when first started, it blew black smoke, but after driving it around and letting it run the black smoke slowly decreased. Thank you for that. This is why these forums are sometimes better than local mechanics, atleast around here, people on this forum have the Proper experience and knowledge to pass on to those that lack in knowledge like myself. Thank you to everyone that has helped.

 

Of course, for a daily driver, some ignition/carburetion upgrades would help. I have good luck with the pertronix ignition units, and as carbs go, i'm still running a 2GC. I may go to a quadrajet, but I don't think that can be achieved with a 394. Maybe an autolite 2100/Holley two-barrel, they have a better reputation than the 2GC and can be had in 500cfm form.
One of the most important things you can do for a driver is replace ALL of the hoses/vacuum tubing, it will pay for itself over and over. Rebuilt brakes, new tires, a new battery, etc. will also help.[/QUOTE]




So What type of upgrades for the ignition would you suggest? Would that include upgrading the distributor or does that have anything to do with that stuff?

 

For what you are going for a Mallory or MSD distributor would seem to be overkill and may not be available for a 394. If your distributor is in good shape you should think about an electronic ignition conversion kit. It will maintain the stock look but offer the trouble free maintenance of a breakerless ignition.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

 

Smileywattz. only interior parts are changed when you adapt a pertronix to your distributor, the external keeps it's original look, You just never have to change points ever again.

If you change to a 4 bbl carb you will need a different intake manifold( not cheep)and not as easy to find as on newer engines.

Make sure you have a real problem with your slimjim before you run off and have it rebuilt. These were quirky transmissions when new and you may be experiencing some of it's idiosyncrasy now.Be sure you find a mechanic that knows slimjims very well or you learn to hate your transmission, they can become a money pit and still not work like you would like.

As far as adapting a older styled hydramatic to your car you would need to modify, enlarge the transmission tunnel sheet metal,this will change the appearance of your interior also, can be done but not as easy as it may sound.

It sounds as you are real anxious to get your car up and going but if it was mine I would work on one thing at a time and eliminate each known issue as it came up, get it running first then get it safe to run.

Just remember be for you start swapping out a bunch of parts foreign to your year model and style the car ran perfectly when new, it can again....Just my thoughts....Tedd

 

Yea I would like to get her back to an every day driver, but small things come up here and there that slowing the process down. It's Frustrating, but it's worth it. I live in a small town of Ardmore, Ok. and when I talk to mechanics around here about looking over it, it's like they always say or suggest to swap out every thing with a darn 350 engine and what ever tranny that goes with it. Never really get a real answer, Maybe because they don't know how to work on it. I'm starting to think I'll just go to Automotive class and do all this myself. LMAO! I have a 4BBl Carb. on the vehicle right now and would like to take it out and put the 2GC back on it. I don't think that would be too hard for a mechanic now-a-days would it? Also, once swapped out, does anyone know where I can buy the original fuel pump for it? or should I just stay with the in-line electronic fuel pump?

 

Your transmission problems( you haven't said what they are) may be related to the non-stock carburetor you have installed now.I believe a 4CG Rochester was stock on your car and should have the linkage for the kick down on the transmission. A 4GC isn't a bad carburetor,I've run mine for years with no problems and GM used them for about 15 years on various models of cars.

You should be able to special order a stock fuel pump from your local parts house or get one from Fusick or USA Parts Supply.

I wouldn't worry to much about non leaded gas in an old engine, it ran for years with lead in the fuel and in my experience the residual left on the valves will protect them till you rebuild them.I have an engine that has run 20,000 miles on unleaded gas with no problems as yet.

You seem anxious to rebuild that 394,they are EXPENSIVE to overhaul. This may not be a problem for you, I have no Idea of your budget but look in to it before you drop it off at a shop you may save your self a hart attack...Just a few more thoughts....Tedd

PS. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about that 4CG and the linkage.It's been a bunch of years since I worked on a 394 and a simjim and now I am doubting myself.

 

like Ted said the carb issue may be the problem with the trans.
I want to know if the engine has a 2 bbl or 4 bbl intake manifold. You keep saying that you want to use the 2gc carb. Do you have the carb and manifold or just the carb.
Did they adapt a 4 bbl to the 2 bbl manifold. If they did make an adapter, then the trans liknage is out of adjustment or not hooked up at all.
The local parts house can get you the fuel pump, by order. What is on the engine where the fuel is mounted?

The local parts house can get you the conversion kit for the distributor.

If you drive a lot of miles, and you need to rebuild the heads, hard seats may be a good idea. If you drive less than a 1000 a month then hard seats ,you can do with out. just use a fuel additive once a month.

Gene

 

Here are some pictures of the 2GC and the manifold that came with the car when my grandfather bought it. Also is a picture of what is on the motor now. I have posted more Pictures in my lil album also. Not sure if they adapted a 2bbl manifold to the 4bbl, but that would consist of taking the carb off and checking huh? is that hard? or is it pretty easy? I know the linkage has a lil delay when the gas is pushed, but does that make a difference? Are the Pictures good enough or do i nee to take better pics? I can if need be.
So is the fuel pump pretty easy to put on for the 2GC? What does it even look like?

 

the only issues I was having was that it was taking long to shift in gear and it is shifting hard. Is it only a three speed? I know it takes long to shift when I get on the highway and get around 60-70mph. Then also I think I need to adjust something else because when I put it into drive it starts to move with out me pushing the gas. If I let it coast, It can stay of atleast 20mph or slower. more like I have my foot on the gas peddle when I don't. What would that be?

 

The picture of the manifold is a 2bbl and that looks like a 2CG carb, I would stick with it at this time till other issues are worked out.

The fuel pump is located on the passengers side front of the engine and may have been replaced with a flat plate beings you have a electric pump now. Not a bad job if you can turn a wrench. But if you don't know where a fuel pump is I highly recommend that the FIRST thing you buy for this car is a manual for this year car,they come up on Ebay all the time You will need it a lot.

The problems you describe about you transmission are typical of a slmjim that is out of adjustment.This is probably the biggest pain in the *** about a slmjim,they have other issues but this comes up more often than anything else. On the AACA forum under Oldsmobile technical there is a sticky that will enlighten you on slimjim idiosyncrasy. It's a must read for anyone who has one of these transmissions.Hope this helps.... Tedd

 

Just an Update.....

Had the Car towed to our local Mech and they found out that my issue was one of the needles in the Carb was bent to where it was making it flood every time. So I had to buy a new Edelbrock Carb for it and they had to fix the timing and replace the spark plugs also. Going to have them replace the exhaust pipes, It is rigged to be Duals and they messed it all up. I asked them to just make it a single Pipe and make it quiet. Possibly Go buy new Rims, Tire and Get realigned... maybe just get realigned for now. Soon as I get that done I'm going to have it priced to be painted. Looking to paint it blue or Aqua Blue to match the interior. So far it is driving good. Might need to have AC and Blower fixed since Summer is Coming.... LMAO!!!! So much for trying to keep original.... I guess I'll just have to make her custom to my liking.... DANG.... Thanks for every ones inputs