navvet

I have read every thread regarding oil for old engines. So I need a final answer.
I have replaced the oil sending unit and I have the car up for replacing the timing chain cover gasket. Everything is going fine. Then I was thinking what oil am I going to put in the ole gal.
Here are the specs. 1964 394 two barrel. 87,000 miles. Compression is outstanding and engine runs great. I have had car for three years and I have records of ALL maintenace done on the car. In its 47 years it has had well over
50 oil changes. I have only driven it 3000 miles and have done 3 oil changes.
Bottom line what should I buy.
Thanks all.

GAOldsman

Timing chain and gear set, especially if you are going to change timing cover gasket. Then I'd use the same oil you've been using or if your pockets are heavier than mine use royal purple. Personally I use Pennzoil with about 1/2 pint marvel mystery oil with a new oil filter every time I change my oil and dump the other 1/2 pint marvel mystery oil in the gas tank (filled up of course) Just my opinion of course.

MDchanic

I'm no expert, but the best thing is probably a diesel truck oil, because they are allowed to have larger amounts of metallic protectants, like zinc, than gas-engine oils are, because diesels have no catalytic converters. I'd go with non-synthetic if you change it that often, since the chief benefit of synthetics is longevity, and your oils barely make it to adulthood.
(A benefit of synthetics, though, is better, longer-lasting coating of parts, which may be a plus if you start the engine very infrequently.)

- Eric

oldsfromyell

Might want to rethink the diesel oil thing. Yes they do have catalysts in the exhaust and the current oil on the market is pretty much gutted of all the good additives that made it an option in older flat tappet gas engines. Most people are using their favorite brand oil with the ZDDP additives added.Just my .02

w-30dreamin

If you read all the threads regarding oil,you realize there are alot of different opinions on this subject.
I recently started a thread(Lets talk about engine oils and additives) about oil and finally decided to use something that had been mentioned by numerous people and was available local to me to avoid shipping costs.
At Napa I found the Valvoline vr1 oil in 10w30.
With 87,000 miles I would stay away from synthetics,it is a thinner oil and I have read it will find the weaker sealing areas in your motor and start leaking.
just my opinion after lots of reading

MDchanic

No argument here, ZDDP is good, and there are a few "Racing" formulations, from Castrol and the like, with higher zinc levels, which should obviate the need for additives, but from what I've seen, they're harder to find and less likely to be on sale.

The more authoritative articles I've read have stated that high zinc or ZDDP levels are only necessary during the critical first thousand miles or so of cam break-in, and that afterwards, very little is essential, and the diesel oils should have the small amount needed for a well-broken in engine.

I agree that synthetics might be a bit more likely to push through older gaskets.

- Eric

D. Yaros

What you have been using works just fine, obviously. If you feel the need to change I would say either Brad-Penn oil, or you current oil with a can of STP. STP may be a joke to alot of folk, but what it does have is the ZDDP you want.

Lady72nRob71

Current diesel oil has more ZDDP than the regular ol' car oil and very easy to find and cost effective.
I saw valvoline VR1 at otter zone for 3 bucks a quart and it says it has ZDDP for older engines. Either of those I would consider.
If you do not plan to drive in the cold winters, i would opt for 10W40 or 15W40.

cutlassgal

I made the mistake of asking about oil on here once...... I've never been so confused in all my life, lol!!!!!

Tony72Cutlass'S'

I recently drove down to champlain NY and saw a product that was new for 2010 in the Rislone Line. It's called something like, ZDDP Engine Treatment, add one bottle to the crankcase and supposedly it restores the zinc and phos content in your oil. I only just changed my oil this past weekend and it's still snowing in Montreal, but it seems to be running smooth so far.

Cheers,

Tony

Tony72Cutlass'S'

Found it,

http://www.barsproducts.com/4401.htm

-Tony

442much

OK, here'a my $.02. I've heard that diesel oil has too many detergents in it and cam manufactures are moving away from recommending it. My engine builder suggested that I switch to synthetic oil with a NAPA gold, Wix or Purolator oil filter, not Fram which is what I had been using.

Remember that I will have all new seals in my engine so synthetic should be fine. Another thing, we don't change oil only because of mileage alone. The engine heats up and cools down and condensation gets inside especially if we don't drive it a lot (read-everyday). Driving the car everyday at least will burn off any condensation. With synthetic all the molecules are the same size as opposed to dino oil. Any oil used, synthetic or dino should have the proper zinc required or at least use a zinc additive. I think Lucas has one.

My suggestion is that you use what you've been using. I've also heard good things about Royal Purple and Brad Penn although I have not used them myself. When I get my engine back, my builder says he'll break in the cam with dino oil and zinc additive and that I should not switch to synthetic until about the second or third oil change.

So now with all the opinions here, are you totally confused now? I'd say whatever you decide, err on the side of caution. Some say you need zinc, some say, it's overblown. If you need zinc and don't use it...trouble. If you don't need it and use it....probably better. Good luck.

jag1886

Use what ever you want just add a ZDDP fortifier to it, just make certian you read the can most of the aftermarket fortifiers have no ZDDP in them at all. I use the stuff Eastwood sells.

D Appeldorn

pfff try to get oil with enough zddp over here!

tried several local supliers, normal 10w40 contains about 500 zddp as i was told by a sunoco and comma oil suplier.

after the first 500 miles i put in a 20w50 vr1 as the only oil i could get localy.
In my opinion it is to thick in a rebuild engine.
so i switched after about 2000 miles to brad penn 10w40 1 race oil "green stuff"

I think the mineral and semi are not that differend. and i get the amount of zddp i need in a 10w40 oil.

Maybe i get luck and they going to sell zddp ads over here, so i could buy cheaper oil in stead of brad penn ( is over here about $148 getting 10 quarts)

but it is the oil i need, so i do not complain.

ROCKET VAPOR

VR-1 oil and Wix filter!!!

Destructor

With a name like Fram, its got to suck.

D Appeldorn

Any bad experience?

I personly would not atack any trademark of oilfilters without real experience with it or real data.
That they are bad oilfilters.

I have never had any problem with the fram filter, and also not with the ac delco ones i now use.

Like the hp story, in my opinion you wil never know exactly without dyno it.
facts, i.s.off stories

ragtop71

Mobil 1 oil and filter all the way that's my story and i am sticking to it!!!

Nilsson

x 2 can't go wrong.

navvet

OK Great advise and the CHOICE I MADE WAS: Vavoline VR1 oil and a WIX filter and added a zinc formular from Eastwood..
Thanks again for all the opinions

Destructor

Fram sucks

Nilsson

cardboard in a can.

ziff396

Well, for some reason while running Fram, I had a knock or rattle as some may see it at start up. I have heard of this before. I switched to Wix and suddenly it just went away!? Anyways, my experience. No more Fram for me!!!

71 Cutlass

Amsoil...so far the best stuff I've ever tried. Has high zinc and phosporous levels for flat tappet camshafts.

getawaycar

I am a mechanic for Cummins engine co. and have seen at least a dozen catastrophic engine failuresdue to fram oil filters. What has happened in those cases is the filter media actually comes apart and has plugged up oil passages. Also I have cut open a lot of filters and baldwin and wix filters are not much better than fram inside. Napa filters are pretty good.

Now to add my personal preferance to the list. In my experience Fleetguard makes the best filters. I have never seen a lube system failure with a Fleetguard filter. Many have full flow and bypass filtration in the same filter. It is what I run exclusively on all my engines, and what I will run on my 400 when I get it back together.

Chris

Nilsson

Napa filters are made by Wix, so this must mean Wix are pretty good?

getawaycar

As I recall the wix filters look like the baldwins inside... cheep. The Napa filters looked better inside, go figure. Wix makes several other brands of filters too including baldwin. All of those filters are made to the specs of the labeled co and just manufactured by Wix co.

We change a lot of filters at my shop. I will start cutting open the different brands to do a side by side comparison.

A note on synthetic oils. I had a race car with a big block chevy engine. Valvoline gave me like 12 cases of synthetic oil with their sponsership so we started using it. The engine had about 60k miles and the synthetic made it leak from almost everywhere. We switched back to diesel 15w40 (also free from the shop) and it stopped leaking. I gave the synthetic away.

Just food for thought. You know, to confuse the issue some more.

Chris

71 Cutlass

The following is from the Amsoil website, one of the most respected oil manufacturers. They make their own filters (which are expensive) and prove to be excellent in many independent tests. Their second choice is Wix. Here's the info from their site:
A History of Excellence
WIX is well-known around the world for its innovative filtration products for the automotive and light truck market. Founded in 1939, the Gastonia, N.C., company earned acclaim during World War II when it created an oil filter out of a paper tube, wooden plugs and yarn when steel was in short supply. In 1954 WIX created the revolutionary spin-on oil filter that was eventually adopted as original equipment on most vehicles.
Today WIX manufactures some of the best oil, air, lube, cabin air, hydraulic, fuel, crank case breather and transmission filtration products on the market. The company is also widely known for its support of NASCAR.
Superior Construction
WIX oil filters have a full metal base plate for superior strength at the double seal. They also feature a silicone anti-drainback valve that stays flexible in extreme temperatures. This improves oil flow and keeps oil in the filter to prevent dry starts.
WIX oil filters use an up-front by-pass valve. This design is superior to top-mounted valves because it helps to keep oil from washing past dirty media and entering the engine. The glass-enhanced media in WIX oil filters offers greater efficiency, capturing more 10 to 12 micron sized particles than other cellulose/synthetic blend medias. They also have a coil steel spring to ensure internal filter parts are sealed properly.
WIX panel element air filters have a linear path through the filter for low airflow restriction, a specially formulated adhesive to form WIX’s exclusive pocket pleat for the filter media and a soft sealing urethane gasket molded in place on the filter element.

navvet

As I had mentioned I was replacing the front gasket...thus the reason for the question on the oil to use. I did take time to inspect the timing chain and gears and both were in need of replacement. My spring tune-up is getting $$$$. I am waiting for a motor mount now.
What I am learning is the "oil question" is a very hot topic. I am confident in my choices.