How many Years to you recommend between cooling system flush & new coolant ?
With the old green coolant the usual recommendation was at least every two years'
Starting in the early sixties a lot of cars incorporated a lot of aluminum components.
Those cars were subject to a lot of corrosion of the aluminum components if the coolant wasn't changed regularly.
This was due to dis-similar metals corrosion. (iron & aluminum)
Newer type coolants have longer change intervals. But, I don't know if they are approved for use in our "vintage iron".
Starting in the early sixties a lot of cars incorporated a lot of aluminum components.
Those cars were subject to a lot of corrosion of the aluminum components if the coolant wasn't changed regularly.
This was due to dis-similar metals corrosion. (iron & aluminum)
Newer type coolants have longer change intervals. But, I don't know if they are approved for use in our "vintage iron".
Measure the coolant voltage. .04 VDC max, Any more its shot. PH strips work good too.
Coolant needs to be "neutral". 5 years max life span.
Pull the heater core hoses and flush it separately with low pressure.
Suck all the flush water out with a shop vac. Refill with 50/50 premix. Dont use tap water to cut straight coolant.
Low silicate coolant is nice if you can find it
A bottle of pump lubricant doesn't hurt.
Put a spread sheet together to track service dates.
Mines been in there 10 years. Time just flies too fast. Mine measures12VDC! Way over due.
Its getting flushed within the next week!!!
Coolant needs to be "neutral". 5 years max life span.
Pull the heater core hoses and flush it separately with low pressure.
Suck all the flush water out with a shop vac. Refill with 50/50 premix. Dont use tap water to cut straight coolant.
Low silicate coolant is nice if you can find it
A bottle of pump lubricant doesn't hurt.
Put a spread sheet together to track service dates.
Mines been in there 10 years. Time just flies too fast. Mine measures12VDC! Way over due.
Its getting flushed within the next week!!!
Measure the coolant voltage. .04 VDC max, Any more its shot. PH strips work good too.
Coolant needs to be "neutral". 5 years max life span.
Pull the heater core hoses and flush it separately with low pressure.
Suck all the flush water out with a shop vac. Refill with 50/50 premix. Dont use tap water to cut straight coolant.
Low silicate coolant is nice if you can find it
A bottle of pump lubricant doesn't hurt.
Put a spread sheet together to track service dates.
Mines been in there 10 years. Time just flies too fast. Mine measures12VDC! Way over due.
Its getting flushed within the next week!!!
Coolant needs to be "neutral". 5 years max life span.
Pull the heater core hoses and flush it separately with low pressure.
Suck all the flush water out with a shop vac. Refill with 50/50 premix. Dont use tap water to cut straight coolant.
Low silicate coolant is nice if you can find it
A bottle of pump lubricant doesn't hurt.
Put a spread sheet together to track service dates.
Mines been in there 10 years. Time just flies too fast. Mine measures12VDC! Way over due.
Its getting flushed within the next week!!!
If you're looking for peace of mind, change it every year and be done with it. It's not expensive, and it's simple to do, so do it if it makes you happy.
One thing I have never done is measure the voltage of my coolant.
The simple answer is, back in the day, it was every 12 months or 12,000 miles. Nobody drives their collector car 12,000 miles a year, so you go by the time instead. But, as has been noted, coolant is different now with much of it being advertised as "long life." As has been mentioned, I go by how it looks, and change it maybe every three years.
If you're looking for peace of mind, change it every year and be done with it. It's not expensive, and it's simple to do, so do it if it makes you happy.
One thing I have never done is measure the voltage of my coolant.
If you're looking for peace of mind, change it every year and be done with it. It's not expensive, and it's simple to do, so do it if it makes you happy.
One thing I have never done is measure the voltage of my coolant.
Most coolants have corrosion inhabiting chemicals added to them.
When these chemicals get used up, that's when corrosion occurs.
That's why the coolant must be changed.
"Extended life " coolants have a different additive package, It doesn't have to be changed as often as the "old green stuff ".
But it still needs to be changed.
Changing coolant is especially important in a system with aluminum components
Aluminum components are especially subject to corrosion damage.
When these chemicals get used up, that's when corrosion occurs.
That's why the coolant must be changed.
"Extended life " coolants have a different additive package, It doesn't have to be changed as often as the "old green stuff ".
But it still needs to be changed.
Changing coolant is especially important in a system with aluminum components
Aluminum components are especially subject to corrosion damage.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; Apr 26, 2025 at 10:32 AM.
You're not measuring the "voltage" of the coolant, anyway. You're measuring the resistance (or conductivity) of the fluid. There are much safer ways of doing this. Get a conductivity meter. Set your multimeter to measure resistance. Conductivity is just the reciprocal of resistance.
However, according to this article, it's all pointless, anyway, as conductivity is not a good measure of coolant effectiveness.
As I said earlier, if you're at all doubtful about the quality of your coolant, just change it. Don't be sticking electrical wires into liquids.
Check the first sentence of the second paragraph. Unless significantly diluted prior to measurement, the conductivity of automotive coolant "provides no valuable data."
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