I went to have my power window serviced due to the motor being inoperative. This is what the mechanic said. As I called a few hours later to pick up my car, they said the power window spring was missing and the rivets were popped. I've owned the car since new. So, I cannot prove the assertion. He's done work for me before. Would any know where I can find a 'power window spring' ? They may have snapped it but cannot prove it. As to the rivets being popped, I have no clue for no one ever serviced that window. 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham. That is why I should have done the work myself. Any assistance as to finding a spring would be appreciated.
* Will the window still function without the spring. On one forum, they said the window still operates without the spring. I believe the mechanic said there was no problem going down. I would imagine the up would be slower; don't know.

 

https://www.electric-life.com/produc...tors-attached/

 

Find a new mechanic as he is an idiot when it comes to working on G-bodies.

For the power window-equipped cars from the factory, E-body has springs, G-bodies do not. If the rivets are "popped" as you say, not sure what that means. It does use pop rivets to hold all that junk together to the door and window. But if needed to remove/replace, you could use small bolts to do the same thing.

As for the going down part, no problem. Weight of the window works well for pushing down everything. Going up? Strength of the motor and the condition/cleanliness of the switch contacts are crucial, as well as the condition of the tightness of the pivot pins holding everything together. They wear, and get sloppier over time.

Removing the power window switches and cleaning up the contacts goes a long way for smoother operation of your power windows because the power goes through all that junk. Even worse on the passenger side because the passenger window has to go through the driver side window switches as well, so if your contacts are cruddy, it's a double whammy on the passenger side. Cruddy contacts also can affect power door lock switches too. While you can do it, try to avoid those "race windows" type transformers that actually push more voltage through the circuit. You're windows will go faster, but you'll likely shorten the motor lifespan. If everything is straight, aligned, clean, and lubricated properly, your windows will work great. If you wanted to get your windows to work better without adding a transformer, you can always add 4 relays to your system and run 12v directly to the power window motor for much cheaper.

Here's an excerpt from a post I made about this over on Gbodyforum.com a few years ago when someone was asking about this:

"E-bodies (Toro) have counter-balance spring right in the middle of the axis where the motor turns gear and then the regulator spins on the axis that the coiled tension spring is located. The purpose is to somewhat hold the weight of the glass to minimize the load on the cheesy assed motor that GM engineers decided would be a good idea to use. You shouldn't have that spring in a G-body.

Reason for this is that I have some NOS power window regulators still in the GM vacuum sealed bags. And if they had a spring in them, they'd be all expanded. 20123184 for RH and 20123185 for LH for the power window regulator part numbers in case you run into some.

Manual regulators are completely different than the power ones. So either it's a regulator not designed for the G-body but somehow fit or was made to fit it. Also, early versions of the regulator had a place for a windup spring in it. Maybe someone put one in? Later versions just had a flattened center axis pin so you couldn't put a spring on it if you wanted to.

There's a certain procedure on removing a spring loaded regulator. You first need to drill a hole in the backing plate and the regulator gear sector plate and insert a bolt or pin in it to keep the spring from unwinding when you remove the motor. Not doing so can cause a sudden release of tension. Dangerous situation if you ask me."

 

Here's a G-body power window regulator and motor assembly.



Here's how it mounts inside the door:



And here's a modified wiring diagram (Fleming442 set me straight on this) for wiring in relays to your existing circuit if you wanted. This is one way to do it:

 

I did? 🤣

 

Oh, and even if you do find a spring, good luck getting it in. My neighbor popped the one on his boss's wife's Solara. They ended up buying a regulator.



And, find a new mechanic.....again

 

@ 69HO43

What can I say, I'm certain you're correct. He already has the door apart and obtained the motor. I have no choice at this point. I very much appreciate the technical information you provided.
* I called this morning and now he admits there was no spring stating, "He hasn't worked on one for a while. I asked him as he said: "I could not locate" a 'spring'. Apparently, he made a mistake. So, your information greatly assisted me whereby I was ready to begin litigation again. The car is done, yet to pick up but he said it's working (power window). Again, if were not for you I could never prove the assertions. 'Rivets popped' > Apparently the pins have been removed prior as adding nuts and bolts. I do not believe that door was ever serviced, "only" by me in cleaning the switch contacts and trying to find an area for speakers. irrespective of that the cost was $292.00 with a new motor (Cardone). I just don't have the time to perform all the work. * I cannot thank you enough for the professional support. By the way all the calls were logged and recorded. If he did not admit to the spring as "not" being there or part of the G-Body, I would have him cold> dead to right: "Thanks to you". I just may need the regulators in the near future, always good to have.

 

Dude, you really got to stop being ready to sue everyone on a moment's notice. Try working with people.

 

Careful, I'm sure he is logging and recording all of our post.