ok, '69 Cutlass S with a 350. Put a rebuilt Quad on here yesterday. Started and runs fine. When I had the car in the air this morning I noticed the main starter lug nut was not tight by maybe 4-6 threads. So, tightened it up and dropped the car down and started to hook the battery up again it sparked like crazy. Unhooked it and raised car back up and saw that when I tightened the main starter lug it made contact with one of the other wires on the starter. Redid the lug again and hooked battery up and no sparks. But, soon as I turned the key on it clicked and all power was gone. Replaced the VR thinking it may have shorted out but that wasn't it. Could I have burnt out the starter solenoid? Right now I have no power to anything. All fuses in the fuse block are good.
What am I missing?

 

Check the fusible link on the engine harness first.

If the link is not fried, then it's the solenoid.

 

What I have learned so far. In looking for the fusible link I undid the horn relay where all the wires seem to go thru and it is ok. Looks like the fusible link is ok if I'm looking at the right piece.( small black round piece with wire going in and out of. It is sealed ).
Weird thing is when I hook the battery up and get in the car all the lights and key buzzer work until I turn the key to start and then they all go out - like a fuse blew-.starter does not engage.

 

Need to get a volt meter and start at battery and move out from there, sounds like you may have lost a ground connection.

 

Check your battery cables. If it isn't that then it may be the battery internally shorting. But start with your cables.

 

New solenoid, new voltage regulator and checked wiring connections at the starter when I put the new solenoid on.
Hook battery back up and everything works until I turn the key then no lights or anything and no starter.. Weird thing is I can unhook the battery for a few minutes then hook it up again and everything works until I try and start the car. Once I turn the key everything goes out again.

 

You have a resistive connection, likely at one of the battery terminals. Taking the cables off the battery and reattaching them temporarily cleans this connection. Now would be a good time for new battery cables. FYI, the regulator has nothing to do with operating the starter or the lights. You can completely disconnect the regulator and the alternator and you can still operate the starter and lights.

 

Agreed, this is a resistive/loose connection. I had this problem many times over the years when using the bolt-on battery repair terminals or when the battery cables got a lot of white corrosion buildup. Everything seems OK until trying to start, then just one click and the high current through the battery cable results in an open circuit and no power to anything.

 

It's interesting that Ken and Joe mentioned the battery cables. About a week ago I put new ends on the cables only where they connect to the battery itself. Had a hard time getting the ends to crimp properly. Hmmmmm....!

Tomorrow I'm going to a big swap meet and if I don't find some complete new cables from a vendor there then I will pick some up on the way home.

Will post the results.

 

Clean both the terminal ends and battery lugs. I use a brush like this.

 

Ding ding ding...

 

When crimping battery lugs, I clean them very well, crimp, and then fill with solder and shrink wrap. You also must use lugs sized for the cable used. Also make sure negative cables are bolted tight to a clean surface.

 

Update: replaced the positive cable first and tried again-no help and where I had soldered the lug to the cable was loose. Replaced the negative cable (which actually looked good) and BINGO !!! Success.

I had never heard the term "restrictive connection" used in automotive terms. Learned something new every day making each day worthwhile!
And thru this entire process of my trial and error I now have a new solenoid, voltage regulator, and battery cables!!

Thanks all for your suggestions and support.

 

Actually, the term is resistive connection, as in it has too much resistance. This is a connection that will carry voltage but not a lot of current. If you use a voltmeter to test it, it will show the expected 13.8 volts, since the tester uses little current. Try to carry starter motor current across it and it won't work.