oldcutlass

If you do not have spark with that test, check the black wire to the coil from the points or the ground wire for the advance plate. Did you buy a new condenser?

Markwz11

yes, the points and condenser came as a kit. I need to get some work done this morning but, I should be able to get back to the car by lunch time... I'll do the test you suggested, without the jumper wire... fingers crossed!

damaged442

One other thing to be aware of, is just because you purchased new parts, does NOT mean they are good. I have purchased new coils and condensers, and they have been bad right out of the box.


You mentioned the fuel lines have been replaced. Does that include the rubber lines coming off the top of the tank? I know it has been mentioned before, but they can crack and suck air. Happened to me with my 73. Acted the same way you described! Fuel with ethanol can also swell the rubber choking off the lines. I have seen it replacing rubber fuel lines on both cars and boats.


Good luck getting her going!

Markwz11

Yah, that's why I went ahead and got another coil. The one I replaced was only a couple weeks old. I figured, what the heck. Now I'll just be checking to make sure I have the necessary spark.

ALL fuel lines were done and when I put the new fuel pump on, I even replaced the ones from the pump "again" just to make sure.

Thanks

Markwz11

OK everyone... today is a fresh new day and I am clear-headed and ready to start again with the Cutlass Supreme electrical ignition test. Eric has given me a few new tests to conduct so, first things first... remove the Dist. Cap and... WAIT A MINUTE, WHERE'S THE ROTOR??? In my haste yesterday, after my last diagnosis, I neglected to replace the rotor before I tried to start the car, after I replaced the points...

So I looked in the top drawer of my tool box and look what I see... a ROTOR!! I removed the Dist. Cap (no visible rotor) and replaced the rotor, replaced the cap, put the key in and WHAM!!! That baby started first kick!!!..... Checked the timing, right on... minor idle adjustment and this thing hasn't run this good since the day I bought it 4 yrs. ago!!

This is a perfect example of spending too many hours trying to diagnose something that you're not familiar with (ignition electronics) and also being distracted with work. ALSO... another example of "No question is too dumb to ask"... such as "did you put the rotor back on?" Im not saying this happened to me in this instance but, Ive seen it on the forum before and I could have VERY EASILY replied, "heck yah, I put the rotor back on, what do you take me for... a knucklehead"?

So, thank you to each and every one of you who gave me your 2¢ worth. In one way or another, they were all informative and to Eric, a HUGE THANK YOU for sticking with me on this and guiding me thru the points process. As I mentioned, Ive never been good at setting points. And when I think of it, I believe it's because Ive never owned a car where the distributor was in the front of the motor (for easier access) and my Super Bee had a Dual Point Dist. and I NEVER attempted that mess. I barely understand One Point.
Again, THANK YOU!!

oldcutlass

Your quite welcome, as you can see they are not as complicated as you thought. You can probably even skip the trip to the mechanic.

MDchanic

... But DO get a dwell meter. You can often pick them up for $5 at yard sales & flea markets.

- Eric

Markwz11

Eric - I will probably get a dwell meter just to have one. Then I will have to learn to use it but after all of this, I have a feeling that any time I get a car that still relies on ignition points, I will probably convert it to electronic ignition (for no other reason that Peace of Mind) especially after what I had to do to check the gap of those points. I literally had to take my .016 gap gage and split it in two, bend it at an angle and tape the other half I split from it, to the end of it, in order to make it about 4 inches long and reach the points gap...

(other) Eric - I will skip the trip to the mechanic as, it is FOR SALE and on Craigs List NWSuburbs Chicago, and like I said before... this car has not run this good since I bought it 4 yrs. ago. I wish I could keep it but my son will be going t school soon and has no way of taking care of it, the way it should be done. He doesn't have the mechanical aptitude to keep up with the maintenance or trouble shooting... AND I don't have the time to devote, to what Id like to do with this ride, nor the place to store it in our harsh winters.

Thanks again

damaged442

Glad it worked out for you!! Great news! How bout posting the link to the CL ad when its up?

oldcutlass

I understand about cars and kids with no mechanical ability and no inclination to learn. That's why my son has a 2007 car. I would not rush out and get a dwell meter if your not going to have a points ignition in the future. Good luck with your sale.

Markwz11

Eric, here's the CL Link:

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/6184096166.html

oldcutlass

I read your for sale post.

Markwz11

...any thoughts?

I know the market/weather is much different here in Chicago vs. Granbury, TX. Im originally from Galveston. Have a couple of high school friends in McKinney. They love the Dallas area.

oldcutlass

I think your price is reasonable. Dfw are is ok and Granbury is nice smaller town with a fair amount of old car people.

Markwz11

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.

RetroRanger

15" bolt on ctr caps !!!