Hey guys, just got the 69 cutlass home and had it out and my rear end is making a grind, clunk noise when put in gear. I had it put on flatbed and put in in my garage. I want to change the rear end anyway but what way to go. 9" ford rear end of a chev? Guy I bought car from had 9" but i did not take it. I was told by a gentleman that a chev will bolt up and I want a posi. I need some advice and help. First cutlass and new at this so any advice from you guys who know ur cars would be grate. Thanks.

 

I would check the universal joint going to the rear end, that maybe where your noise is coming from. I would fix that then take your time figuring out what you want to do. Are you going racing? just street or a mixture? It maybe cheaper to rebuild your old rear end and add a posi. Monzaz would be a good person to talk to.

 

I'd do a bit of troubleshooting prior to jumping in and spending a bunch of money. As stated above it can be as simple as Ujoints.

 

 

I have a 68-72' 12 bolt passenger car Chevy 4:10 ratio posi rear for sale. Ready to bolt in just needs brake parts installed, however it does have backing plates.

68-72' A-Body Chevy 12 bolt housing, std, width, used

Moser "C" clip eliminator kits installed, new

Moser 31 spline race axles with 3" long 1/2" HD hardened wheel studs, new

Strange pinion and side gears with hardened cross shaft, new

HD 12 bolt pinion yoke, used

Richmond 4:10 ratio race gear set, used

Chevy Series 4 Posi. unit, used, maged, shot peened, and heat treated case, with new GM clutch pack and HD springs

Ring and pinion lash set at .006-.008"

All new Timken made in the USA bearings, new

Rear end set up by Walts Gears and Rears, in Tampa, Florida

Never used as it was my back up rear for my Olds bracket car.

Cost $1,950.00 to build in 2002 ( I am sure it would cost 15-20% more today). $1,750.00 plus shipping, pallet, binding, etc. Fastenal usually charges me $100.00 to $150.00 to ship a rear end east of the Mississippi.

I also have three 70' Olds "O" Type 12 bolt rears, 3:23 ratio, non-posi. All under 80,000 miles. Came from 1970 Rallye 350s that I scrapped. I drained fluid and inspected and all have minimal wear. Housing do NOT have heavy rust and are pit free, have axles, backing plates, and one has brake hardware, shoes, etc. $350.00 each plus shipping, pallet, etc.

pm me or call 850-443-6877 after 10:00 AM and before 10:00 PM Eastern Time Zone

 

Those 70' rear end's you have, is that 8.2 or 8.5 GM?

 

They are 8.5" 10 bolt ring gear, with 12 bolt Olds housing for 1970 A Body, (F-85 thru 442). These rears where the standard rear/ratio for all 1970 Rallye 350 models. Also, the 3:23 ratio was standard for 442/W30 with A/C. If you need just the ring and pinion the price is $250.00 and $30.00 labor to remove from rear, Total $280.00 plus actual shipping.

 

I have the original stock 1969 SA coded rear, 2:78 gears Type O axle for my 1969 Cutlass S. Wanting to switch up the gear ratio to a 3:23 or 3:42 and rather just swap the complete rear end. Not a racing car. Will be driving out of town occasionally.

 

These are SE code 70'. I have three to sell. They will bolt right in for your 69'. They will of course need cleaning/painting. Your brake hardware will also bolt right up. The 70' rear have a much better and more reliable axle seal/bearing arrangement than the 68-69 rears.

 

have a open ring and pinion diff just out of my 68 442 72,000 mi clean think there stock 323gears need new bearings and shims of corse free! plus shipping to help you get it on the road. good luck!

 

didn't tell you its type o/se

 

What does open mean?

 

Non-posi (limited slip)

 

 

 

Just thought I'd add this. I know from experience that universal joint that's dried up and grinding up the needle bearings can make some noise.
Railguy