Hi, on my 69 cutlass the door windows don't wind all the way up it's just short.with the window all the way up or as far as it will go and the door open I can lift the glass up a little, is it a big job to sort it out. It's got be done. Also it looks like the rear passanger windows can open aswell am I right in thinking that.Cheers

 

You can get to those adjustment points after taking the interior door panels off. You'll see then, loosen the bolts a little and you should be able to wiggle the window around, then retighten after checking.

Hopefully nothing is broken in there....like those little plastic wheels/bushings.

If can get a factory service manual or checkout wildaboutcars website, they'll have pictures and schematics of the window regulators.

Check this post, it might help

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...djustment.html

 

Thankyou , helped allot

 

You don't mention which model you have...coupe, sedan, vert, standard hand crank or power? Not that there a huge difference but there is some and they're all a PITA. Make sure you door gaps are where you want them and the hinges are good and tight. If not adjust/repair these first. If its a vert, obviously the top needs to be adjusted properly before going at the windows. If its a sedan you have less adjustments to worry about as the door frame channels preset some of the axes (yes that's plural for axis). The coupe & vert will take a bit of finesse to get it close to 100%...A lot of give and take. Take the interior panels off of both sides. Even remove the seats... much more room to work, your neck and back will thank you, and the rears out already anyway.Take care to mark the original locations of everything so you can go back to the original starting point if necessary. Remember its quite possible somethings broke or warn out and the original factory adjustment locations may not be far off once the new parts are installed. Only do one adjustment at a time taking pictures and notes if needed (recommend if this is your first foray with this). Do only one side at a time that way if you get lost you can use the untouched side as a reference. Have all the new parts you might need installed before you start adjusting. So assess the conditions of everything and order the parts as needed then replace them then dive in. Clean and grease it all too. If your thinking of replacing the rubber seals or sweeps do this first. Then adjust. You need to over adjust slightly with new rubber as its fatter and will settle a bit or you can readjust as needed. I also use a conditioner once a year on the soft rubber to keep it soft.

 

Just to piggy back off what droldsmorland is saying, you have a lot of adjustment in that door..if you are not familiar with it bring to a glass shop because for a little money they can get it right. Specially if they have a senior tech who has seen your kind of adjustment before...However When I adjust I use the dollar bill method for tightness to the vehicles weatherstripping on the body. Roll window up close the door with the dollar bill half in and half out..you should be able to pull it out with tension on the pull and not rip the bill..make sure it's not to tight and throwing off adjustment to door striker..should have same tension from front to back as long as door seals are in god shape.

 

If there is up-and-down slop in the window regulator, adjustment is unlikely to be the fix. It's more likely that one of the plastic rollers in the window mechanism has broken, preventing the window from being raised fully. Once you get the inner door panel off, you'll be able to see these rollers pretty easily. Also, the mechanism often binds up because the grease on the tracks and rollers has hardened. Us only silicone grease to prevent petroleum-based products from attacking the plastic rollers.

 

Great notes guys. I forgot about the dollar bill and petroleum based products. And the key with the dollar bill as Sean noted is all the way along the window tops. There could be a very long section written up about window adjustment in these cars we drive. So many ***** to turn. Makes you wonder how they ever got it even close moving down an assembly line. They mostly did but often did not and had to be sent back to the dealer for minor tweaks if it whistled or leaked. Sometimes it was never fixed. Love to so speak with a few line workers on the process.
Two good lines of wisdom. If your not the DYI type take it to an expert as noted or be prepared to be very patient. If your patient you will be rewarded with a decent job.
One last note would be safety. Dont let the glass drop in the door or on the floor. Both are not good.

 

Hey guys I am new to the group. I have 71 cutlass supreme ,and my driver side window is now loose, shaky, as well as a chip in the glass after leaving her at the shop for a non related issue smh... One of the things that made my car speacial is that the windows, and doors functioned in a pristine fashion. Im just wondering what can be done to rest this new found dilemma?

 

Welcome. Start by getting one of these:



The Fisher Body Manual has all the diagrams and instructions for adjusting the windows to fit and operate properly. You can find them on ebay. Also, since you've resurrected this old thread, go up and read the part about looking for broken plastic window rollers. This is not uncommon, as the 45-year-old plastic can get brittle and break. Good luck.