Just spent 4 hours trying to install the driver side header on my '69 olds 350. After beating it with a BFH in all the spots that were touching I'm still unsuccesfull. I've done headers 2 times before on the same type of car. Doing it by myself is probabaly the main reason I can't do it. Or mybe its because theyre new cheapo flotech headers. I think I'm just going to go back to exhaust manifolds. Just wanted to vent. Any suggestions?

 

A bigger hammer? sorry I could not resist, I still don't know if I will put them on my '69 when I get to working on it again.

 

I had no problem with hedman headers. but i put copper gasets and two sets of hedman gasets and cant get them to seal.

 

I've had mixed luck with headers. The better brands seem to not require as much hammering. As far as gasket sealing A trick told me by Greg at Supercarsunlimited is to not tighten the center bolt until everything else is tight. Then just snug it. What I was doing was tightening it so much that it pulled the bottom center out away from the head and leaked. John

 

Maybe shorty headers would be a good compromise? That's the direction I am leaning.

 

Over the years I've found heating the offending pipe and putting a piece of 1/2 gal. pipe in the direction of the contact area, and then hitting it with a BFH, makes a better looking dent!?!
To me, copper exhaust gaskets are a timesaver, especially if you use the 'star' type lockwashers, and tighten again after hot!

 

Good tip John ( and Greg by default),
tx mike

 

Put a set of hooker headers on my 69. It has a 455 in it. Didn't have to use a BFH but, I found using the right words helped a lot.
Alb

 

What is the header touching?

 

You did relocate the brake distribution block, didn't you? I've also found that temporarily removing the steering shaft helps a lot. What else is hitting?

 

I must have gotten real lucky cause mine went right in my 68!!!!
But like others, they leak!!!!!

 

Just finished installing headders and a new 350 in my 70 convertible. Flotech coated. I did have problems at first and was about to grind the motor mounts. One was cracked so I bought a set of NAPA motor mounts and viola! I mocked up on my old engine first and found none of the issues I had with the previous mounts. The motor and headers slipped right in. Tight fit but everything cleared and the only issue was I had to deal with the engine oil dipstick hitting the headers. Check my album and you will see the photos

 

Original(factory) motor mounts? New ones will set the engine a bit higher. Yrs ago, I put dougs on a 65 442 w/ no problem. Seems like nowadays, q/c is down the tubes, and you have to deal with(modify) what you get.

 

I put a set on my 72' no big issues. I did use high temp gasket sealer and it worked really good, no leaks yet....

 

driver side is my problem...header touching the motor mount and the front tube is hitting the crossmember (engine cradle) the brake proportioning valve is not in the way. I grond down the top of the new motormount a little and beat the hell out of the spots touching on the header. I'm just going to wait for a buddy to come help me, cause you all know doing headers by youself just sucks!

 

I'm begining to think my main problem is because theyre Flow tech headers. Theyre cheap compaired to others. I've installed Headman and Hooker before on a '68 and on a '72 and didnt have much problem...You get what you pay for I guess.

 

Installed Hooker headers on my last 72 Cutlass Supreme, they went in with no problem. I did put in new motor mounts with the rebuild, it must of took me 30 min max. 4hrs would have me about to lose it!

 

Been there bruh.. Feel like chucking the hamer towards something breakable. I read about flowtech fitment on this forum tho. Im leaning towards Hooker.