Where to start?
September 26th, 2017 | 06:13 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 58
From: 14th State
Where to start?
Been reading till my eyes bleed, learned alot, head still feels empty though.
About to dive into a rebuild on the '69 350 long block I snagged a couple of weeks ago. Here's where we're at:
Block is torn down, will need a dunk, sonic check and a bore. Hoping .030 over will cure what ails it.
Crank has been turned 10/10, still looks real nice and bearings show no wear.
With a bore, I'd need to choose a piston to finish out the job, and possibly a minor cleanup to square the deck if it's off, or to end up close to zero. Rods resized, new bolts and top off with new pee-stones.
Have a set of #5 heads that need cleanup and checking out. Have had the crossovers plugged, new springs but gathered some corrosion before I got 'em. Most likely need new valves (stainless?).
May need everything, with luck clean and go after checking chamber CC.
Here's where I'm stuck.
Will need to pick a cam to make it all work together.
Plan is to swap it when done into a '78 Cutlass mated to a TH350. Gonna replace the 260/TH200 that lives there now. Looking for a solid driver, enough power to have some fun (9 - 9.5 CR) but not break the bank (or the 7.5 rear). Eventually move from the current low 2's up to a 3.08 rear gear.
Should I do the heads first, see where we end up with CC's and then spec the piston/cam combo and do the block?
Do the block prep and see where we end up? If it's NFG, fresh heads will be shelf weights for a bit.
It's a budget build that'll have to be done in stages as funds allow.
I'd follow a valid recipe if you'll share, as long as it doesn't say " Swap in a 455" That ain't gonna happen...
About to dive into a rebuild on the '69 350 long block I snagged a couple of weeks ago. Here's where we're at:
Block is torn down, will need a dunk, sonic check and a bore. Hoping .030 over will cure what ails it.
Crank has been turned 10/10, still looks real nice and bearings show no wear.
With a bore, I'd need to choose a piston to finish out the job, and possibly a minor cleanup to square the deck if it's off, or to end up close to zero. Rods resized, new bolts and top off with new pee-stones.
Have a set of #5 heads that need cleanup and checking out. Have had the crossovers plugged, new springs but gathered some corrosion before I got 'em. Most likely need new valves (stainless?).
May need everything, with luck clean and go after checking chamber CC.
Here's where I'm stuck.
Will need to pick a cam to make it all work together.
Plan is to swap it when done into a '78 Cutlass mated to a TH350. Gonna replace the 260/TH200 that lives there now. Looking for a solid driver, enough power to have some fun (9 - 9.5 CR) but not break the bank (or the 7.5 rear). Eventually move from the current low 2's up to a 3.08 rear gear.
Should I do the heads first, see where we end up with CC's and then spec the piston/cam combo and do the block?
Do the block prep and see where we end up? If it's NFG, fresh heads will be shelf weights for a bit.
It's a budget build that'll have to be done in stages as funds allow.
I'd follow a valid recipe if you'll share, as long as it doesn't say " Swap in a 455" That ain't gonna happen...
Last edited by WannaBa442; September 26th, 2017 at 06:57 PM.
September 26th, 2017 | 07:39 PM
#2
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,249
From: Palm Bay, FL
The pistons, deck height, compressed thickness of the head gasket and chamber volume will tell you what to do about the camshaft. Mark can help you with that aspect of things.
As far as the rear end goes....yeah. I had a bone stock 75 350 in an 80 Cutlass many moons ago and I tossed the rear end three separate times. Granted all three times it was a factory 2.28 geared open, but I eventually installed a 3.23 posi that managed to stay together for me.
If you have to keep the 7.5 then make sure you at least get a cover with cap supports built into it as that will save you in the long run. Not only for the supports, but for the extra capacity it will give you for gear oil.
As far as the rear end goes....yeah. I had a bone stock 75 350 in an 80 Cutlass many moons ago and I tossed the rear end three separate times. Granted all three times it was a factory 2.28 geared open, but I eventually installed a 3.23 posi that managed to stay together for me.
If you have to keep the 7.5 then make sure you at least get a cover with cap supports built into it as that will save you in the long run. Not only for the supports, but for the extra capacity it will give you for gear oil.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
emarkay
Small Blocks
8
December 8th, 2004 09:23 AM
