Shifter assembly from my 1970 442 clone.
Is it worth selling or just toss it ??
I want to get rid of it ASAP along with the other parts I took off the car for my swap.

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Sell it for sure, people are always looking for them for floor shift conversions. If nothing else give it away instead of the trash pile. Nice work on your car BTW I've been following your thread, looking forward to the finished product. Not sure on the price, would say $50-$75?

 

Thanks, you and me both!!!

Custom EFI fuel tank setup has been kicking my **** lately.....
I think today I finally got that sucker figured out with a Gates flexible fuel filler hose.

 

do not toss it, heck keep in in the trunk and sell it at the next cruise-in to an local olds guy.

 

I have a TON of stuff I need to unload Steve.
I just don't have room to keep it in a 1 car garage with 2 motorcycles, and all my tools.
My trunks are full, and I'm just not putting it in my attic.
I am not the type to hold onto it for long.

I should post up my AC stuff too so I can get ballpark figures on that stuff too.
Any thoughts on what this stuff is worth too ??
I have the AC Condensor and and the engine bay huge part as well in good condition. NO pic yet.
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no, not sure the value of that stuff, but shortly I will be going through my AC, I should see if I need anything, you are so close it would save a lot of hassles for both of us if I needed something.

 

Hi I like the quality work you've done with your cutlass. I could use the floor shift and and related parts to help with my console conversion. Tell me what you would like for the shifter and related parts. Also please give me the heads up on the parts you are needing to sell/clear out. Many thanks & I really like your posts to others posts. Almost all the time I agree with what you have to say, or learn from your posts. Thanks, fred

 

Ace I wish I was still close to you. I'd take that A/C stuff off your hands in a minute. My box has a nice big hole in it where someone smashed into it when installing an engine.

 

The AC and heater box are certainly worth selling if you no longer want AC. So many people reinstalling them after racers long ago pulled them for weight savings.

If the outer box would not interfere with your LS engine, you should keep it (and the heater box) and have climate control in your converted car for little installation pain!

 

Rob.

The problem is I'm not sure what compressor will work with the Olds setup at all.
I'm not very knowledgeable on AC stuff. Then there's the POA valve I heard is not easy to solve.
To me, that implies rarity for the POA stuff and I hate paying top dollar for 40 year old technology.

If I could make the Olds AC stuff work, I'd keep it.
That's just the problem. I don't know if it will because of the compressor issue.

I've been looking into Vintage Air and Classic Auto Air options.
For a complete Chevelle system it's $1200.....
I'm assuming Olds being an A-body will be the same.

 

You CAN use any of the newer compressors with the stock evaporator. Note that classic auto air does not even sell an improved version - just a replacement. That way your firewall stuff can stay original.
The POA eliminator switch conversions will work with most of the Sandens and other newer (non A6)compressors.
The rest of the system is not designed around the POA - it is just a glorified pressure regulator that has become rare to find. They are easy to test, I discovered...
I might be interested in your POA valve should you want to sell it.

Expansion valve and drier can be had at Rockauto for cheap - nothing too special there.

If going with r134, the condenser you would want to upgrade to the parallel flow unit that Classic auto air sells for 299 - stock mounts and connection locations.
CAA also sells all the lines and fittings to connect it all up.

Personally, if the evap box clears your LS motor, the setup in the AC thread by O's car seems just what you need! Let's see how his goes....

I was intimidated by A/C for a while, but now after so much research, it is not as much rocket science as I lead myself to believe.

 

THanks, what I REALLY need is a picture that shows me all the components, as well as the function of each component, and the flow.

THat would help me understand it better.
I created a thread awhile ago on this but I still don't understand the full complexity of all the tubes on the firewall stuff.

 

Some good diags can be had in the CSM. If you do not have, I can post....

 

I think I have E-copies in PDF of each section of the CSM

I also have a hard copy. You know where they're at by chance??

 

Ace’s,
I just bought the same shifter you posted with console for 200 bucks. I really just needed the shifter, 50 to 75 bucks is a good price.

 

I just sold my regular shifter like that one without the NSS, but with a new cable for $100.

 

Look in the VERY front of the manual, second section. It is called "general AC information". Here you will find the theory of operation and the flow and such.


The POA's job (better explained) is to keep the minimum evap pressure at 28psi. If it starts to drop below that (like on cooler days with low freon flow), the valve starts to close so pressure can build back up to 28psi. Should it be defective and pressures drop way below that, the evap would get too cold and condensate on it would freeze.
On hot days, the POA would be wide open and allow full freon flow.
Expansion valve regulates incoming liquid freon and, using pressure and outlet temperature sensing, keeps the evap saturated with liquid freon, making the system very efficient. The expansion valve is not old tech like the POA - they are still used in many home and industrial refrigeration systems. I requested one be installed in my home AC when it died 7 years ago. The tech claimed it would add about 1 seer at best, but who knows. All I know it works wonderfully.