Co-worker (no, really) drives late model Hyundai sedan. There's an high pitch whistling noise which changes back and forth to a loud buzzing noise that sounds like it's coming from the front right wheel area.

Sound gets louder as you drive faster but not in the sense of the rotor and pad grinding faster and slower...it's not a scraping sound...more like a whistle.

Only reasons I'd say it's coming from the wheel and isn't some odd heater blower sound is that 1) it happens with the heat off, 2) it doesn't happen when car isn't moving, and also....the whistling or buzzing noises stops instantly when the brakes are applied.

Thoughts ?

 

Check your brakes!

 

copied from justbrakes.com

"Most likely your brake pads are worn sufficiently enough to allow their "wear indicators" or "sensor" to touch the disc brake rotor. When this occurs the "sensor" emits that high pitch noise designed to warn you that your brakes need immediate attention. Have them checked promptly by a certified brake system specialist and have the brakes serviced before expensive damage or loss of brakes occurs."

 

With all due respects, maybe check Hyundai Forums . I also joined them to ask questions about my 07 Sonata. One of their mods NovaResource I found very knowledgeable about all things Hyundai. They are also free to join BTW.

 

Were the brake pads changed? If so then the anti-rattle clips could have been omitted or they are poor fitting to the caliper.

 

thx...was the strangest vehicle noise I ever heard. It's actually her father in law's car so who knows about the pads...but was not a grinding noise that increased in frequency as the car sped up. a constant high pitch hiss that got louder as the car went faster.

if not for the fact that the sounds cease immediately when the brakes are applied I would swear it couldn't be a sound that pads/rotors are capable of making.

 

There's so many things it could be on transverse mounted engines. But losing the sound on brake application is downright weird. Any chance it could be wheel bearings or an ABS sensor?

 

Did you see where the guy in Irving TX's Hyundai Alantra had the throttle stick and he took a ride down the highways in Texas doing sometimes over 130. Highway patrol and local sheriff depts were going over 130 trying to clear the highway ahead of him. He was on 911 talking to the dispatch the whole time. He finally wrecked out in Sulphur Springs. Hurt him but not life threatening. I'm surprised the car engine lasted that long at that RPM. It is normally about a two hour drive that took him about an hour and fifteen minutes.

 

You sure that wasn't this one in MO with a KIA Sorrento?

 

Why are you surprised? With todays tech, engines can stay at 5-7000 rpms for quite some time. Computers compensate for everything.

 

No, it was locally around Dallas. Happened back Dec 2, 2012. The news here interviewed the 911 operator last week. The cops finally released the info to the public.

 

Seems like Toyota must have passed along the stuck accelerator problem to other manufacturers. I keep wondering why the key couldn't be turned off. I had the throttle stick on my 1995 Olds Regency Elite once (that was enough). Turned out to be an electrical issue with a weatherpack connector. But I was sure enough able to turn the car off and glide to a stop. I'm glad that no one in these 2 incidents was killed.

 

I can never figure out why people just don't turn the key off. You still have brakes and steering. Yes harder to sop and steer without the power assist but you can do it. or put in neutral and let the engine blow

 

Pat, the report on the one I posted said that the key couldn't be turned off or the car shifted out of drive. Not sure what really happened or whether there was a followup. I'd think that most people would panic at the point where they are stuck at WOT and possibly not follow instructions? Even the Toyo owners reported the same thing. Doesn't make a lick of sense to me either, but thank God I wasn't there to experience it.