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My .02, use studs. You can source the appropriate length, at the hardware store, available in stainless and use flange nuts. Studs make it easy to stack the gaskets & spacer, positions them dead on, every time, I think you get a better feel tightening them as well.
Im guessing 1 1/2” as the ballpark length.
….
Not a great pic here but....Olds used a VARIETY of headmarkings on their valve cover bolts. Here are two Olds originals that are very close to the style and marking shown in the McMaster-Carr drawing.
>Three lines/slashes on both
>The Olds bolts I show also have 3 small dots on the headmarking....doesn't look like the McMaster bolts have any dots.
Sure, the "P", "E" and "L" headmarkings (w/the three slashes as well) may be more common but as shown in my pic, they apparently did have some w/no letter on them.
Only other thing I can think of might be cutting/machining off the threaded portion of the stock bolts, center drilling the underside of the bolt heads slightly, cutting whatever length threaded rod and somehow TIG welding them to the underside of stock bolt heads. Likely a time consuming and expensive endeavor unless you have the equipment.
I may have to add a spacer under my stock 65 valve covers due to running Harland Sharp rockers…
‘Did Olds ever make different length rocker cover bolts?
Or I’d love to find a way to lengthen stock bolts.
Any ideas welcome.
Peter, I have ran stock covers with Sharp rockers. I cut the excess length off the stud and ran short poly locks. It was in my 66 442 W30 track pack I raced @ the NMCA races back in the 90's.
Yeah - Olds went sort of crazy I guess with all the different valve cover bolt suppliers or markings!
Cool thread as you get some great solutions that folks have proven. See if you can design a smaller and/or lower profile baffle for the valve cover to at least keep some oil away from the breathers. You're dealing w/steel so easy enough and easy to attach stuff to w/a welder. Maybe use the existing baffles....remove most of the material, cut and rebend areas as needed.....time to experiment which is always fun when you're doing cool custom stuff like this.
Well since you said "any ideas welcome", You could try looking for the tall Olds performance aluminum aftermarket tall valve covers or something like these
Peter, I found these early '64/'65 no baffle and no hole valve covers to use with Harland Sharp rockers. A hole saw and MOPAR grommets and baffled vent cans worked nicely for me. With your talents I'm sure you could whittle the openings to use the Olds grommets. Flange head bolts are available at most auto parts stores and Tractor Supply as well.
I may have to add a spacer under my stock 65 valve covers due to running Harland Sharp rockers…
‘Did Olds ever make different length rocker cover bolts?
Or I’d love to find a way to lengthen stock bolts.
Any ideas welcome.
I’ve been using the Mac Carr 5/8” ones with double stacked .187” Ultra seals #5875. you can even squeeze in a third thin gasket if you have too. This has cleared all rockers and adjuster nuts. if not then hammer the baffle a bit..I’ve never had to using the double stack though.
best thing is it still look stock because you only see one gasket that gets painted.
Or use three stacked FelPro #VS 50259 R..they’re.172”
they are also needed when using thick aluminum covers with one thick gasket
Last edited by CANADIANOLDS; May 26, 2025 at 06:50 AM.
Bill travato says they’ll fit if I bring the baffles out Mike.
I’ll try for that option first…I just want a back up plan.
Patton, I’ve found all 5 of these on various 65’s I believe, but the 3 that are circled are known 65 bolts.
I still had the baffles in my stock covers when I did what I told you I did. I think it was some short Chevy poly locks and I think I had to cut a little off the studs but it's been so long I can't remember if I just used the short locks or cut the studs too.
