Value of '67 4-4-2 Short Block
#1
Value of '67 4-4-2 Short Block
This short block has been under my work bench for 20+ years.
I personally drove home the car it was in.
Parted the car due to excessive rust.
Although I'm 95% certain this engine was never down since new,
I consider it a core for rebuilding.
Also have a bare block that needs align bored.
Intend to sell both items, but not sure what the values are.
Can someone give me a "ball park" idea what these are worth?
I personally drove home the car it was in.
Parted the car due to excessive rust.
Although I'm 95% certain this engine was never down since new,
I consider it a core for rebuilding.
Also have a bare block that needs align bored.
Intend to sell both items, but not sure what the values are.
Can someone give me a "ball park" idea what these are worth?
Last edited by 67442nut; October 21st, 2015 at 08:28 PM.
#3
Boat anchors when the blocks are empty! The 425 ,455,350 are engines that more guys want.Sure if a guy has a 67 442 it would be nice to have a correct year motor for the car.The problem is it cost more to ship than it is worth. My guess is on value short block range of $125 to $200. If the 400 engines have crank and pistons then this should be closer to the $200 I have bought 455 engines for $100 that were short blocks and needed to be bored.
#4
I have crank, pistons (new Sealed Power forged), rods, C heads, brackets, pulleys, water pump - basically everything except the carb, intake, and exhaust manifolds. I guess I need to advertise directly to someone restoring a 442.
#5
You are talking guts for a refresh motor different story and worth more than $200.00.JMO
#6
E blocks were only used in 1966-67 442, Turnpike Cruiser and I think some Vista Cruisers in 1967. I consider them very desirable and hard to find. I recently drove 1500 round trip to get a core engine for a 1967 442 project. The price of anything is what you can get for it, but I would gladly trade two 455's for an E block 400 engine in similar condition and completeness. In my part of the country 350's and 455's are common and easy to find. Consider how many years/models of cars they came in vs. the E block 400's. So whatever a 455 block, short block or long block sells for in your part of the country I'd double that for the E block 400 parts. If your crankshaft is drilled for the 4 speed that's better yet.
My 2 cents worth. John
My 2 cents worth. John
#7
Ed, I would pay 1k for a correct 67 442 long block, carb to pan, and 8 to 900 for it with no carb or ex manifolds. A short block with all the guts I'd say would be worth half that, so 400 to 500 or so. The clincher is those V------G stamped C heads (for the long block.)
Last edited by Koda; October 22nd, 2015 at 07:48 PM.
#8
'66-67's had forged cranks.
I wouldn't sell the crank alone for $200.,
especially considering it's most likely a standard crank.
Several years ago, I paid $275. for a standard 4-speed crank
and I don't feel I overpaid.
I think $250.-300. is a fair price for a good bare block.
350's and 455 are a dime a dozen.
I recently scrapped a 350 block that had been hot tanked
and had new cam bearings because I couldn't give it away.
A friend who owns a machine shop gave it to me
because HE couldn't give it away!
425's are desirable since they are basically
the same engine as the "E" blocks only with more displacement.
I believe the crankshafts are even the same.
I wouldn't sell the crank alone for $200.,
especially considering it's most likely a standard crank.
Several years ago, I paid $275. for a standard 4-speed crank
and I don't feel I overpaid.
I think $250.-300. is a fair price for a good bare block.
350's and 455 are a dime a dozen.
I recently scrapped a 350 block that had been hot tanked
and had new cam bearings because I couldn't give it away.
A friend who owns a machine shop gave it to me
because HE couldn't give it away!
425's are desirable since they are basically
the same engine as the "E" blocks only with more displacement.
I believe the crankshafts are even the same.
Last edited by 67442nut; October 22nd, 2015 at 08:16 PM.
#9
Hey, John, how're ya doin'.
Your numbers are more in line with what I was thinking.
In fact, over the last several years, I've occasionally
seen them sell in the price ranges you've mentioned.
I just wasn't sure what the realistic current values were.
Doesn't your car have the original engine?
If you need one, PM me to discuss.
(P.S. I think, technically, the definition of a long block is a short block with heads.)
Last edited by 67442nut; October 22nd, 2015 at 08:07 PM.
#11
The interest in the "E" and "G" block 400's seems to be
pretty much confined to someone wanting a correct engine for a restoration.
Even though the 400's and 425's rev faster with their shorter strokes,
the longer stroke, higher torque and bigger displacement benefits of the 455 seem to be
much more popular for racing and hot rodding.
Also, the "D" block 350's durability seems to makes them more popular for the big builds.
#12
Verify V######G stamp on a head end or similar if 1966 issue.
I would say a fair price for that much 442-only motor would be on the order of $1k.
I don't think the VC had a 400 option until 1968 but others are more educated than I.
This is not a 350 or 455 or even a 425. Anyone can get those.
I would say a fair price for that much 442-only motor would be on the order of $1k.
I don't think the VC had a 400 option until 1968 but others are more educated than I.
This is not a 350 or 455 or even a 425. Anyone can get those.
#14
No disrespect intended. This is JMO. That people will over pay just so they can say i have a period correct motor!!I would rather have the 455 with more parts that are easy to find. Having a period correct motor means nothing! It is still the wrong motor! Back to up in smoke channel!LOL
#15
No disrespect intended. This is JMO. That people will over pay just so they can say i have a period correct motor!!I would rather have the 455 with more parts that are easy to find. Having a period correct motor means nothing! It is still the wrong motor! Back to up in smoke channel!LOL
I haven't figured out yet if you're a troll or simply unaware of how abrasive you are. It seems that every post you make is insulting and offensive to many of the members of this site.
#16
And how is period correct any less important than cubic inches? Why is it that anyone who doesn't think exactly like you is "overpaying," implying they're stupid? Different strokes (and bores, ha!) for different folks. You were just proved wrong regarding the value of these engines; why can't you just accept it and learn? Boat anchors? Sheesh.
I haven't figured out yet if you're a troll or simply unaware of how abrasive you are. It seems that every post you make is insulting and offensive to many of the members of this site.
I haven't figured out yet if you're a troll or simply unaware of how abrasive you are. It seems that every post you make is insulting and offensive to many of the members of this site.
Last edited by wr1970; October 23rd, 2015 at 08:00 PM.
#17
I definately think the E block 400 is worth more than 200 bucks. I dont know if i would pay 1000 for one but i would pay a fair price. Not sayin 1000 isnt fair. I wouldnt mind having a spare. I have 2 67's one has a 455 in it. The one im building has the "i think" original motor, cant be for sure. I havnt actually driven a built 455 car, but i do know these E 400's are fast. My high school girl friend had a 74 455 cutlass, smog motor and that thing hauled ***!
#18
I definately think the E block 400 is worth more than 200 bucks. I dont know if i would pay 1000 for one but i would pay a fair price. Not sayin 1000 isnt fair. I wouldnt mind having a spare. I have 2 67's one has a 455 in it. The one im building has the "i think" original motor, cant be for sure. I havnt actually driven a built 455 car, but i do know these E 400's are fast. My high school girl friend had a 74 455 cutlass, smog motor and that thing hauled ***!
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