tune up for 72 cutlass
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Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 752
tune up for 72 cutlass
well since I got my car, havent done a tune up and this will be my first.
I figured I would replace the spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor.
I got a few estimates from partsgeek and Jegs, have you guys come across other sites with good deals?
Also any preference to which parts to get or brand?
Right now I figured Id get:
* AMC; GM Performance Tan Cap and Rotor
* Accel Spark Plugs 137 - Accel U-Groove Spark Plugs
and
*Accel 4040R - Accel SuperStock Plug Wires
it's costing my around $100, let me know if you guys would go with a different choices, input appreciated.
I figured I would replace the spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor.
I got a few estimates from partsgeek and Jegs, have you guys come across other sites with good deals?
Also any preference to which parts to get or brand?
Right now I figured Id get:
* AMC; GM Performance Tan Cap and Rotor
* Accel Spark Plugs 137 - Accel U-Groove Spark Plugs
and
*Accel 4040R - Accel SuperStock Plug Wires
it's costing my around $100, let me know if you guys would go with a different choices, input appreciated.
NOVICE car nut
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,140
From: Milwaukee Wisconsin
well since I got my car, havent done a tune up and this will be my first.
I figured I would replace the spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor.
I got a few estimates from partsgeek and Jegs, have you guys come across other sites with good deals?
Also any preference to which parts to get or brand?
Right now I figured Id get:
* AMC; GM Performance Tan Cap and Rotor
* Accel Spark Plugs 137 - Accel U-Groove Spark Plugs
and
*Accel 4040R - Accel SuperStock Plug Wires
it's costing my around $100, let me know if you guys would go with a different choices, input appreciated.
I figured I would replace the spark plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor.
I got a few estimates from partsgeek and Jegs, have you guys come across other sites with good deals?
Also any preference to which parts to get or brand?
Right now I figured Id get:
* AMC; GM Performance Tan Cap and Rotor
* Accel Spark Plugs 137 - Accel U-Groove Spark Plugs
and
*Accel 4040R - Accel SuperStock Plug Wires
it's costing my around $100, let me know if you guys would go with a different choices, input appreciated.
, mine were pitted so bad that the one side of it was completely gone.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 15,116
From: southeastern Michigan
I may get chewed up for it, but I always buy the house brand. I go to Autozone mostly, and that's Duralast.
When I did the tune-up on my '67 Delta 88 with a 425, I bought Autolite sparkplugs at $1.99 each and Duralast brand cap, rotor, point set, and coil. Whole thing cost around $70. I didn't buy plug wires because the ones there looked OK. Car starts at the touch of the key and runs like a top.
What would I get for spending the extra money on the higher end brands? I have nothing against them, I just don't see what I'm getting. I don't drive the car at all hard. It's a boulevard cruiser.
Some will likely say that the name-brand stuff will last longer, and that might be true, but I've had this car for two years and have put 1000 miles on it in that time. It's not my daily driver. I'm in my mid-50s. I'll likely be dead before I end up putting 20,000 miles on it. If I have to change out those parts once before the end, I'll actually enjoy it.
When I did the tune-up on my '67 Delta 88 with a 425, I bought Autolite sparkplugs at $1.99 each and Duralast brand cap, rotor, point set, and coil. Whole thing cost around $70. I didn't buy plug wires because the ones there looked OK. Car starts at the touch of the key and runs like a top.
What would I get for spending the extra money on the higher end brands? I have nothing against them, I just don't see what I'm getting. I don't drive the car at all hard. It's a boulevard cruiser.
Some will likely say that the name-brand stuff will last longer, and that might be true, but I've had this car for two years and have put 1000 miles on it in that time. It's not my daily driver. I'm in my mid-50s. I'll likely be dead before I end up putting 20,000 miles on it. If I have to change out those parts once before the end, I'll actually enjoy it.
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
I may get chewed up for it, but I always buy the house brand. I go to Autozone mostly, and that's Duralast.
When I did the tune-up on my '67 Delta 88 with a 425, I bought Autolite sparkplugs at $1.99 each and Duralast brand cap, rotor, point set, and coil. Whole thing cost around $70. I didn't buy plug wires because the ones there looked OK. Car starts at the touch of the key and runs like a top.
What would I get for spending the extra money on the higher end brands? I have nothing against them, I just don't see what I'm getting. I don't drive the car at all hard. It's a boulevard cruiser.
Some will likely say that the name-brand stuff will last longer, and that might be true, but I've had this car for two years and have put 1000 miles on it in that time. It's not my daily driver. I'm in my mid-50s. I'll likely be dead before I end up putting 20,000 miles on it. If I have to change out those parts once before the end, I'll actually enjoy it.
When I did the tune-up on my '67 Delta 88 with a 425, I bought Autolite sparkplugs at $1.99 each and Duralast brand cap, rotor, point set, and coil. Whole thing cost around $70. I didn't buy plug wires because the ones there looked OK. Car starts at the touch of the key and runs like a top.
What would I get for spending the extra money on the higher end brands? I have nothing against them, I just don't see what I'm getting. I don't drive the car at all hard. It's a boulevard cruiser.
Actually, I can't blame you. If the car isn't being judged for concours, who cares? With today's production standards, it's not too likely those parts will fail sooner than later...
OMG!! You sound just like me!!
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
I have a set of front brake lines and caliper pins coming up. (fleabay) One of the biggest problems with buying is NOT the price of the parts, it's intl shipping. Most sellers I've run into tend to overcharge by about 250% to 'cover the cost of their warehouse staff'. I thought that was part of the cost of doing business. And crossing borders tends to trigger the customs dudes with their ever open palms.
"Car"mudgeon
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,191
From: Perry, GA
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 752
I may get chewed up for it, but I always buy the house brand. I go to Autozone mostly, and that's Duralast.
When I did the tune-up on my '67 Delta 88 with a 425, I bought Autolite sparkplugs at $1.99 each and Duralast brand cap, rotor, point set, and coil. Whole thing cost around $70. I didn't buy plug wires because the ones there looked OK. Car starts at the touch of the key and runs like a top.
What would I get for spending the extra money on the higher end brands? I have nothing against them, I just don't see what I'm getting. I don't drive the car at all hard. It's a boulevard cruiser.
Some will likely say that the name-brand stuff will last longer, and that might be true, but I've had this car for two years and have put 1000 miles on it in that time. It's not my daily driver. I'm in my mid-50s. I'll likely be dead before I end up putting 20,000 miles on it. If I have to change out those parts once before the end, I'll actually enjoy it.
When I did the tune-up on my '67 Delta 88 with a 425, I bought Autolite sparkplugs at $1.99 each and Duralast brand cap, rotor, point set, and coil. Whole thing cost around $70. I didn't buy plug wires because the ones there looked OK. Car starts at the touch of the key and runs like a top.
What would I get for spending the extra money on the higher end brands? I have nothing against them, I just don't see what I'm getting. I don't drive the car at all hard. It's a boulevard cruiser.
Some will likely say that the name-brand stuff will last longer, and that might be true, but I've had this car for two years and have put 1000 miles on it in that time. It's not my daily driver. I'm in my mid-50s. I'll likely be dead before I end up putting 20,000 miles on it. If I have to change out those parts once before the end, I'll actually enjoy it.
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
you gotta point, i was thinking of stopping by pepboys to see what they have to offer. I bought a K&N filter for 70bucks from there but same thing online was $40 so they may easily rip us off and it may be better to get it online and have some money left over for half a tank of gas
Administrator
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 42,385
From: Poteau, Ok
The key thing here is to shop around (whether on line) or by phone to find the best price before you buy. Be careful about the on line experience - the shipping cost can offset most of the savings, and buying locally may cost more but supports your local businesses. It's a real tradeoff experience. Bottom line? It's YOU who has to be happy with the result. I also like having some money left for gas and other nice things.
I also would rather deal with a local autoparts store so if there is a defect I can easily swap it out.
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
I just like going to my local O'Reilleys or NAPA autoparts store, and getting what I need, perform the task at hand, and moving on to something else. I don't really dwell or spend hours n hours, trying to save $10.
I also would rather deal with a local autoparts store so if there is a defect I can easily swap it out.
Yes, that's definitely a way to do it. And no criticism from me for that approach. Sometimes I used that exact approach too. But then again, I was working and pulling in big bucks, which afforded that luxury.
But also consider:
Now that I'm retired however, I have plenty of time to search for deals. Somehow life has a gentler slope when you're not under tight work deadlines. On a pension however, I do tend to be more careful about spending an extra $10 when I don't have to and my time doesn't cost me anything. It gives me more opportunities to learn. On a side note though, and considering others who may be facing financial hardships, the state of the economy often dictates choices for others who also need to be mindful of their expenses. I know that for the working guy, time is money. Realistically, project money usually comes in second fiddle to necessities of life.
But also consider:
Now that I'm retired however, I have plenty of time to search for deals. Somehow life has a gentler slope when you're not under tight work deadlines. On a pension however, I do tend to be more careful about spending an extra $10 when I don't have to and my time doesn't cost me anything. It gives me more opportunities to learn. On a side note though, and considering others who may be facing financial hardships, the state of the economy often dictates choices for others who also need to be mindful of their expenses. I know that for the working guy, time is money. Realistically, project money usually comes in second fiddle to necessities of life.
An excellent point that most of us overlook from time to time! Thanks for adding that
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 15,116
From: southeastern Michigan
I recently replaced the plugs on my '02 Dodge Dakota. The truck has just over 100,000 miles. I bought it used when it had 75,000, and I had never done the plugs. It ran fine until recently when it stumbled on start-up and the check-engine light came on. I took it to Autozone for a free reading of the code, and it came back as misfiring in cylinders 5 and 6 (it's a V-6), so I bought new plugs to put in.
Well, I was shocked at how bad the old plugs were. I had never seen plugs that had had that much of the electrodes worn away. In one case, there was almost nothing left, and I was surprised the plug would work at all. Of course, with the new plugs in, the truck ran much better, although I didn't think it ran that badly before.
The moral of the story, though, was that a spark plug will still work even though it is significantly worn. The loss in engine performance as a result of plug wear is slow and gradual, and you don't notice it because there is no abrupt change in the way the engine runs. Until, eventually, the plugs get so bad that the poorer engine performance becomes noticeable. So change your plugs regularly!
It's like when you go to the eye doctor after having lived with the same eyeglass prescription for several years. He tells you that your prescription has changed, holds up new lenses in front of your eyes, and suddenly you can see again. Because the changes in your eyesight were so gradual, you just took the clarity of your vision as normal and never realized what you were missing.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,275
From: Boise ID
I believe in buying that little stuff from the local boys that way if there is a problem (warranty or otherwise) there might be someone there that can help.
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 752
Cool. What did the old plugs look like?
I recently replaced the plugs on my '02 Dodge Dakota. The truck has just over 100,000 miles. I bought it used when it had 75,000, and I had never done the plugs. It ran fine until recently when it stumbled on start-up and the check-engine light came on. I took it to Autozone for a free reading of the code, and it came back as misfiring in cylinders 5 and 6 (it's a V-6), so I bought new plugs to put in.
Well, I was shocked at how bad the old plugs were. I had never seen plugs that had had that much of the electrodes worn away. In one case, there was almost nothing left, and I was surprised the plug would work at all. Of course, with the new plugs in, the truck ran much better, although I didn't think it ran that badly before.
The moral of the story, though, was that a spark plug will still work even though it is significantly worn. The loss in engine performance as a result of plug wear is slow and gradual, and you don't notice it because there is no abrupt change in the way the engine runs. Until, eventually, the plugs get so bad that the poorer engine performance becomes noticeable. So change your plugs regularly!
It's like when you go to the eye doctor after having lived with the same eyeglass prescription for several years. He tells you that your prescription has changed, holds up new lenses in front of your eyes, and suddenly you can see again. Because the changes in your eyesight were so gradual, you just took the clarity of your vision as normal and never realized what you were missing.
I recently replaced the plugs on my '02 Dodge Dakota. The truck has just over 100,000 miles. I bought it used when it had 75,000, and I had never done the plugs. It ran fine until recently when it stumbled on start-up and the check-engine light came on. I took it to Autozone for a free reading of the code, and it came back as misfiring in cylinders 5 and 6 (it's a V-6), so I bought new plugs to put in.
Well, I was shocked at how bad the old plugs were. I had never seen plugs that had had that much of the electrodes worn away. In one case, there was almost nothing left, and I was surprised the plug would work at all. Of course, with the new plugs in, the truck ran much better, although I didn't think it ran that badly before.
The moral of the story, though, was that a spark plug will still work even though it is significantly worn. The loss in engine performance as a result of plug wear is slow and gradual, and you don't notice it because there is no abrupt change in the way the engine runs. Until, eventually, the plugs get so bad that the poorer engine performance becomes noticeable. So change your plugs regularly!
It's like when you go to the eye doctor after having lived with the same eyeglass prescription for several years. He tells you that your prescription has changed, holds up new lenses in front of your eyes, and suddenly you can see again. Because the changes in your eyesight were so gradual, you just took the clarity of your vision as normal and never realized what you were missing.
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
re spark plugs: if they came out looking black you're running too rich a mixture. You need to adjust that soon or your new plugs will get fouled up too. While you're upgrading the plugs, it sure wouldn't hurt to put in a new set of plug wires too. Not terribly expensive (niehoff works pretty good for me at a decent price)
The distributor cap and rotor doesn't sound like metal rubbing. You're describing something that is probably associated with the starter motor or flywheel. Could be something as simple as a weak solenoid on the starter. Does the sound go away when you start the car?
The distributor cap and rotor doesn't sound like metal rubbing. You're describing something that is probably associated with the starter motor or flywheel. Could be something as simple as a weak solenoid on the starter. Does the sound go away when you start the car?
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 752
re spark plugs: if they came out looking black you're running too rich a mixture. You need to adjust that soon or your new plugs will get fouled up too. While you're upgrading the plugs, it sure wouldn't hurt to put in a new set of plug wires too. Not terribly expensive (niehoff works pretty good for me at a decent price)
The distributor cap and rotor doesn't sound like metal rubbing. You're describing something that is probably associated with the starter motor or flywheel. Could be something as simple as a weak solenoid on the starter. Does the sound go away when you start the car?
The distributor cap and rotor doesn't sound like metal rubbing. You're describing something that is probably associated with the starter motor or flywheel. Could be something as simple as a weak solenoid on the starter. Does the sound go away when you start the car?
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
I would start by replacing just the solenoid. It's possible that a weak solenoid won't retract the drive gear and cause a grinding sound. Solenoid is pretty easy to replace, and not that expensive. Try that first. Also you might want to take off the inspection cover and take a look at the flywheel to see if it's showing any signs of fresh grinding.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2011
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hey Allan
here is the deal, when I bought the car the guy had a bungee cord pulling the starter cable line and putting tension on it as he said the cable was loose and the car would not start at times.
So yesterday at a car show I couldnt crank the car, as a buddy of mine wiggled the cable right by the starter, it catched the transmission and fired up.
What I want to do now is replace that cable, I assume its going into the solenoid, my question is do I have to remove the starter unit, it's kind of hard to get around there so not sure if the exhaust line needs to come off to. Also is the end of cable unit a snap on attachment or some of from of tightening with a bolt? your thoughts / input appreciated.
here is the deal, when I bought the car the guy had a bungee cord pulling the starter cable line and putting tension on it as he said the cable was loose and the car would not start at times.
So yesterday at a car show I couldnt crank the car, as a buddy of mine wiggled the cable right by the starter, it catched the transmission and fired up.
What I want to do now is replace that cable, I assume its going into the solenoid, my question is do I have to remove the starter unit, it's kind of hard to get around there so not sure if the exhaust line needs to come off to. Also is the end of cable unit a snap on attachment or some of from of tightening with a bolt? your thoughts / input appreciated.
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
hey Allan
here is the deal, when I bought the car the guy had a bungee cord pulling the starter cable line and putting tension on it as he said the cable was loose and the car would not start at times.
So yesterday at a car show I couldnt crank the car, as a buddy of mine wiggled the cable right by the starter, it catched the transmission and fired up.
What I want to do now is replace that cable, I assume its going into the solenoid, my question is do I have to remove the starter unit, it's kind of hard to get around there so not sure if the exhaust line needs to come off to. Also is the end of cable unit a snap on attachment or some of from of tightening with a bolt? your thoughts / input appreciated.
here is the deal, when I bought the car the guy had a bungee cord pulling the starter cable line and putting tension on it as he said the cable was loose and the car would not start at times.
So yesterday at a car show I couldnt crank the car, as a buddy of mine wiggled the cable right by the starter, it catched the transmission and fired up.
What I want to do now is replace that cable, I assume its going into the solenoid, my question is do I have to remove the starter unit, it's kind of hard to get around there so not sure if the exhaust line needs to come off to. Also is the end of cable unit a snap on attachment or some of from of tightening with a bolt? your thoughts / input appreciated.
That sounds so wrong from every way. After hearing that tidbit I wouldn't waste any time getting under the car and checking out that starter. You can use ramps, or lift it and put wooden blocks under the frame rails but whatever you do, first make sure it is lifted and is safe to go under. Disconnect your battery too.
I would suspect that the starter may have loose wire connections, or there may be a broken/cracked wire. Pull the starter and have a good look at it. That will also give you the opportunity to pull, inspect and/or replace the power feed and ground wires. IF you need a new starter (which I doubt) it's pretty cheap at rock auto (49.00 after a 10.00 core return). You're probably going to find the connections loose and covered in grease/crap. Clean them up real good-and spray them with some electrical contact cleaner to be sure. Reinstall and test fire it. (remember the batt connect) . LMK what you find. If the starter is weak, you can rebuild it yourself and put in new brushes and a new bearing without too much fuss and bother. Bing! just like new.
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Joined: Jun 2011
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nj,
That sounds so wrong from every way. After hearing that tidbit I wouldn't waste any time getting under the car and checking out that starter. You can use ramps, or lift it and put wooden blocks under the frame rails but whatever you do, first make sure it is lifted and is safe to go under. Disconnect your battery too.
I would suspect that the starter may have loose wire connections, or there may be a broken/cracked wire. Pull the starter and have a good look at it. That will also give you the opportunity to pull, inspect and/or replace the power feed and ground wires. IF you need a new starter (which I doubt) it's pretty cheap at rock auto (49.00 after a 10.00 core return). You're probably going to find the connections loose and covered in grease/crap. Clean them up real good-and spray them with some electrical contact cleaner to be sure. Reinstall and test fire it. (remember the batt connect) . LMK what you find. If the starter is weak, you can rebuild it yourself and put in new brushes and a new bearing without too much fuss and bother. Bing! just like new.
That sounds so wrong from every way. After hearing that tidbit I wouldn't waste any time getting under the car and checking out that starter. You can use ramps, or lift it and put wooden blocks under the frame rails but whatever you do, first make sure it is lifted and is safe to go under. Disconnect your battery too.
I would suspect that the starter may have loose wire connections, or there may be a broken/cracked wire. Pull the starter and have a good look at it. That will also give you the opportunity to pull, inspect and/or replace the power feed and ground wires. IF you need a new starter (which I doubt) it's pretty cheap at rock auto (49.00 after a 10.00 core return). You're probably going to find the connections loose and covered in grease/crap. Clean them up real good-and spray them with some electrical contact cleaner to be sure. Reinstall and test fire it. (remember the batt connect) . LMK what you find. If the starter is weak, you can rebuild it yourself and put in new brushes and a new bearing without too much fuss and bother. Bing! just like new.
I took the starter down and here are the pics.. as you mentioned, all safety precautions were taken wth stands and I actually placed a log just in case stands fail.
as you can see, there is not nut fastening the cable?? IM gonna go out on a limb but im thinking there should be one! also, any suggestions prior to re-install, there's alot of black tape and not sure if the other 2 wires are affixed as well.
thanks
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
hi Allan,
I took the starter down and here are the pics.. as you mentioned, all safety precautions were taken wth stands and I actually placed a log just in case stands fail.
as you can see, there is not nut fastening the cable??IM gonna go out on a limb but im thinking there should be one!
also, any suggestions prior to re-install, there's alot of black tape and not sure if the other 2 wires are affixed as well.
thanks
I took the starter down and here are the pics.. as you mentioned, all safety precautions were taken wth stands and I actually placed a log just in case stands fail.
as you can see, there is not nut fastening the cable??IM gonna go out on a limb but im thinking there should be one!
Don't need to go out on a limb, it's obviously missing. I'd bet a dollar that's most of your problem right there. Obviously someone didn't put one on, or started to and got distracted. The big wire is your power feed so if it's not tight it would be the same as having a loose battery connection. Jiggle it, it works, then it vibrates loose again.
Clean up the metal stud and install a new nut. Treat the finished connection with copper coat or no corrode to prevent contamination. Under the car gets a lot of crap thrown at it. Both of those products are impervious to temperature and weather.
Clean up the metal stud and install a new nut. Treat the finished connection with copper coat or no corrode to prevent contamination. Under the car gets a lot of crap thrown at it. Both of those products are impervious to temperature and weather.
I would unwrap those wires to see what's being hidden by the tape. It may be nothing, on the other hand it could be wrapped because some ding dong cut off the wire casing leaving bare wire. If that's the case, I'd put some shrink wrap on it instead of just taping it back up. Ultimately, the best fix is to replace the wires that need it
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 752
I was able to install the starter back, there was a radiator type hose around the wires where the cables are attached to the solenoid, so I removed that and fixed one of the wires that was barely hanging on.. I had to install and re - install a few times because I was not sure where the battery cable would be placed since the exhaust headers were a concern, not sure if the cables get hot it would burn the wires? I was able to arrange a opening that looks clear... I had a small incident where I thought I had the start semi way bolted but it got loose and came down on my head, so I have a nice bump on my forehead, lol.... do you use the jack to lift the starter while getting the bolts in place? once I got it installed, it cranked after I reattached the battery... so project done and yes, the bungee cord will be used for other purposes..
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Good job nj
I was wondering what that hose was that was wrapped around those wires. Probably the POs attempt at shielding the wires. Glad you made the necessary adjustments and fixed the problem wire. Re routing to avoid heat was a good thing to do. If you need to re-visit the area for any reason, you can also wrap the wire with aluminum tape (same kind as used to seal furnace ducts - NOTE: this is NOT the flimsy cloth duct tape - it is actually a metal tape). GM did that to shield some sensors on the 3800 engines. So if it was good for that, it will be good for the wires too.
Sorry to hear it fell on your noggin during the install.
You don't use a jack to reinstall. It's done just like you did it. You need some strength to hold it up while you start the bolts. Or you can get a buddy to hold it. Just that sometimes the space gets a little cramped under the car with 2 people
Glad to hear the car is good now. On to more projects I guess? Use the bungee cord to tow chicks on roller blades?
I was wondering what that hose was that was wrapped around those wires. Probably the POs attempt at shielding the wires. Glad you made the necessary adjustments and fixed the problem wire. Re routing to avoid heat was a good thing to do. If you need to re-visit the area for any reason, you can also wrap the wire with aluminum tape (same kind as used to seal furnace ducts - NOTE: this is NOT the flimsy cloth duct tape - it is actually a metal tape). GM did that to shield some sensors on the 3800 engines. So if it was good for that, it will be good for the wires too.
Sorry to hear it fell on your noggin during the install.
You don't use a jack to reinstall. It's done just like you did it. You need some strength to hold it up while you start the bolts. Or you can get a buddy to hold it. Just that sometimes the space gets a little cramped under the car with 2 peopleGlad to hear the car is good now. On to more projects I guess? Use the bungee cord to tow chicks on roller blades?
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 601
You're certainly not going to get any grief from me about Auto Zone products, as it's a top notch place. My late model Corvette has a Duralast gold battery in it. My Olds, an Advance auto gold battery. These places are around for a reason.
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 15,116
From: southeastern Michigan
This is like saying that you support the local merchants because you went to the local Walmart or the local McDonalds.
Pepboys is a national chain. You certainly supported the local tax base and any local people who work in the store. But it's certainly not local in the sense that most people use the word in situations like this. The stores are owned by the central corporation which is based in Philadelphia.
Pepboys is a national chain. You certainly supported the local tax base and any local people who work in the store. But it's certainly not local in the sense that most people use the word in situations like this. The stores are owned by the central corporation which is based in Philadelphia.
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