I am a working man. Moving to south Texas after new year. cost are crazy!

Money is going into the engine and other car upgrades. I will be fine with the mobile single post. People have been using for years. I am always careful,

Miss my buddies pit in WV. , kinded like the ones at jiffy lube. But old school.

 

Looks like you can do everything but transmission work on it.

 

as i said earlier in this thread i grew up in my dads shop with 7 globe in floor single post hoists and transmissions were no problem,what was a little bit of a problem was the 4 wheel drive pickups,on those we usually pulled the transfer case and set it on the hoist above the post.those old np205 transfer cases were heavy and a pain to take off the trans jack

 

Looks like those old, in ground lifts come with the chevymotor virus.

I'm not a fan of lifts in general; I'm too tall. 2 post can be a pain centering the car, and the correct spot front to back is right where you open the door the least.. 4 posts are a pain to do wheel work, but give you a nice tool shelf. I have noticed that getting up and down off the floor is getting harder. Once you're down, you can't fall, though.

 

I have been working under lifts since I was 17 years old and that's been awhile. There are pros and cons and limitations with each style of course. It really depends on your requirements for the lift and what your space and financial constraints are as well. I chose a twin post for a number of reasons based on the work I do in my shop and what can be done easily on this type of lift. I would caution...even though you can do something on one type of lift or another doesn't mean that's the safest or best way to do it. I have seen far too many cars and trucks fall off lifts in my 35 years working on cars. It's not pretty and can be very dangerous.

Sure, there are times when the tall jack stands are necessary and helpful but they can also get in the way as well depending on the work being done. I just helped a friend swap out his trans and clutch on a 1-ton dually crew cab Dodge long bed truck. It was nice to have the extra tall-extra wide twin post lift where we could both easily stand under the truck when it was elevated. I'm nearly 6'5 so it's important to me to be comfortable under the vehicle. The lift I have does allow you to open the doors a good bit when it's positioned properly on the lift. I added a huge mirror in the front of my lift bay so that I can pull the vehicle in straight and get it centered on the first try. It was a trick we used at the dealership when pits were still the thing. Lol You can see it in the pics attached,

There are those that still desire to do work on the ground and to that I say----to each their own. If you don't have the ceiling height then I would look at all alternatives. If you do have space---the versatility of a twin post electric lift is pretty hard to beat for the cost IMHO.....

From what I see in the pics of that Cutlass on the single arm lift....I would definitely not be comfortable no matter how well it's designed even if I added jack stands. The margin for error is high and a simple slip or event when you are working on the car could be disastrous or deadly. Each person still has to be smart when all types of these lifts are used. Carelessness or complacency can and will get you killed!

 

6' 4" here, and most lifts are too short. It puts me in an awkward crouch. Another disadvantage to lifts: when you drop a wrench, you have to bend over to pick it up off the floor.

 

Mohawk makes s single-post lift, and it it made in USA.

 

From everything I can find, it does appear it is made in China.

https://www.garageequipment.co.uk/bl...r-Lift-Factory

That said, it does carry a darn good warranty and appears to be well made. If I was going this route, I would want the permanently attached unit (SL-6), not the portable.

I would also note that Mohawk made a single-post lift, right chere in the good ol' USA. I do not know if they are still being made. I do know trying to find one used is all but impossible.more.

 

The problem I see with the single post lifts is you'd better be perfectly level when you start lifting. If the unit itself is even slightly off level, things get top heavy very quickly.

I love my two post Rotary 9000 lb. You set the car on it, pick it up off the ground slightly, and rock it as violently as you can to see if you can shake it free. It goes up dead straight and is just as stable 6" in the air as it is 6' in the air.

You can't imagine all the things that can go wrong when you start removing or adding weight to a car that's on a lift. My 87 Mustang with no interior, motor. or tranny is only about 200 lbs nose heavy when you pick it at the intended pick points. I almost found out the hard way before strapping it to the front picking arms

 

Those are helpful pictures as I am picking a lift and trying to decide garage height. My house is short, and, although I could probably get a variance as I am one of the few single story ones in my subdivision, the code wants the garage to be shorter than the primary structure.

Pardon the rough autocad, but an 18' tall roof centerline with cathedral trusses (and parallel chord is also an option), on a 30' wide building would get me a 12' wide by 12' high space on the centerline, which can accommodate most car lifts. It would also help to put the uprights in between trusses front to back. Walls 10'. I forgot to add some dimensions to the sketch. Roof pitch 6/12. The house's chimney is 18.5' tall.

 

Thanks Guys If I had the room for a two post I would. But cannot and get two cars in. I am a very careful guy. People have died with a car, foot and half up. Just me working on the car. 4 tall jacks, is a must in my eyes.

 

My ceiling is 12'. The Rotary SP0A9 can be set up at 11'-6" & 12' I highly recommend 12'. I'm 6-'1" and the 6" makes a huge difference. When I bought the lift it was set up for 11'-6". I hit my head a lot.

You need 11'-6" width for it

I don't have any pics of it all the way up but you get the idea:

 

Excellent. I am 6'4". I bang my head on everything in the chassis department, but I have hardhats. I may get that model there. I need to pick up 3 @1970 A bodies, and an Econoline of the same vintage, as well as a 98 2 door Tahoe and a 2 door modern Tacoma. I think it could handle all.

Thank you.

 

I have two styles currently a nice floor cable lift and a Scissor lift

I have a 10’ ceiling and it works perfect for my needs
picked it up used and had it inspected and Installed by the professionally for 1600 out the door

picked up the scissor hoist used for 300 best investment it moves around and works well for all 4 corners and general maintenance

 

I've been looking at Wildfire XLT 4-post lifts, with bridge jack that allows one or both ends to be lifted from the ramps for tire/wheel work. When not in use for mechanical work, it would be used for vehicle storage so I could finally make use of all the bays in my garage, and my truck could come in out of the cold. The lifts can be moved around on casters, even after assembly.

 

First and only American made single post car lift designed for storing two vehicles in the parking space of one. Not made to working on a car, But will be reaching out to them this week. See if they have something coming up. To fit my needs.
Not portable, but tight to the wall.

https://aclifts.com/lifts/m-1-single-post-car-lift/

 

This is the route I went. I got this lift when I moved into my home. My ceiling is 9'11" which is barely high enough to park both of my summer toys on it ('68 Cutlass & '98 T/A), which happen to be the same height within an inch. The adjustable lock ladders of this lift allowed me to set a stop at the exact center so either car can be parked under the other (they also can compensate for an uneven floor). It came with the jack tray, drip trays and caster kit, I also purchased the sliding hydraulic jack accessory which allows either end to be jacked up off the platform for axle / wheel work. The jack tray can also be used for a small floor jack to get both axles off the platform if necessary. I've swapped my Old's transmission and the T/A's rear axle on this lift with no problems. I paid ~$2000 back in '08, including the sliding jack. Rented a U-Haul truck to bring it up from Indy.

 

I love my 2 post lift. I'm 6'2" and in my 70s. I wear a welder cap with a Wilson "Old School" catcher's cap over it. Plus I move slowly, headache's eliminated. I wear an LED headband light, love it. I have magnetic reach extenders plus I carry a small pocket magnet. I have a couple 1960's high barstool fiberglass chairs ( light plus easily moveable) usually I can sit while working on something. I have trans/rearend jack that I can use even if the vehicle is at full height. I have lifting devices in every bay/garage because I believe there's only so much tread on a tire so I'm saving my back/knees and hips. Start early and save your body. Jmo.

 

Crawling under car since I was 15. 50 years later, having hard time getting off of the floor. Thank God. My girl help her dad, handing him tools. She knows what is what. And hands them to me under the car. She getting too old for it also. She glad I am buying the lift. The Nascar block, Batten heads on the other hand, are not going over verywell. She call my Cutlass my wife. And questions why I need so many 85 Cadillacs.

Ceiling height is 10'-4, like I said before. I am 5'-6. So I am good to go. This is the first time i will be able to work standing up. Going to cut half the back of my old office chair..Have roll cart.

 

Correct. No problem pulling a trans on a single post in ground lift. I had actually had to pull the trans out of my wagon this summer and have pulled the trans out of my 66 chevelle convertible a few times over the years. 2 post lifts are great for mechanical work and especially nice for pulling bodies off of frames. I can't tell you how many cars I have pulled the bodies off of with this lift (yes there is a pit under it as well):

The only issue is if you plan to do a lot of body/ paint work, 2 post lifts are a pain to work around. For those considering any bolt down lift, another really important point to consider is the thickness of your concrete. If it is too thin, you will need to cut out and re-pour patches under the mounting locations.

With thought given to the most important tool thread started last night, a good lift would rank right near the top for me. Add to that a good mig welder and air compressor as well.

 

Not to change the direction of the thread but if parking under the lift is not needed, then you could look at something like what I have.
I had a 10 foot ceiling, and ordered a bendpak 6lp. I could put our 55 truck, 70 442 and 64 cutlass all in the full up poisition without hitting a 10 foot ceiling. You can get a flush mount unit if you want to do the concrete work. I did not. It raises to 46" and is open in the middle. Sometimes the platforms are hard to reach around, usually not. I have a rolling seat and just work like that.
It also doesn't need super deep concrete like a two post. I drive right over it to park all the time. It is hard to push a non running car onto it, but i have a winch on the floor after tweaking my back trying it on my 70 442.

Maybe it doesnt meet your needs maybe it does. Also when we moved I unbolted it and moved it and reinstalled by myself
https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/mi...lifts/mds-6lp/

EDIT: no way to use my lift to remove a body from a frame...

 

I have plenty of framework. between the front and rear jack points. Bendpak 6lp would be a problem.

 

that really is it’s shortcoming.