I've heard about this seafoam stuff, and thought about treating my 394 with the stuff. I watched a few vids on how to use the stuff: 1/3 in oil, 1/3 in gas. then turn on and add remaining to carb, run for 5 min, shut off for 20 min, then drive until smoke goes away and change oil right?



I noticed a few plugs a lot dirtier than rest also have ping on acceleration, which I do not think is timing/gas/spark related. I run premium gas+booster, dwell at 30 degrees and timing at 5 degrees, new points/cap/rotor/wires. the dwell does jump maybe 1.5 degrees when I hit the throttle, but its supposed to advance like that right?

My questions are:

is seafoam good stuff? if not whats an alternative, like CRC motor treat?

will it help the spark knock which is probably in the dirty cylinders?

does my dwell jump to high (30-31.5)?

 

Seafoam is good stuff. It will not affect your dwell, it's probably jumping due the points being just a tad sensitive on the adjustment, 30 - 31.5 is fine. I would not pour 1/3 of a can of it down the carb with the engine not running as you may hydrolock a cylinder. Has the timing chain been changed, and is the timing steady or does it move around?

 

What are you trying to accomplish with it??

 

Wow!! I just posted as JP did. Follow his lead.

 

I believe sea foam is good stuff. It has been around a long time.

If you have spark knock do to excess carbon, then it should help and you will notice it. Give it a few miles or a little time.

You might have something else going on here. Lets rule that out too. Not running really old fuel are you? Its pretty fresh right?

 

I know to add to the carb while running, and I also know the additive wont change my dwell, my questions are:

A. I believe 2 cylinders are caked with carbon and may be causing the spark knock, someone on here said this is possible. is this possible and is seafoam really effective at fixing this phenomenon?

B. The napa better-brand points have less than 2000 miles on them. I set dwell to 30, and I jumps to around 31.5 when I hit the throttle. Is this normal?

p.s.: the fuel is always fresh, premium 92 with turbo 104 octane boost, and 4 oz marvel mystery oil, the timing is 5 degrees and the dwell is set to 30 )but jumps a degree when revved). and thank you don71, that answers one part. I changed cap, rotor, wires, and plugs less than 5000 miles ago, points even less mileage. what else could I be?

 

If this motor is old and has set a few years, I would expect to have to do this procedure a couple of times. You gotta get some time and heat in there.

Probably a tank of gas....worth of time.

 

I see we have posted within minutes of each other.

Then, lets go with the distributer issues. Anything gummed up there? Everything working Ok?

Don't hesitate to give us any more info. Whats the vacuum like? Any blowby?

Sorry I haven't searched your earlier posts and details.

 

so say maybe 2 bottles of the liquid stuff, do the 1/3 method, run my half tank almost empty. then repeat process and the 2nd time fill half tank, if results aren't apparent and do 1/2 gas and 1/2 carb while running (don't want too much in oil), sound about right?

i changed vacuum advance and everything works nicely. the only mechanical thing that bugs me is the dwell jumping a bit, new expensive napa points look clean, not much mileage, and I lubed cam nicely. is 1.5 degrees (30-31.5) a lot of drift?

 

The setting on some points is touchy sometimes and it's possible for them to climb a tiny bit. You can crank the adjustment back a hair and it may stay on 30. Like Don asked is this an engine that has sat a while? Man, you are adding way to much stuff to your fuel at one time.

 

I ve though of tinkering with lower dwells to compensate like you say oldscut. and no this engine almost never sits longer than a week. (for the 2 years ive owned it atleast, last guy went on long trips then let it sit I think)

but I am gonna tone it down with the additives, just experimenting sort of at the moment. im gonna run what I got with some seafoam, then a full tank of just plain prem 92 next time around. maybe repeat seafoam process if I feel its helping but the problem persists.

so definately run seafoam it will most likely help my situation, seafoam is a good brand, and 1.5 degrees isn't an excessive jump in dwell, is this all correct? (will also tinker with 29 dwell, see where it jumps to, re-time to factory setting, and test drive after seafoam experiment and see where I end up)

 

Even with a octane booster my old 63 Holiday would ping under hard acceleration. I think most of the problem is that they come with 10 1/2 to 1 compression and the crap gas we have now just can't handle that high of compression. Have you tried any hi octane race gas just for a test.... Tedd

 

No, dwell can be 28-32, but 30 is optimal. It may take a few treatments of seafoam to clean it up. I would not add a bunch to the oil with a flat tappet cam. The Lucas fuel treatment is also very good.

 

ok, so I will do seafoam tests, do not overdo oil. will tinker with lower dwells and re-time to factory after seafoam test, should be fine. thanks for all the answers from all!

no tedd, I haven't tried racetrack type gas, figured there were other alternatives, have you had better results with the expensive good stuff? but these old high compressions are doomed to slight pinging is the vibe im getting. I guess you may have a point there.

 

One of the things I would try would be a Pertronix conversion and a high output coil. You will get a better and hotter spark which should help. Now I know some of you guys are coming after me and that is okay. This is just one of the things I would do.

 

I actually did that to the 194 6cyl in my 63 nova (was probably unnecessary). would be same on this car right: swap plate/coil, gap with included wedge, time to normal spec right? will the dwell reading be the same?

(However, fidgety as they may be, I don't mind my old fashioned points, I drive a 63 to because its old fashioned. however in this case if I cant get it to stop by the end of the summer an update like that and some high quality fuel might just be whats needed to get the full experience outta this high compression, save its life maybe even)

 

Also double check that your timing is advancing properly as the Rpms increase.

 

like as in take off vacuum hose, shine timing light, rev engine and the timing mark should advance up slowly as rpm increase right?

 

If you think you have excess carbon in two cylinders try this first. Get a spray bottle of water. Go for a short drive and get engine fully up to normal operating temp. Park where you won't mind a couple of dark spots on the ground from the tail pipes. Pop open the hood and take the air cleaner off. With engine running speed the engine up a little by hand and start spraying the water in the carb. Spray it as fast as you can until you actually feel it starting to effect how the engine is running than back off a wee bit. Do this for a couple minutes. What your doing is literally steam cleaning the combustion chambers. I've revived may a motors fine tune with this method I learned from my Dad. You need to keep the rpm up around 2000 while your doing this procedure.

 

Variable dwell may indicate a worn upper bearing/ shaft. 1.5 degrees of variation is not that bad, it's only giving you about that much timing variation.

If you wish to replace the upper bushing and shaft as need be, I have done some of those recently and can provide details. I made a couple of special tools out of hardware store fittings to help guide the 12.5mm reamer used to ensure that the new bushings are perfect. You will need normal shop facilities- cutting tools, disk sander, drills, a vice.

 

I finally gave up on the booster thing and just ran the highest octane I could find and backed off the throttle when I felt or heard it ping.There was a huge difference in gas quality at that time and some brands wanted to ping almost at idle.I could tell within a mile of the station if the gas was good or bad.....Tedd

 

well the water spray method seems logical enough, and a lot cheaper, but I just don't think I like spraying a bunch of water into the carb. I think ill just try a little seafoam in the gas/oil/carb once, and drive it for a while really just flush it with full tank of plain 92 gas, then take out the plugs and see if the seafoam cleaned it all out atleast a little bit (probably clean up the plugs and put em back, they have less than 6000 on em).

as for my dwell issue, ill just try to compensate for now, idk if I wanna take the distributor all apart its so old, as long as its not out of control. im not exactly a machine shop either, although im sure its simple right.

ill just try to set the dwell to 29, and maybe time it just shy of the 5 degree center mark. I still debate the pertronix kit, im not really sure how to adjust it, I remember it being tricky last time I did it. or maybe its as simple as gap and time it.

 

and Tedd, you try running that super expensive 110 octane Sunocos at racetracks offer? I hear its expensive but its like jet fuel, far better grade than normal stuff. ive never really tried it, but im not exactly doing the quarter mile at Englishtown with my four door sedan, and like you say I try to back off of it when I do hear it I do care about the car a good deal

 

I remember reading about this in an old Hot Rod magazine my dad had, I never tried it but I would take your advice on this one !!! Great post .

 

well I really don't mind getting the cleaner, even if its 10-12 bucks, its designed to enter the vehicles systems. so I think im gonna go to wal mart and get a can of this stuff and try it. then afterward take it for a nice longgg ride. the streets are still a little messy here so taking it for a ride may not be as fun but its gonna be nice tomorrow so I could wash er up wit the powerwasher tomorrow, get the undercarriage real nice.

But the water bottle trick has been around for a while im sure eh. you guys are saying this is tried and true and isn't bad for the carb?

 

And GM Top Engine Cleaner is fun too, and smokes out the neighbors as well.

 

The water won't hurt a thing. Your engine has digested lots and lots of moisture over the years in the form of humidity. This just ups the humidity to very high levels. So long as you have the engine to full operating temp the water turns to steam as soon as it enters the combustion chamber. It's 100% safe. I would never recommend something I wouldn't do myself.

 

I posted a thread titled "The water decoke trick" on October 13th last year. Sorry but I don't know how to make a link.
There are some reasoned opinions and theories about this method to be found on it.
I have used this method successfully on several occasions and it works to some extent, it isn't an engine rebuild from your faucet though.


One thing Seafoam (or any similar additives) won't do is substitute for proper care and maintenance. No doubt it has plenty of merit as a supplement of caring for your car, but getting under the hood and checking and renewing your car as required is still necessary. I dare say plenty of us positively relish doing just that.


Roger.

 

well I already have a can of seafoam, im gonna go to the parking lot at my shop to I don't smoke out the block. my next question is:

A. should the oil be changed after this, its actually very new oil? does it get all nasty and carboned up after?

B. is this stuff okay to mix with the marvel mystery oil in my oil and fuel?

 

I can remember using automatic trans fluid and pouring it in the carb with the engine running. It will smoke up the neighborhood and there won't be a mosquito for a mile. You probably only need about a pint. You will have to keep your hand on the throttle since it will tend to choke down. Then take it out and drive the heck out of it.

 

I use Berrymans B12, it works great and will clean the carb and combustion chambers. I tried the seafoam but dont care for it and its more expensive. Ive been using Berrymans for 40 years...... good stuff!

 

Berrymans is a really good product. I haven't used it for 40 years but it has been a long time.

 

I used Seafoam on my 1995 Regency Elite (at 227K miles). Made no difference at all and didn't smoke at all. The engine was still a strong performer but I thought I'd try this stuff instead of having to take the TB off and clean it. That's what I ended up doing anyway and it was still ugly filthy with carbon. I wonder where the seafoam went or what it did??? Maybe that's why I ended up having to replace the intake manifold gasket....

 

The water poured down the carb is actually an old Cadillac service item for carboned up Cadi engines. It's a tried and true method. Basically we poured 16oz of water down the carb slowly with the idle set to 2000 rpm.

 

but now im looking into berrymans b12 chemtool stuff, except I think this stuff you pour the whole thing in the carb while running right? I saw a vid where a guy used his vacuum hose sucked the whole can through a hose it came with in a kit. he also swore it was way better than seafoam. would you guys agree?

 

Seafoam is a gas stabilizer created back in the 50's for boats, it is an excellent fuel stabilizer, I believe the rest of the stuff you read are just ways to try and get people to buy another mechanic in a can product, to break up carbon in a cylinder I've use water in a spray bottle (like you would mist plants with) and mist it into the engine while running, this does work.