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I just found out my 350 rocket has some block damage . I'd noticed a missing starter bolt while doing other work underneath. The shop I took it too found the area where bolt screws into engine block was busted off , and it's been damaged quite awhile from looks. He said only coreect fix would be to replace the block.
My 71 isn't anything special , just a good driver and fun car. I was looking at rock auto and they sell a complete " long block " without smog holes . My buddy is willing to help swap things over during the off season.
I'm only wondering peollespeoples opinions about going this route , I dont have a major budget to work with so having much of the machining work done is a plus
If you just need something to get you on the road, then it's probably fine. I'm surprised they even list one. This will be something churned out by a large remanufacturing shop. They do large lots, very quickly, so attention to detail is usually lacking. And since it's an Olds, it's probably been sitting in a corner for 20+ years.
As with anything, just give it a good QA check. Make sure the clearances are good.
Concur with oddball's comments. If it's a driver, and you don't abuse it, it'll probably be ok for a few years. My bet is the guides have been knurled and not replaced, and I wouldn't be surprised if they use the wrong umbrella seals on the valves. A lot of mass rebuilders make that mistake. Don't worry, you'll find out rather soon if they did.
At least you should end up with a block that's better than what you got. Good luck.
Jeff,
If all that is wrong with your engine is the starter hole then it should be fixable. I am saying that without having it in front of me to look at.
I don't know if I would by an engine from someplace like Rock auto or not. See if they can tell you who the actual reman company is. Also, your block might not be accepted as far as the core charge goes so keep that in mind when you are budgeting for the job.
Obviously RA doesn't rebuild engines, so the question is, who is their supplier for these. I've had ATK engines that were fine for a driver. I've never heard of "Famous Brand" engines. The good news is that it claims to be an early 350 block casting. The bad news is I have no idea what this means:
Head Cast # 1929, 9147, 859, 742, 394
Expect them to be #8 heads (yeah, the photo shows 7A heads if you zoom in on it - don't hold your breath).
Production-line rebuilt engines are a train-wreck. If they're happening to someone else, they're fascinating to watch.
1. What is the warranty? Demand the actual printed-out terms. Does the engine have to be installed by a "professional"?
2. Who pays for R&R, and shipping back to the factory for a faulty engine?
3. If they authorize local repair, how much per hour "labor rate" do they pay? Is their rate realistic in your area? (If they pay $50 per hour, but the shop you have doing the work charges $90 per hour, YOU are going to get stuck paying the $40/hr difference!)
4. Do they pay for fluids and filters when repair work is needed? You fail a camshaft, for example, are you stuck buying new oil and filter, new coolant, etc?
5. Who pays for the time spent on "hold" while getting approval for needed work? Does the shop get reimbursed directly, or do you have to pay up-front, and then wait for the rebuilder to compensate you?
Production-line rebuilt engines are a train-wreck. If they're happening to someone else, they're fascinating to watch.
1. What is the warranty? Demand the actual printed-out terms. Does the engine have to be installed by a "professional"?
2. Who pays for R&R, and shipping back to the factory for a faulty engine?
3. If they authorize local repair, how much per hour "labor rate" do they pay? Is their rate realistic in your area? (If they pay $50 per hour, but the shop you have doing the work charges $90 per hour, YOU are going to get stuck paying the $40/hr difference!)
4. Do they pay for fluids and filters when repair work is needed? You fail a camshaft, for example, are you stuck buying new oil and filter, new coolant, etc?
5. Who pays for the time spent on "hold" while getting approval for needed work? Does the shop get reimbursed directly, or do you have to pay up-front, and then wait for the rebuilder to compensate you?
These are all very good points to consider. If youre going to go this route you are better off finding a local rebuilder and discussiong your needs with them. Every major city has engine rebuilders, shop around, do internet searches to find customer feedback.
According to his original post, the corner of the block where the starter mounts is broken off, not just a stripped hole
That is the repair i am talking about is a busted out hole. My engine was repaired and I drag raced with that engine for years no problem. Motor is in shop for cam bearings and block clean for a refresh build after ten years of racing.
It can be possibly repaired, but it will take an experienced welder. My engine had that happen and a friend who is a great welder built it back up and we redrilled and tapped the hole. That was 5 years ago.
It can be possibly repaired, but it will take an experienced welder. My engine had that happen and a friend who is a great welder built it back up and we redrilled and tapped the hole. That was 5 years ago.
Eric there is no doubt in my mind that his engine can be fixed on this guy's block for the starter hole. I posted my repair here before. I can't help it that my engine is in the shop or i would repost that picture.
Thanks for everyone input , sorry I didnt share the photo the shop sent me . Heres the area where the break occurred.
I'm gonna speak with the engine shop that did my valve job 2 yrs ago and see what his suggestions would be for repairing the break
thanks again fellas , I'll keep ya posted
Thanks for everyone input , sorry I didnt share the photo the shop sent me . Heres the area where the break occurred.
I'm gonna speak with the engine shop that did my valve job 2 yrs ago and see what his suggestions would be for repairing the break
thanks again fellas , I'll keep ya posted
I will make a special trip to machine shop to take a picture. I will post it in this thread. It is a doubler with a nut. Welder used a mig welder. Area was very clean before he welded.
I will make a special trip to machine shop to take a picture. I will post it in this thread. It is a doubler with a nut. Welder used a mig welder. Area was very clean before he welded.
thanks ! I'm going over to an engine shop tomorrow and speak to them about possible repairs . I'm sure hes fixed areas like this before
I hope this helps. Engine has see street miles a over a thousand passes at the drag strip. The engine ran 12.50 .The good part about this repair is it you strip out the threads you can cut it off and do it again the same way.