Help! How do you replace the fuel line on a 67 cutlass. I have the metal fuel that goes from tank to pump line but it is all kind of bent and twisted two fit. Any tricks to this impossible looking task?

 

When I replaced mine on my 70 the body was off the frame. I think you will probably have to pull the rear end and unbolt the body bushings from the frame. Then try to lift the body enough to run the fuel lines. Somebody else has probably tried this before hopefully they will chime in.

 

On my 66 which is the same as your 67 there are only two spots that could pose a problem. By the tank where it goes on top of the frame over the wheel arch and up front where it enters the frame and comes out through the engine cross member. Is yours all one piece? The reason I ask is I've seen some come in two pieces with a break right before it enters the frame up front.
I think your only option if you have one continuous line is to raise the body off the frame and feed it in that way. If not you'll have to clear the rear cross member in front of the axle and then somehow push it to the rear far enough so that you can feed the front part into the frame up front. That almost seems impossible to me without running the risk of kinking or damaging the line.
For the front piece I would use a electricians snake to help feed it through. Just cover the ends well so no contaminants get in the line. You could also make it into two pieces by using a splice with a compression fitting and ferrule type arrangement.
With the boxed frame on your convertible the line is pretty accessible because it's outside the frame for the most part except for up front.

 

I successfully changed the fuel lines on my '68. With the car on a lift, we loosened the frame-to-body bolts and used a transmission jack up against the fuel tank (with a sturdy piece of plywood between the jack and the tank) to lift the rear of the body ever so slightly. It was enough to get to the bracket bolt that holds the fuel lines to the frame in the rear passenger hump, remove the old fuel lines, and then insert the new fuel lines through the passenger side rear wheel opening between the frame and the body. A little gentle bending had to be done (but new fuel lines come bent in a package anyway) but the whole job went off without a hitch. I really didn't want to cut the fuel lines into separate pieces if I didn't have to, and this method allowed us to install the new fuel lines intact.


Randy C.

 

Hey:
I just did the same job on my 66 Cutlass, we are doing a major resto w/ the body off the frame and I installed all new lines from Inline Tube. It took over an hour just for the fuel line, small amounts of tweaking and slight bending, but it finally slid in place and looks great. Just be patient, if it close to the OEM bends it will fit eventually. Good Luck!
Thanks Ron

 

Recently did it on a full body resto AFTER THE FACT. Took me all of 10 mins. after disconnecting the back body mounts on the pass side and existing fuel line hose. Just remove the pass side rear wheel after jacking the car up enough to sneak the line through the wheel well area. It was a lot easier than I though.

Like I said, I was sweating it out because the car was just painted so I kept checking the door/fender/hood gaps while jacking it up enough to sneak it in.

Good luck with everything, you'll be fine.

 

No need to take the rear end out

If the body bolts are not rusted, no problem. Otherwise, a bit of a nightmare to fix that.

Frame will flex a LOT if not bolted to the body, so snaking the line in thru RH rear wheel area should work. Lift body or drop frame to gain access as required. Yes, some bending of the line will take place, but it'll rebend to suit after it's in place.

 

Cut the lines at the beginning of the quarter. Use good fuel line and pinch clamps. Purchase the lines from the Right Stuff Detailing and all will be good.