PGH Cutlass

Hello everybody I have a 350(for now)that ima put a intake,4barrel Carb and headers on.I also have a 455 that ima rebuild an add performance parts too an swap.my question is what would you guy do too the rear end on a 1k parts budget.Im not a DIY mechanic kinda guy but these site has helped a lot an I'd like to know what I'm talking about when I talk to a mechanic.thanks

DeltaPace77

What exactly are you really asking, as rear end work can get pretty expensive. Usually relate's to ring gear size. Basic on a weak motored car would probably be a 7-1/2". Next step would be 8-1/2", which are actually quite strong, and the minimum needed running a 455. A 8-3/4" 12 bolt cover is better still, if you can find one. Then you're going something like a 9" Currie(Ford), and the price really starts climbing here, well as the assembly weight. Thinkin' a well set up 8-1/2" 3.42 posi set up for what you're doing. It's what Im doing on street rubber(actually 3.73). But if beating the crap out of it on the strip with slicks, would surely go Currie 9".

PGH Cutlass

thanks for the reply you told me exactly what a needed to know.can anyone tell me what kind this is,i can take more pics.thanks

DeltaPace77

From the illustrations in my 77' factory service manual, looks like an 8-1/2" open(non posi) axle to me. No idea of the ring/pinion ratio though. If you get under the car with a wire brush, there's usually an i.d. code stamped into right side axle tube. You can come pretty close, by rotatating a wheel with the car off the ground in neutral, and count the drive shaft revolutions. If non posi(which think yours is), you may need another person turning the other tire with you. If posi, there's usually a silver lube tag on the cover lower bolt. Plus both wheels will be locked together when in the air. If going 455, you're really wanting posi. You dont need a whole new rear end, as mine has the 3.73 posi guts in it from a recycle yard. This isn't exactly drop in, as some ring/pinion fitting, measurements are needed.

507OLDS

The rear under your car is an 8.5" 10-bolt.That rear will handle plenty of power,and does not need to be changed.I would have it rebuilt with new bearings & seals,install a posi unit,and a better gear ratio for your application,depending on what your goals & expectations are with the car.I can do the work,or point you in the right direction.I'm just up north,in Erie.

DeltaPace77

Forgot to mention about the diff carrier main roller bearings, as probably pitted. Mine were, and a real PIA to pull off. If "507's" willing to hire out for the job, I'd take him up on it, as the work he mentiond is maybe $800 bucks at a shop. From the looks of his car in the pic, he obviously knows what he's doing. Id get hold of a repair manual, if dont already. I have the actual factory sevice manual for mine, and gotta be over 1000 pages. You could assemble an entire car from scratch with this thing.

507OLDS

We could do it two different ways:
Take the rear out,and I do that one,or I build one of my cores,and swap it with yours,leaving me with yours as a core for the future.You are close enough,that we can do this without having to deal with shipping.If I did yours,we would need to meet up twice,and if we just swapped,then we would meet up once.I could also take the whole car,if you are not able to remove the rear yourself. Just giving you some options.
It would be $900.00 whether I rebuild yours,or swap with mine.
The housing is stripped,hot-tanked,blasted,primed,and painted.
All new timken bearings/seals throught the whole rear.
New Eaton posi unit.
Motive gearset,any ratio.
The rear will be assembled,filled with fluid & additive,and ready to run/install.

Run to Rund

PGH Cutlass, 507Olds has an excellent reputation. You would be ahead to take him up on his offer, imo.

DeltaPace77

Sounds like a deal to me for all that, especially built by someone like Brian who knows what he's doing. Welcome to rear end reality world. If doing a strongly built 455, this is something you're really wanting to do.