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Radiator Paint for 4 Core

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Old May 22nd, 2012, 10:12 AM
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Radiator Paint for 4 Core

I've got a good functioning 4 core rad for my 455 that I'll be installing at summers end. I require to touch up a few major areas and need to know of any good quality paint users have used in the past for the radiator. Thank You.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 10:41 AM
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I just used satin black engine paint. Paint stay stable under high heat conditions.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 11:11 AM
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I have used Eastwood's radiator satin black with good results. It covers well but is thin enough for proper heat transfer. A specialty radiator paint from your local paint shop should work well.
Thick regular paints (esp. POR15) will inhibit heat to air transfer.
Now if you are just touching up the tanks, most any paint would work, but just apply enough to cover the bare spots.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
Now if you are just touching up the tanks, most any paint would work, but just apply enough to cover the bare spots.
X2, but one more thing - make sure that any coolant spills or grease has been cleaned off the surface or the paint will not stay there long. Most of the rad shops will acid dunk so that takes care of most surface junk. Different though if you're doing it yourself.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 02:51 PM
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I just upgraded to a 4 row radiator this past weekend,used the Eastwood gloss black radiator paint. Very happy with the results.
As Rob mentioned regular paint is thicker and will inhibit heat to air transfer.
If touching up the fins,use VERY light coats,the space between the fins will clog up very fast if a thick coat is applied,another reason to use specially designed radiator paint.

* a side note* My coolant temp was cut almost in half by going from a 3 row to 4 row radiator.

Last edited by w-30dreamin; May 22nd, 2012 at 02:54 PM.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 05:14 PM
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Excellent info guys...Eastwood it is. Thank You.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 07:25 PM
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A side note: You can get a fin comb for straightening out the fins on the rad that may have been pushed over by flying debris/large bugs/pressure wash etc. Bent fins reduce the rads ability to cool as effectively
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Radiator-Fin-...ht_3053wt_1026
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Old June 23rd, 2012, 08:36 AM
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I used flat black engine paint. I think flat black radiates heat best. It goes on in nice thin coats and does not use a primer.
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Old June 23rd, 2012, 09:47 AM
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A thin coat and no primer are key here.
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Old June 24th, 2012, 12:14 AM
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Where did you get your radiator?? My 68 442 really needs one. Also, since it has the 455 instead of the 400, better to upgrade or improve the cooling system. I think it is a 3 core but I would rather have a 4 core. Now I will be working on both the 62 Starfire and the 68 442 a little bit at the time. Ironically, even though the 442 needs more work, the parts are easier (also cheaper) to come by. Man, I could buy a ton of stuff from eastwood
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Old June 24th, 2012, 06:53 AM
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I took my old radiator - which is a 4 row Harrison - to a local radiator shop. They were going to rod it out - clean out the core, but as they cleaned it it started to spring leaks. Core was bad. So they ordered a new core and replaced it. Cost $450.

I think you can buy a replacement radiator for about the same $ from Yearone, maybe others as well. There are probably some threads on here about replacements.

I rebuilt/replaced everything in my cooling system except the heater core. I learned a lot about fan clutches and recommend that you try a heavy duty thermal model - Hayden 2747. Same as Imperial 215046, 4-Seasons, etc. The standard duty did not move enough air in my car. I will post some fan clutch info when I get a chance.
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Old June 24th, 2012, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by viper771
Man, I could buy a ton of stuff from eastwood
I like them as well for the most part.
Hopefully you are on thier email list, as the always have some big sale going on. Stock up during the winter when the have thier free shipping, no minimum deals. They also run free shipping various other times throughout the year.
My underhood resto thread reviews many of their popular paints. Most are well worth the price, some are stomped by the $2 walmart brand.
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Old June 24th, 2012, 08:37 AM
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The specific paint I used was Duplicolor DE1634 GM/Chrysler Low Gloss Black ceramic engine enamel from the local auto parts store.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/enginePaint/

I know that some radiator shops use high gloss black instead of flat black, so maybe the difference isn't significant for a car radiator.

In power electronics, we typically use flat black on heatsinks. But we sometimes need every extra degree we can get. And any temp reduction will translate into some reliability improvement for electronics.
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Old June 24th, 2012, 10:18 AM
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I use the cheapest gloss black paint I can buy. That's what the factory did and it worked for them.
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Old June 24th, 2012, 01:37 PM
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Thanks!

Originally Posted by 68442Convertible
I took my old radiator - which is a 4 row Harrison - to a local radiator shop. They were going to rod it out - clean out the core, but as they cleaned it it started to spring leaks. Core was bad. So they ordered a new core and replaced it. Cost $450.

I think you can buy a replacement radiator for about the same $ from Yearone, maybe others as well. There are probably some threads on here about replacements.

I rebuilt/replaced everything in my cooling system except the heater core. I learned a lot about fan clutches and recommend that you try a heavy duty thermal model - Hayden 2747. Same as Imperial 215046, 4-Seasons, etc. The standard duty did not move enough air in my car. I will post some fan clutch info when I get a chance.
Thanks for the info! I will check that out. I was thinking of getting it recored but I think you are right about the price. Most that I have seen are in the 400-500 dollar range and new. I would like to do some cooling system upgrades. I don't think my car even has a fan clutch (since it was a non AC car). Do you need a 6 bladed fan? I still have the orig 4. I plan on putting in a new heater core as well if I am going to change the rad. Might as well do it all at once so I don't have worries later on. Thanks for the info! I will find it very useful
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