Would appreciate some advice or input on the type of radiator I should get for replacement on my 72 Cutlass. My radiator is original and in good condition except for a small leak. I know it will not last forever but is it worth fixing or should I have it replaced with a new one. If new where and what type would you recommend? Also would aluminum be the way to go?

Tanks
Bob

 

If you care about originality, get a new core put in your existing end tanks. If you care about max cooling, get an aluminum radiator. Some of the Chevelle vendors sell aluminum radiators that have stamped end tanks that look very much like the original end tanks.

 

Kinda like asking, if you should get a heart transplant, to cure a chest pain. No way to tell without an in person diagnosis.

Any competent radiator shop, can give you an accurate appraisal in a couple of minutes. Then, if you chose to replace it, the same shop can supply any one you choose.

Norm

 

I would like it to look original and thought about taking out radiator to be repaired. The station where I take it on occasion to be worked on suggested to replace it with a new one. I called a couple of local auto supply stores and they do have a new one with a plastic top which I am not sure that is what I want. The car outside is original except for Weld wheels and is in top shape. The engine has a holly carb. transistor ignition ,with a Eldebrock intake plus a little chrome so it's not stock.

The radiator is original and the leak is very small so I may take it to a radiator shop to be repaired to keep the original look. Thought about putting stop leak in it but heard that may cause other problems.

Thanks for the comments
Bob

 

Considering the changes to the engine you have made, it has lost it's original look already so you might go with the aluminum radiator, although having the original repaired would probably be cheaper.

 

Personally I would have a radiator shop check it out and solder any small holes or cracks causing the leak. (If you are good with soldering plumbing and know exactly where the leaks are, you could do this yourself.) A shop can then pressure test it in a water tank and check for other leaks and fix them, too. After reinstallation, run some of that super cleaner through it as directed and see how it does. I think it needs 8 hours of driving time to clean well. If no leaks and it is clean inside, refill with 50-50 distilled water and antifreeze and see how it does.

The old radiators can last a long time if they are cared for (using distilled water, good antifreeze with rust inhibitors, etc.) Even the worst punctures can be repaired with solder. My old Ford is only on its second radiator. The first one had the fan run into it and shredded it. It was actuallly soldered and lasted a long while after then. Due to the amount of solder on it (which I do NOT recommend), its thermal expansion pattern was was altered and other areas started to crack & weep. I finally replaced it 5 years later.

Since new radiators for the Olds are expensive 300-400+, I would go this route before replacing.