I upgraded to a 80 Amp Alternator(external reg) and was wondering if i need to upgrade to a differant voltage regulator or can i keep the stock one or maybe go with a solid state. And if so any ideas on a new one(part#'s,etc..)
to replace and keep original look. 72 Cutty Vert/350. Any input greatly appreciated!!

 

I googled 66 Olds solid state voltage regulator. Thought of going solid state myself because it's easy/idiot proof (mostly). RockAuto came up in google with regulators for F85's and Toronados. The solid state ones specifically said solid state. For $40 it may be worth a shot.

I don't know if you need one because of the alternator upgrade but I still think it's a good idea.

 

The stock reg should work but the solid state one should also work. The current draw of the upgraded alternator's rotor is what needs to be known to determine what regulator is needed. I suspect an upgrade to 80 amps would have a rotor within the specs of either reg. You may want to ask the person who upgraded it what amp rotor is being used and what the rotors amp draw is.

 

Well i ended up buying a 100 amp internal regulated alternator from Summit along with a wiring harness.So i shouldn't need to cut any wires and i believe my Generator/Idiot light should still work.I couldn't find an external regulator that was rated at 80 amp.The highest i could find while keeping the AC/Delco look was 63 amp.Stellar,i asked Summits Tech about
what you mentioned and it drew a blank from them. I told them i would
be running a 5 channel amp and seatheaters and they felt an 80 amp wasn't suffcient if running my lights and the latter, Who Knows!!

 

Performance wise, you are probably better off with the 100 Amp internal. I don't know what style 100A alt you got but the cs130 will give better output at low rpm than the 10 or 12si style. I am not suprised they did not know what the rotor amp draw was. They don't make the alternators, they just sell them. If you had the alternator upgraded by a local alternator rebuilder, he would know

 

Did you keep the stock mount for your new alternator JJSCUTLASS? Did your car have factory a/c?

Been thinking of upgrading mine, but I'd like to keep the stock factory a/c mount.

 

Not hard... It is amazing how clueless many of these sales guys are about techie stuff. As mentioned, they just sell, and want to!

An 80A would have been plenty unless you are installing mega-watt amps.

My seat heaters draw 4A each on high, 8A for both. Usually the heater fan will not be on high (as the heaters in these cars are fast-roasters).
We take Christmas light cruises with the top down, heater on medium-med high, lights on, seat heaters on, radio on low (200W, 4 ch amp) and the voltage never dropped below 13.5V, even at 1-2 hours at idle. This is with the stock 66A alt with external SS reg.
However even if you have a rear defogger the 80A would have been fine.
The one you have now is plenty big. Make sure you upgrade the appropriate hot wiring to carry the extra current.

 

The case style i upgraded to is the 12si Summit Part#Sum-G1667A.

Then they sold me a wiring set up where i don't need to cut any wires.
Plug and go
Was also told or had read somewhere, that if i do go with internal regulator that my voltage light wouldn't work and with this wiring harness that it would.
Anybody know about that??

KDV - My car doesn't have air but i believe this should be a direct bolt up.
Thats what i was told
My car is in the proces of a restoration and it is not at my house,so now you'll got me wondering if this is a direct bolt on.Gonna ask my guy if he can take a look at it.

So Rob you think i will need to upgrade some wiring to a heavier gauge
gauge?? With my car/ wiring harness in another location i guess i am having a hard time picturing how this all hooks up now with the internal regulator.I should have a heavier hot wire from the alternator to the Battery correct.Is that what i need to upgrade

Thanks for any help

 

I think he means a heavier gauge wire from the back of the alternator to the battery

 

Back of the alternator to the junction block on the horn relay, from the junction block to the battery and from the junction block to all the fuse block or wherever all of those new high current devices will be connected.

 

and don't forget the proper fusible link...


bill

 

Rob, What is the stock Gauge wire and what do you think i need to upgrade to??

Where would the Fusible link be routed??(From what to What?)

I mechanicly inclined but electrical sometimes stumps me

When i first bought this car back in 1988 i remember there being a
place where you could insert a Key mounted in the Front of the Front inner
wheel well. I was thinking it was a simple theft device which cut off power from the battery to the ignition with the turn of a key.Anybody here of this or see one still available.Figured if i doing all this wiring MAW add one

 

i would go with a 10-gauge wire from the back of the alternator, with a 14-gauge fusible link about 6 inches long, connected to the junction block. make sure you provide enough length on the wire to account for engine movement. solder all connections, use high-quality ring tongue terminals, and use self-sealing heat shrink tubing at all soldered joints/connectors.


bill

 

Does a stock 71 CS have an existing Fusible link in the alternator system?
If so, where is it?

I am trying to keep my system stock "looking". I do have low voltage issues
if I turned on the Grid defogger and lights while at traffic stop.
Setup 10dn, external solid state, 63 amp.