I'm currently in the process of pulling the engine and trans as one unit on my 1964 Cutlass:

oZjN0rxl.jpg

As of right now, the only thing left to remove is the transmission cross-member in which I'll then stick a jack under it when its time to hoist. The only issue I have run into is breaking 4 bolts that connect the exhaust manifold together:

LOpq20Vl.jpg
(Any tips on removing the remaining parts of the bolts would be appreciated. Most likely going to try welding nuts to the ends and or blow torch.)


My main question here is, where does one attach the chains from the hoist to the engine on a 330? Here's my engine bellow, I believe the circled area to be one of the factory "hooks" in which the engine was originally installed. I don't see any other spot to connect the chains. Whats the best way to approach this?

9olNtpj.jpg


This will be my setup, I've got a standard hoist and a load leveler that I've used to pull a few engines+trans. The leveler has four chains:
oGXePijl.jpg

I'm imagining I'd mount two of them to the front of the engine on the 330, the circled hook I mentioned above. Where would the other two go ideally?

Thanks

Update:
Well, that was a successful pull. I didn't run into any issues big issues which was unexpected.

One thing I'd recommend that helped make the process clean was double bagging the end of the transmission. All of the transmission fluid was encapsulated and made zero mess. Also covered the carb with a bag to make sure no dirt got in it.

oCNv9S5l.jpg
cOxJF8al.jpg


Now I've got that overwhelming feeling of what to do next (as to be expected.) The main goal is to replace the timing chain and camshaft gear, as well as clean everything as best as possible and reseal as many gaskets as I can.

I'll strongly consider any suggestions as to any "while you're in there jobs"




Thanks for the tips thus far

 

I always use the threaded holes on the back of the heads.

 

I use one of those plates that bolts to the carburetor mount on the intake.

 

Too bad about the manifold bolts. They looked like they were still plenty beefy and should have came out with heat... live and learn... now you will be drillin... at least you have them out and won't be trying to drill out in the car!! I always used a chain and hooked to wherever it was easiest as far as pulling the engine.

 

This. Get a lifting plate with a load leveler, you will never go back to a chain.

It’s really easy to swap engines using just the lift plate. Adding a load leveler makes removing the engine and trans together much easier.

 

If you didn’t see it, there is a bracket that holds the transmission cooler lines to
the frame crossmember under the engine on the passenger side with a 3/8” ? sheet metal screw.
Just remove the screw. Mine was covered in grease and dirt and I didn’t see it at first when I pulled the engine
and trans out of my 64 Vista.
Ron

 

You want to put the lifting bolts in shear, not tension, which is why I don't like carb lifting plates (plus I've had to helicoil too many aluminum intakes). Just use the accessory mounting bolt holes in the ends of the heads. The loop at the front of the intake and the matching hole above the bellhousing were designed to be used with the assembly line lifting fixture. If you attach a chain to that loop, you'll distort it. Ask me how I know...

Here's the factory setup for posterity:

 

These things are useful for lifting everything. From McMaster Carr

 

I find that with the 4 bolts spreading out the weight of a load leveler, it's safe to trust the outer manifold bolts.
It also gives you a really square balance when putting the engine back in.
-peter

 

I have a set of J heads, stacked, top head has cast iron manifold still in place, bungee corded on the outside of my picker for extra counter-weight. I made a longer reach extension with a heavy duty swivel/tilt Clevis as previously shown. This setup works well for 88/98's needing longer reach but helpful on A-bodies so the picker isn't hitting bumper. I love that swivel. Lets a closer hitch than the load leveler because having enough height is important. Jmo

 

Glad you said something, I double checked there yesterday as I suspected there should be something holding that bracket to the body. Although during my checking I concluded there wasn't anything holding it down but mind you it is completely covered in oil and grime. I'll find that screw today, and if you didn't comment I would have had to learn the hard way on that one.

As for motor mounts, is it doable just to unmount them from the engine block itself and leave them attached to the body, does anyone know? Theres so much grime in the way that I could only see the bolts that mount to the block.

 

Leave the mounts on the block and the frame. Remove the one long bolt on each side that goes through the motor mount and the frame attachment pad. One bolt and nut each side.

Good luck!!!

 

Well, that was a successful pull. I didn't run into any issues big issues which was unexpected.

One thing I'd recommend that helped make the process clean was double bagging the end of the transmission. All of the transmission fluid was encapsulated and made zero mess. Also covered the carb with a bag to make sure no dirt got in it.

oCNv9S5l.jpg
cOxJF8al.jpg


Now I've got that overwhelming feeling of what to do next (as to be expected.) The main goal is to replace the timing chain and camshaft gear, as well as clean everything as best as possible and reseal as many gaskets as I can.

I'll strongly consider any suggestions as to any "while you're in there jobs"




Thanks for the tips thus far

 

This is one I specced out a few years ago to pick up V6 3.3Ls or L4 2.5Ls and their transmissions. Industry calls them below the hook lifting device, my company
calls them end effectors.