I may have to replace the radiator in my 66 442, car has some plastic tanked radiator it now..Which brand will fit right, and cool well without spending 600.00? 4 core or the newer two core? Which is more efficient?
I do not have a shroud, heard they are hard to get for 1966. Car is in south florida so its already hot, been running 210 Most of the time.Bottom hose is basically the same temp as top hose, so the radiator Doesn’t appear to be pulling any temperature out of the water
during the cycle..

 

I bought the radiator for my 67 from this ebay seller. Measure EVERYTHING on your existing rad and then look through the offerings in the store. Find one that matches your measurements and there you go. The ebay listings have all measurements from tank size, core size, and even inlet/outlet size. They have fully welded tank rads as well as stamped tanks that look like the factory ones. Once you find the correct size, you can select 2, 3, or 4 row cooling, with or without trans cooler. Very decent prices as well.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odk...tlass&_sacat=0
Here is the one I bought.

 

You may want to buy an original core for either measurement or to have redone, if you want to go that way.

 

Yep the original shrouds do not seem to be durable. This one I pulled out of El Paso car was broken, and missing several pieces. The radiator may? Be savable




, but will be fairly expensive to get out of yard. Price, core, tax, and environmental fee. Plus it is $600 ish now, even here, to refurbish an original radiator. Most small shops have closed, due to ever tightening rules and regulations concerning the chemicals and processes that they use. Most of the ones that survived, now are in the business of selling you a new aluminum job with plastic tanks.

 

Thanks all. Would love to find an original radiator that is repairable for a reasonable amount..along with the 4 blade fan and extension piece.. anyone have something I dont have to take a loan out to buy?.lol If you know of one, share the info please

if not may take have to take Cjsdad advice..

 

You have been doing a good job of trying to make/keep your car original. Why use something that's not OEM now? I have 4 blade fans/spacers and OEM radiators that need recoring. I even have a 4 blade fan that still has the factory 622 stamp which is the last 3 of the part # ink stamped on it. Just trying to give some of what I think is good advice.

Another thing,your car would have came with a 2 row radiator with no cooling line provisions with standard cooling. The tag code for that unit is "FH". The heavy duty cooling unit is a 3 row with a tag code of "FT" with auto trans and a tag code of "FU" for standard shift. Both of these units have cooling line provisions with the standard shift units have block off plugs in the line provisions.

 

Ok, so send me a price on the radiator, fan and spacer.. there is a radiator shop in town, let me call them and find out if they can do a recore still. If i am understanding you correctly, the 3 core should work well and match factory? I can call Sarasota radiator tomorrow and see if they still do recoring..sound good?

 

Mike, I sent you a PM

 

Just an idea for a fan shroud: get a hold of a piece of plastic and a soldering gun and "weld" the cracked shroud back together. Been there done that and it works.

 

You can also repair it with fiberglass matt. I repaired a hole in one that way a couple of years ago. That being said, with a new radiator and 4 blade fan, you may find that you don't need a shroud. My first 66 back in the day did not come with one, and my red one doesn't have one either.

 

Yep another nice way to fix. Several years ago ( they may have improved since) I bought 1 of those fiberglass replacements fit was terrible -I sent it back and that's when I discovered plastic welding.

 

If you are going to try and repair the plastic shroud, you can get one of the plastic welder kits from Harbor Freight or even a big soldering iron and use black zip ties for welding rod. The zip ties are polymer and don't harden as much as the actual plastic when heated to melting temps. Soak them in water for a day or two before using and they will be very soft and flexible. I repaired the plastic fuel tank in my old Dodge pickup that way. Werks fine, lasts long time!

 

I don’t have a shroud

 

That's a great idea, next time I will use this method..