Hello All!

My question today for discussion is "what do you all do (who are in areas where winter is a concern) to winterize your car and "store" it for the winter?"

I just finished mine here in November and I hate to see it put away already but I know it's probably best. What are your wintering routines?

Thanks!

Bryon

 

Try this search (your exact words on the search) and this should cover most anything you might have a question about..... Tedd

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...archid=4016499

 

This is what I do every November.
1. Fill up the tank and put in a bottle of STA-BIL. Then let it run for about 15 minutes to circulate.
2. My Garage is otherwise occupied, so I put her in a rented storage unit
3. This usually caused lots of discussion on the forum regarding the pros and cons; I put her up on jack stands
4. Leave a box of dryer sheets inside to keep the mice away (don't laugh, it works).
5. Start collecting parts to install come springtime.

 

Winter, eh? It's not happening here quite yet.

 

I use mine until we have the 1st snow that they salt the roads for. That usually gets me into Late Dec/Early Jan. I keep it in my attached one car garage that's big enough for the car & not much else. I keep the car clean, put some dryer sheets in it, & Sta-Bil in a full gas tank. I over inflate the tire by a few lbs & put some sticky mouse traps down in the area. When I think its away for good i'll put the cover on.

 

Sounds good!

What parts would be needed to be installed come springtime?

 

This link goes to nowhere, LOL. When you say "your exact words" are you suggesting I put my entire entry in the search bar?

 

I have picked up dynamat and dynaliner for the floors, to lessen the heat that rises from there during the summer, along with a new carpet. I have also bought a replacement rear bumper from Tamraz.

 

-Fresh oil.
-Start it every so often
-Wash n wax chrome & paint.
-Put a good thick car cover on it.
-Coolant mixed to -34*f or 50/50 mix.
-Stabil 360 in the tank with ethanol free gas.
-Park it over thick mil plastic to prevent floor sweat.
-Keep comprehensive insurance coverage on it at all times.
-Keep the garage doors shut to prevent temp and humidity swings.
-Not a bad idea to get the weight off the tires but don't leave the suspension hanging.
-Crack open windows and open the trunk lid. Remove the rubber floor and trunk mats if equipped and anything in the trunk so the floors breath. Some like to put desiccant bags in the interior.
-Disconnect the battery and put a quality tender on it, some like to remove the battery and put it in a safe spot with the tender on it.
-Rodent precautions if needed. Soap bars, dryer sheets, traps, tomcat bricks et al.

 

Don't know what I did wrong, try this.... Tedd

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...r-storage.html

 

Here in Colorado we for sure get our share of cold and snow. I prepped my 77 Cutlass last week by buying new snow tires.

 

Never start it unless it gets to operating temperature - condensation and moisture are not good.

Stabil in the gas tank.

Fresh oil change prior to storage.

Wax and apply protectants.

Desiccant in the trunk, interior and under the car.

Trickle charge the battery once a month.

 

I disagree with the oil change, the first thing done in the spring is an oil change. I usually fog the motor with Kleenflo combustion chamber. It frees up piston rings and cleans really well. I use stabilizer and non ethanol gas. Of course my cars usually sit outside or in an unheated garage, any moisture will be in solid state☺

 

Agreed. I don't start mine unless I plan on driving it. If the majority of engine wear happens at start up, why start it just to start it.

 

I think the idea of oil change before putting it away is the oil can contain corrosives so if you change it before theres less corrosives in your engine, any moisture that may get into the frexh oil over storage will be evaporated the first time the engine is up to temp.

 

I get that but seems like a waste. I guess use cheap oil.

 

I believe dryer sheets in the car is a myth someone started because it made there car smell good.

My experience is that dryer sheets make good material for mouse nests and not much else. Somewhere on this forum I have a post about dryer sheets stuffed into my air cleaner by mice with pictures I couldn't find it to post here but it is for real.... Lost my faith in that myth.... Tedd

Found a related post with a picture of my mouse contamanated Batwing in it. It's rather long but if you get the time I thought it interesting. And by the way most of the mouse mess pictured was farther in the air cleaner and I almost didn't see it.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...er-things.html

 

Re: mice. If you have a W25 hood, tape over the scoop openings.
I also tape over the tailpipes to help keep moisture out,

 

Drive it to heated garage after you feel like it. Or tow/ trailer it like in my case.

 

you want to use these two items just to make sure, especially in a damp climate

STA_BIL Marine 360

https://www.goldeagle.com/product/sta-bil-360-marine/


CRC Engine Stor
http://www.crcindustries.com/product...-oz-06068.html

 

Always wanting to learn new. I always thought fogging oil was designed to be used on the engine cylinder walls, and only for long-term storage. First question is, how are cylinder walls coated with an aerosol; remove spark plugs and spray? Second question is, if that be the proper procedure how are the cylinder walls past the rings coated?

Third and last question, is fogging recommended for "over the winter" storage? I wonder how many guys do it?

 

I think the dryer sheets are effective, but only for a limited time. I use them in my travel trailer but I found they lose their effectiveness after 3or 4 months. I buy the smelliest ones, and if I'm within 15 feet of a shed or trailer I can smell it. I also use cotton ***** soaked w spearmint and peppermint essential oil, and snap traps. Come spring time the snap traps are empty.

In my sheds I use snap traps w peanut butter effective but nasty I throw the whole assembly out once it's done its job

My car is in my garage and haven't seen any rodents in there...yet.

 

Me too

 

this ones for olds 307 and 403...just changed my oil

 

Most on here don't even put 1500 miles on their car through the driving season. Why would you change the oil before putting it up for the winter, only to turn around and drain that oil out in the spring? I don't see the need to fog an engine but do agree with the fuel treatment. Drier sheets make good nesting material. Waxing prior to storage...? Most have waxed their car incessantly throughout the driving season, another coat is useless.

 

I put stabil in with a full tank of gas and drive it for a bit. I disconnect the battery , cover it up . I didn’t put it up on jack stands , but might this year. I cover it up too.

I change my oil in the spring when I get it out. I would rather change the oil after it’s been sitting than before I put it away.

 

I dont change it in the spring just the fall before putting it away ...why would i change it again in the spring ?

 

Fill tank with ethanol free gas, air up tires to 50#, set choke, cover exhaust pipes, add desiccant bags to interior and install breathable cover. Also use mouse/rat bait (dcon) square cubes on garage floor. If varmint nibbles on bait it makes them very thirsty and they leave to find water and then ....

 

Exactly. Put it away clean, it'll still be clean come spring. Why let dirty oil with acids and varnish sit in the pan all winter long? Plus cold oil is a lot harder to fully drain.

 

I would change my oil but I spent all my money on ATF and Antifreeze😁. As said few miles, had to do multiple oil changes with the cam break in. Mine will get throughly warmed up then get the oil drained in spring. I picked up an Olds 350 that sat long enough that the coolant turned to mud. The trans was toast and the oil looked fairly clean but sat for years. The bearings looked very good. If there was any case for acid issues, that would have been it.

 

Have always changed oil in spring, have had my '65 for over forty years. Warm it up and change oil to get rid of any moisture and good for season.

 

So i assume the 50 psi in the tires keeps them from flat spotting? What are you guys thoughts on putting a car on blocks? Al weight off the tires or partial weight off?
Thanks
Steve

 

Over inflating tires is for preventing flat spotting, see your from Texas, might not need to do much with only couple months of winter. Cars up here are of road for five to six months. If you get a nice day the best thing you can do is drive it.

 

I agree with Chris, Steve, I would think your car would only be in the garage for a few weeks. No special winterizing required. I drive mine throughout the winter months when ever the urge rises.

 

I live in Oklahoma so i don't want to winterize my '77 Cutlass. It is kept in a closed garage. Shoot, I want to take it out once in a while. Never on wet roads though. Part of the reason I got it was to "show off".
By the way, I apologize for the reflection of my Neighbor's Subaru on my right rear quarter panel.