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I recently purchased what was said to be an original set of power window kit from a 71 Cutlass Convertible. I checked the marking on the motors and they don’t match the story I was given before buying the kit. One regulator motor is dated ‘77 and looking at the connector it seems to be from a Caddy.
I checked my 71 Service/Fisher Manuals but couldn’t get any information for this issue. I know the remaining regulators/motors are from a ‘69 so they should fit my 71 Cutlass. I need help determining the location of the other 3 regulators. The left motor has a large “B” above year and part#. The right motors have a large “D” and “B” on each of them in the same location as the left side. Does this determine the location? Will any of these regulators fit in the convertible quarter widow locations?
Here are a few pictures of the motors and the markings. How do I know which right side assembly is the rear? One motor has a "B" and the other has a "D" above the date and part number.
I have and have seen a bunch of power window motors. Without getting them out and looking in detail I think they are all pretty much the same as far as the way they mount. Maybe they have different windings to raise and lower bigger or smaller pieces of glass? That is only a guess. So my thinking, which may be flawed, is that as long as it fits on the regulator and works it should be just fine.
I have and have seen a bunch of power window motors. Without getting them out and looking in detail I think they are all pretty much the same as far as the way they mount. Maybe they have different windings to raise and lower bigger or smaller pieces of glass? That is only a guess. So my thinking, which may be flawed, is that as long as it fits on the regulator and works it should be just fine.
Scott, thanks for the reply. The motor dated ‘77 is mounted on a regulator similar to the others. I was trying to determine if the motors with the letters “D” and “B” equates to a specific location. My guess is that “D” is for the left and right front doors. And “B” is for the left and right rear quarter locations, I could be wrong.
Freddy, I may be wrong but I thought the 1977 used a different electrical plug in the motor than the 1971. Do you have the wiring to check the plugs?
John
Freddy, I may be wrong but I thought the 1977 used a different electrical plug in the motor than the 1971. Do you have the wiring to check the plugs?
John
John, you are correct. The ‘77 has a different connector on the motor than the ‘69 motors. I have the connectors for all motors and have tested them. Two motors seem to slightly slip when moving, like it’s missing the gear on the regulator. Is there any instructions on how to tear them down and clean them all? Is the motor gear removable?
I believe the L & R indicate left & right, I don't know what the B & D indicate. I have 4 motors dated 1975 & 76. Two have the L stamping and 2 have the R stamping. The part numbers are different than your's but that could be from the manufacturing date of the motors. Here are pics of my motors:
Are those original motors worth rebuilding and whats involved and who does it? or is it better to buy replacements seeing how they will never be seen and maybe the replacements work better? IDK anybody have any experience?
Im pretty sure the regulators are marked L & R so I'm thinking the motors would be also.
Scrappie:
There are companies that will rebuild the motors if they are burnt up. These motors are a pretty simple design. I measured the current draw on one of the motors and then took it apart to clean the commutator brushes , clean and lubricate the bushings, etc. There was no noticable improvement in motor speed or current draw for all the effort. I think if they work, they work; if they're burnt up, they'll need rebuilding.
I want to add one-touch/auto up/down to my windows, so I'm working on an adaptor plate to use later model motors with reversible windings. These original motors have 2 windings; one for up and one for down with a common ground path through the case. This makes it difficult to control them with one-touch window modules without resorting to multiple relays. When I get it all worked out I'll start a thread and post my results.
