penetrants
penetrants
holy ==== even pb doesn't work on everything. I was wondering from experience from todays chemicals what has worked semi fast for you. I periodically help others and shop supplies are dictated to me. I used to get great results with pb after 2 to 3 days and using a torch is not always the best in all areas or a heat gun they do spark sometimes. t
he chemical you suggest has to work.
he chemical you suggest has to work.
kano who sells it
I have heard about kano who sells it locally, it is almost impossible to find. keep the ideas flowing todays chemicals that are available are not the best.
Last edited by jfb; Mar 21, 2016 at 05:56 PM. Reason: had another thought.
You could make your own kroil just trans fluid and acetone. works well.
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/267...FQIOaQodYNELsQ
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/267...FQIOaQodYNELsQ
The best is the fire wrench, with or without a quench where applicable/approporite. The best chemical is PB Blaster. Castle Thrust is as good as PB. Its thicker so it will cling. Never tried 83hurstguys mix cuz the other 3 always work.
sea foam deep creep...ive freed locked engines that you would never believe could be saved
i used to sell the inductor..used to be a distributor.....its an induction heater...uses magnetics and elctrical energy that super excite the molecules in the metal...they vibrate and bounce off each other... and that action makes it heat to red hot..its incredible for a lot of stuff..no flame..but its really a nut and bolt type thing..same as using a rosebud to heat it up..
induction welding is like a push rod with a ball on the end..magnetics heat it up and a machine forces the ball on the tube and it welds it...same basic idea
really cool..expensive..but for a shop or a serious mo'kanik its an incredible tool...if you can justify 1400 smackers for the deluxe kit...when i sold them they where like 800 then when they got good and popular it almost doubled overnight
now you dont even need to buy from a distributor..you can buy it online..but you get to pay list..lol
i used to sell the inductor..used to be a distributor.....its an induction heater...uses magnetics and elctrical energy that super excite the molecules in the metal...they vibrate and bounce off each other... and that action makes it heat to red hot..its incredible for a lot of stuff..no flame..but its really a nut and bolt type thing..same as using a rosebud to heat it up..
induction welding is like a push rod with a ball on the end..magnetics heat it up and a machine forces the ball on the tube and it welds it...same basic idea
really cool..expensive..but for a shop or a serious mo'kanik its an incredible tool...if you can justify 1400 smackers for the deluxe kit...when i sold them they where like 800 then when they got good and popular it almost doubled overnight
now you dont even need to buy from a distributor..you can buy it online..but you get to pay list..lol
Last edited by marxjunk; Mar 21, 2016 at 08:15 PM.
I've used a torch & then touched a candle to the threads. The wax seeps down in them. I've had good luck with that a few times. You can buy tea light candles at the dollar store & I keep a couple of the in my torch kit.
All of the above.
I personally like KROIL, but I can't tell you that everything else is crap compared to it, as I don't have those data.
Another thing I've heard of and tried once successfully is GumOut (carb cleaner) - it's so thin that it penetrates very deeply, and it lubricates well before it evaporates.
- Eric
I personally like KROIL, but I can't tell you that everything else is crap compared to it, as I don't have those data.
Another thing I've heard of and tried once successfully is GumOut (carb cleaner) - it's so thin that it penetrates very deeply, and it lubricates well before it evaporates.
- Eric
Here is the heat inductor i bought. I got it for 450 . 45 bucks a week for 10 weeks aint too bad. Bought mine through matco.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/m...ntent=99987743
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/m...ntent=99987743
Maybe a lot of you know this already, but only use PB Blaster in a very well ventilated area and avoid direct contact and fumes. Works well, but there is something in it that makes me ill if I inadvertently I breathe any of it - and I've breathed plenty of chemicals in my day.
Maybe a lot of you know this already, but only use PB Blaster in a very well ventilated area and avoid direct contact and fumes. Works well, but there is something in it that makes me ill if I inadvertently I breathe any of it - and I've breathed plenty of chemicals in my day.
Immediately before I use any penetrant, I use Wurth: Rost Off Ice.
The Wurth site says:
"Shrinkage of sprayed parts quickly breaks open micro fine fissures allowing the lubricant to easily penetrate through the toughest rust".
Great thread, I'll be using the acetone and ATF idea when I have to remove my exhaust manifolds from my block.
The Wurth site says:
"Shrinkage of sprayed parts quickly breaks open micro fine fissures allowing the lubricant to easily penetrate through the toughest rust".
Great thread, I'll be using the acetone and ATF idea when I have to remove my exhaust manifolds from my block.
I use CO2 for welding. Opening the bottle upside down gives a blast of liquid CO2. Nasty stuff (and really messes up a regulator .. oops) but COLD. As it warms back up, a douse of 50/50 and a little time. Don't do it often .. I'd rather keep the gas for welding .. but it hasn't failed me yet when I have. Just don't grab those parts with a bare hand. Just because they're not glowing red doesn't mean you won't get a nasty burn.
penetrants
I use CRC power lube, was called mechanics helper. It's worked 95% time i've used it. Much better than PB imho. Used once on plyers that was frozen solid, 5 min later I was working them no problem. NAPA carries it.
CRC 5-56 has been my choice for years. I purchase by the 4 litre.
Where around Chicago can you get kroil it seems according to most as a good choice. I am limited to a chemical contract at work.. My boss makes this choice only. I was using pbnat home around ten years ago when it was still good and within weeks 2to 3 of soaking it released easily 35 year old body mounts and this is a fact. Pb has really changed today that's the epa way today.
Around here, all of he NAPA stores carry KROIL, but you can also get it directly from the company -- kanolabs.com
A 55 gallon drum is only $1,997.
- Eric
A 55 gallon drum is only $1,997.

- Eric
Very interesting thread. At work we use Silli Kroil ?? not sure of the spelling. But it comes in a aerosol can maybe about 11 ounces. Can is orange. I haven't used it on anything really tough but some of the guys swear by it. I wonder if it's the same as the kano kroil some of you mentioned? It has a wintergreen smell. I have found wd 40 is basically just a lubricant and helps a little to unseize a part but not much. PB blaster is pretty good. I have heard of the atf/acetone but never tried it.
Just found this while trying to find KROIL over here in Australia.
This is a cut and past and is not mine, just borrowed from the web.
I bit dated, but...
Looks to be an American mag, as we don't have some of the stuff listed.
From here down
"I grabbed this message straight of another classic bike forum... thought it good to share here too:"
"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop (vol 20 number 2) did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!
Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."
This is a cut and past and is not mine, just borrowed from the web.
I bit dated, but...
Looks to be an American mag, as we don't have some of the stuff listed.
From here down
"I grabbed this message straight of another classic bike forum... thought it good to share here too:"
"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop (vol 20 number 2) did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!
Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."
Last edited by 5998DownUnder; Mar 25, 2016 at 02:10 PM. Reason: Extra
well I will check napa for kroil but I have not seen it there recently when I went in. I have a update on deep creep by sea foam it took 8 to 10 days to break decent rust areas luckily not on my car though. the temp was a average of 50 degrees. I soaked everything every day.
I found a source for kroil around Chicago at eastwood in Alsip around 27.95 a can for the non silica formula. I understand shipping and all but without the trip there is that not about the same price as shipped from kroil corporation. I also re checked napas site no kroil product is listed. I also did not see it there about 10 days ago.


